JeepcoMJ

I have thought about this. I am right. it will affect alignment. last time I redid the shaft...last friday, one last thursday, and I've done about 7 others. the oldest style steering shafts are keyed flat on one side of the steering box's input shaft, so you can only install one way. as you get newer (89 or so) they are not keyed...they go in 360 degrees. the proper way to adjust, a combination of methods. it is required to re-align the wheels when centering the steering wheel, if you want to have it be accurate. otherwise, as you turn OUT the drag-link, making it longer, you change the slope of the angle from point A (pitman) to point C (knuckle) and where the interesection is on the drag-link (point B) will push the left wheel out a bit. this will toe you out. likewise, if you turn IN the drag-link, shortening the distance between A and C, you create a sharper slope and it will pull the left wheel in and toe you in more. you must do a combination of tie-rod and drag-link adjustment to get yourself alignment correct, and if you don't have full turns left to right with the wheel meeting in the center, you must adjust the steering column by disconnecting it from the steering box AFTER having centered the steering box at equal turns left to right and vice-versa. if you can't follow that, you probably didn't do to well in geometry.

:huh???: :huh???: :huh???: :huh???: just another way to do it. if you read it it does make sense. adjusting the drag-link to pitman arm length DOES change your alignment by fractions of an inch.

of course, you have to realize that adjusting the drag-link will lengthen or shorten it, slightly changing the angle of the tie-rod as a result. so yes, it WILL affect your alignment. go ask anyplace that aligns trucks for a living. want to fix your steering wheel center? remove the steering shaft from the steering box and turn it accordingly. you can also do this at the firewall. BUT to do it you must disconnect and drop your column and pull it out about 2".

eh, our intercooler suctions pretty well in the right corner. the air tubes leading to it and the open area from the headlight make it work pretty well.

you will have to use the banjo bolt. if you don't, you'll back up the pump and could wreck the pump or injectors by forcing higher pressure through them than the injector pump is allowing. my Dad had the same problem on his 86 2.1 MJ and had to wait 3 weeks for the right part to ship from overseas. he never ordered the part and had our machinest make the proper part for him. -Pat

no, never took delivery on it to begin the work. so, it's still 2wd. but I'm thinking about talking to nick about that and see if he'd be interested in trading the rollbar for my time in swapping to 4wd, and would give me whatever the parts cost (not much) to do it. it's a 91 so high output and it's pretty damn clean.

lol. I don't think she'll be on. all she knows is that it's a pink jeep truck.

:D literally. this was the mj I was doing a 4wd conversion on in trade for a j4k. unfortunately, the owner sold it to nick, the head man at our local gm dealer...he had it painted for his 17 year old daughter (who has no respect for what it is :nuts: )

thank you. I did not know that...I think I will still call it a cross-pin because then you don't name two parts in one assembly the same darn thing :nuts:

hmm. then why should the locker have anything to do with the c-clips. a pinion is installed BEFORE the locker, the locker and pinion entirely different entities and should not have anything to do with the installation procedure for the locker (save, of course, to be removed in order to set gears and such).

lock-out, lock-in. same difference. It's certainly not locking it out, it is to lock it in in low gears. I'm going to do the simpler route and test it...swap the trans. computer.

um. dana 44's aren't c-clip, afaik. I've had mine apart and never seen a c-clip (thank god)

and yet, I still respectfully disagree wit this rule. I don't feel I'm above the rule, but the rule IS the only rule I have ever had a problem with, it's the only forum introducing said rule that I'm on or have seen. so, IF you're going to use a couple of snide jabs and/or directional sarcastic humour, perhaps just say what you mean and don't sugar coat it. At least everyone her knows I'm not going to sugar coat anything...I tell it like I see it. (funny, because I don't dislike you at all). Pete, I'm going to make it simple and follow the rule, but I feel it's just one more piece of baggage to add. I'm not a mod, I bet I will never be, and so I also bet that I'm not privy to the stress of running a growing forum. I just suggest not getting too militaristic, and if you still find the site stressful, find someone with a level head like hornbrod to help out, who actually has done something with the club and can prove a wealth of knowledge regarding the vehicle the site is for.

Motion Offroad is good to be sure, but be aware that some of his kits DO use RC adj. control arms.

IF the RPMs you report are correct your AW4 is never seeing O/D. And if this is a D/D you don't need a torque converter lockup switch. This switch is not a factory "installed in the harness" option in the HO harness; it's an add-on. I'm well aware of the fact that it's an add-on. fellow club-member TNT added it on when he used to wheel the 95 XJ that was my donor. I don't think it's not seeing 4th gear (OD) because I do have shifts from 1-2, 2-3, and 3-4 with that truck. and my speedometer is calibrated at 1mph lower than actual speed, using a 34 tooth speedometer gear and comparing constant and varying speeds to a pair of different brand GPS at the same time. is it possible that it's coming back out of OD? likely, but it would be a shift that I feel. the vehicle is getting 19mpg on the interstate though. I apologize for the thread jack, though hopefully this info will apply.

I would NOT look at the kit you are looking at. Call RC direct, ask for Justin (or it may be Jason...can't remember) and ask him what he can put together for you as a package deal that doesn't include the rear lift but does include shocks for a 4.5" lift + 1" spacers to make a 5.5" lift. also state that you want an adjustable trackbar. you may also decide to upgrade to adj. control arms, which is adviseable but you could get away with the ones that come with the kit for awhile. I have RC 6.5" coils, adj. control arms, front 8000 shocks, rear xj 4.5" 8000 series shocks, and quick disconnects on my shortbed 87 comanche. my trackbar is an Rubicon Express HD trackbar with a reverse thread HEIM joint up top instead of a tie rod end. I SOA'd the rear axle to closely match (it's slightly lower) the 6.5" lift. that whole deal was $250 for coils, RC trackbar and front shocks, $300 shipped for control arms, $free for rear shocks from a friend, and $20 or so for the quick discos used but still good, $60 for the trackbar used in great shape, the spring perches were free but let's say $20 for them, u-bolts were $7 each, 4 needed, and the tabs I used for the shock mounts were $3 each at 4 used. that's $680 invested in the kit, but subtract $100 for the RC trackbar as I put it on a different project instead. then add around 65 bucks for the two YJ brake hoses and the dakota rear hose. so, all told, $645 for the complete lift in my truck at 6.5" lift. and it flexes LIKE MAD.

4 shifts = 4 gears. of course, it may be entirely possible that I don't know how to work the torque converter lockup switch which was already installed in the harness :hmm: :nuts:

hmm. where to start.... the first kit is Old Man Emu... I've not once seen an xj or mj nor any other vehicle running an ome. I've heard almost nothing about them. i've looked at their MJ rear suspension setup and rated it at a FAIL rating. I've looked at their front suspension (as close as I can) and rate it slightly above Rusty's from what I can tell. NONE of that is good in my book. the second kit is a Rough Country lift kit. for the money, you get Add-A-Leafs, no swaybar discos, and a trackbar and swaybar drop. the picture is misleading. of the two, I'd choose Rough Country as a brand, BUT I would call RC direct and order direct instead. I would (for the money) order an XJ 4.5" front kit less rear components (except shocks...which should work for you with new spring perches), brake relocation brackets, and TC drop for around $400 http://roughcountry.com/jeep_xj_4.html then the adj. trackbar for $100 some 1" front spring spacers (cheap) get some spring perches for the rear axle and SOA it (cheap) with new longer u-bolts. (cheap) then buy a set of YJ front brake hose and dodge dakota rear brake hose for $60 or so. this will net you a full 5.5" lift for around $700-ish and allow you to set the proper pinion angle on your rear axle. this method requires a bit of welding, but not bad. you'll be much happier with this than anything else.

SURPRISE!? :banana: :doh: :roll:

did you swap the temp. sender too? it's different.

shouldn't be that hard...it's right next to the oil filter. just like on a 4.0, and there's more room in the engine bay...

mine don't. the xj belts in my mj do.

I completely disagree with auto suggested at 4.56's for a DD. for a moderately daily-driven MJ that DOESN'T see much time on the interstate or at speeds in excess of 65mph, sure. but I run 4.10's and 33's with an extremely clean and well built 4.0 H.O. that's almost brand new yet and an aw-4 automatic. my RPM's at 70 are 2750 and 3000 to 3500 betwen 75 and 85. no, I don't typically run faster than 75 but sometimes you do need to keep up with traffic. 3.73's would be acceptable to keep it in it's power-band at speeds of 60+ mph. so, what's your typical "DD" drive? answer that, and we can give you some more complete answers to gear you to fit your driving style. -Pat

okay. consider number one complaint logged. would take it to pm, but it wouldn't make any difference then. this isn't the military and the rules are starting to get way too strict. I apologize for the means of disagreement, but you have my reason.

I think this should only apply to vendors. sometimes the people may (or may not) be interested and others may become interested. I know I don't mind having people go somewhat off-topic in my threads, and if I don't wish to purchase but others do and keep it to pm's by that point in time, that's just fine IMHO. I believe you once said that sometimes you just don't venture that far south in the forum, maybe others don't see the classifieds too often.