JeepcoMJ

wow, they actually impounded the MJ? i suppose, defacing a phone booth is probably a federal offense :brows:

my lock cylinders in the 3800 are fron a 95 xj and though are a little smaller than the hole, with a good gasket and a bit of bending on the clip, they mount right up

eau contraire back when we had a good local jeep dealer, I had my parts guy Kevin there run off build sheets on all of our comanches, and one thing that he and I both agreed, was that it seemed odd that my brother's 88 MJ pioneer came with dummy lights. researching further, we found (as stated above) that xj's and mj's offered some small variations between each other on trim packages.

we would need pictures before any of us can really say anything about it...

here's one that I did if you need any reference...just cut the body, cut triangles out of the inner wheel well, extend the wheel well back around 3", and fold the inner wheel well over the edge of the body then weld it back together. that's a 33" tire with something like 2" bastard pack lift Image Not Found Image Not Found more pics yours doesn't look bad...I'd just finish it out.

lol. i only think I can get one from my bro's truck, which has an ax15

as always with jeep items, this is not a 100% set-in-stone prerequisite for being an eliminator or pioneer package. I've had two pioneers now, which had dummy lights from the factory.

the jeep transmissions in cherokees and comanches were 21 spline through mid 1990, with a few exceptions; mid 1990 AW4 automatic transmission went from 21 spline input t-case to 23 spline mid 1989 Ax15 was introduced, and the BA10/5 was phased out. the AX15 will have a 23 spline output, so a 23 spline input on the t-case. the Ba10/5 is a 21 spline output, thus the t-case is 21 spline input. here is the BA10/5, and a link to info about it http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/ba10_5.htm here is the AX-15, and a link about it http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/ax15.htm if you are working on your trans, check your transmission before you buy anything. if you're wrong about which transmission you have... you will not be happy. the easiest way to tell which one it is is that the AX15 is larger, and it has a iron/cast mid-plate between the front and rear housings (it is located just in front of the shifter). the BA10/5 does not have that mid-plate

blacked out the bottom edge today started here and moved on to finish out the rest. then finished out the front clip and blacked it out I also undercoated the frame rails, and installed the CB antenna with wire.

and you are extremely lucky that you didn't die, or kill someone else. the outer shaft end installed in the hub, keeps the hub together. under extreme side-load, or high speeds, it can come apart and you can lose a tire. many wheelers have made the mistake of not installing the stub end of the shaft after breaking their shaft on the trails, and quite a few have wrecked their jeeps or worse.

sorry, i read between the lines on pathkiller's statement... :roll: :nuts:

at least she's not haughty hillary or oafy obama the way the democrats have lied about equality, and discriminated against palin, simply add fire to the fact that i now am DEFINITELY voting republican and yes, I would

he has an early series 2wd front axle beam, or a newer series front axle beam. these beams use a 4wd hub with 4wd brakes, BUT instead of an axleshaft, they have a stub shaft in them. without that stub shaft, the wheel bearing would fall apart and you'd lose the wheel and it could kill you (similarly, this is why you NEVER drive a 4wd jeep without the axleshaft installed).

I think soon just happened now...

bienvenidos a ComancheClub! de donde eres en mexico?

hmm. looks like 4wd so.. the wheel locked up because that is your front end. with all 5 studs bent as they are (you WILL have to have them all replaced), and all of the nuts loose, my bet is that the disc brake C#*@-eyed itself and burned itself into the caliper or such like that. so basically, your brakes are locked, and it is NOT gonna be fun to remove the disc...the wheel studs will have to come out first. the disc and brake pads are junk at the very least. the wheel bearing/hub assembly could be bad from all of the wobbling, but you will not be rebuilding it . you will have to replace it if it does prove to be junk. (if it is 2wd the hub and rotor are one piece, which ride on a spindle with packed and replaceable bearings) now's a good time to do U-joints too if it is 4wd

:D not a CO2 tank. I'm asking my boss (who happens to be a jeeper with a SICK built YJ and thus why i got the job ) about a tank he's got sitting at the shop...he actually has 3 of them, they need mildly refurbished but are not leaky and have locations for about 5 fittings on them...something like 7.5 gallons of air or such held in them, long cylinders. it would be nice to get two of those as they're so low-profile and I can even fit them under the toolbox. fittings too ;)

not entirely true. anyone can do it, whether they make it out alive is a different story. remember, reaction times at speeds MUST be much, much faster to avoid disaster.

It's a good buy. personally, I'd upgrade with an AMC/Buick v8 and turbo 400 with a dana 20 transfercase, then swap the cab for an older "browed" J-series pickup cab. that, or build a top that correctly resembles one...the cabs on the M715's are kinda ugly IMHO.

gah. just got done with my first day (night) at KBI, which is a company that services McDonald's Coca-Cola machines. we're currently on a night schedule because of the massive remodels which are happening here in WI...it's actually not that bad. basically, we're moving and/or replacing the self-serve beverage dispensors, the mocha and coffee dispensors, and the Automatic Beverage Server (ABS) which is located at the second drive-through window. but, after a night of that, I've both realized that i can handle it, and have gotten a newfound respect for plumbers...it is NOT fun running 1/2" ID plastic hose through the ceiling. not too bad though.. next week I'll be out of town working for them...i'm pretty stoked about this job truth be told. i can't wait to get back to school, but this is $$$ in my pocket for now :D (can't wait for day shifts to start up either :brows: )

Not exactly. But anything with a turbo attached has potential. :brows: a whopping 85-ish horsepower, with low to mid 100's in torque. 4.10 gears make it go 65-70mph with 28" tires and a 5 speed, and don't expect to get much faster than that without redlining the turbo. of course, this is if it's in good running order. a head for one lists at 1300 bucks, and that's not even out of a jeep (winnebago lesharo..needs some holes tapped and different springs IIRC). head gasket is $140 at cheapest, with 4 different variations. the turbos are pretty indestructable, but wastegates are a b*tch on them (poor design IMHO). prone to cracking at the starter mount on the bellhousing (aluminum bellhousing so must be professionally repaired). the starters go out constantly, so always have a spare around the house...have your old one rebuilt when it does break, as you cannot really purchase them "new" and they cost twice as much as a rebuilt. replacing them is a 5 hour process (after doing it several times) as you have to dismount the left side of the engine in order to remove it, and there just isn't much room in there. the great thing about them though, is that the fuel system is completely mechanical. the pump is driven by the timing belt, but MUST be kept timed with the motor (for obvious reasons). these are a detonating engine. replace the timing belt as per spec factory mileage...DO NOT EXCEED the mileage as directed by the factory, for the simple fact that the belt going on it WILL cost you thousands. sorry for the thread jack.

no offense, but i'm calling BS until i see pics :eek: :brows: :popcorn: :redX:

clean surfaces, sand them down with fine grit and remove oil residue, clean bolts and studs, install. if you really want to use sealant, go with copper-seal or something along those lines (spray-on). DON'T use RTV as it will just burn off and smell very funny...

it IS necessary to drain coolant on a 2.5 liter 4 cylinder. the coolant does run thorugh the intake manifold.

well, actually it's for opsled (my dad)...but i think if i had say, that truck, that I've actually got enough parts to build two complete diesel comanches...though one would be based out of a new body.