JeepcoMJ

drover her a bit.

nice so far, keep up the good work!

you must have one from a longbed MJ equipped with an ax15 2wd to get this done. realize though, that if you buy a 4wd transmission, you have no way around the system but to at least put the t-case in and put it in 2wd. the 2wd and 4wd transmissions have different output housings and tailshafts, which require completely disassembling the trans to swap out. so if you're going to an ax15 now, you may as well get one in 4wd version with the t-case too. and if you go that option, you will need a longbed MJ 4wd ax15 rear driveshaft. also take into account that the other variable you must throw in is the rear axle...the shafts are also different lengths for these; i.e. if you have 2wd ba10/5 with a dana 35, you need a 2wd ax15 with dana 35 rear driveshaft. likewise, you need to take this into account for the dana 44.

NO. never. there is no bellhousing to put that transmission on the 4.0, and even if there was, the 4.0 would eat through it within a matter of less than 500 miles. don't let anyone tell you otherwise. maybe that's cocky, but I'm telling ya if they tell you otherwise, they're plane wrong.

swear alot and pull out the hack saw.

swear alot and pull out the hack saw.

as discussed in the other identical thread...these are 95+ seats and that thread does not apply to these seats.

it's worth it. you just need to make four 45 degree angle tabs to bolt through to the floor, and then bolt the seat to those. easy.

mine is dual-controlled. when I turn on the a/c, it comes on as it should from factory. it also comes on when the temp. sender says it's too hot. I also have it wired to a relay, with a switch that is supplied with constant power. I figure that way, if/when I over heat on the trail...I can leave the fan on and shut the truck off, and pop the hood.

that's the method to haul it home. as for taking it off, crawl under your truck and locate all 8 bolts. there are four up front, and two towards the middle and two in the rear. you will need a ratcheting wrench to drop the tank...there's no socket in the world big enough to get down the bolt to the nut, and it's a LONG ways to wrench on anything with a plain ratchet. but I have no idea what size it is, so you'll need to find that out.

as I just said, the seats are different. that DIY thread won't help you because these are 95+ seats. for these seats you don't need to change the mounts, you need to build new mounting tabs onto your floor so that they will stay there. 1-10, I'd say a 6 if you're minimally skilled with an angle grinder a drill, some bits, taps, and some bolts. it's about a 2 if you also have a welder.

do you feel like making custom seat mounts? cause those won't bolt in. you can't even put them on a comanche pedistal. it's easy to make the mounts...just saying.

the caps lock reminds me of officer Barbrady from south park.. "OK PEOPLE, MOVE ALONG, THERE'S NOTHIGN TO SEE HERE" just kidding :rotfl2: . welcome to the club

lol, ok. I still wouldn't choose the 2.5. there are plenty of powerful motors out there that would easily pass emissions.

lol. well I would make the project take 3 more years, and go with a buick 3800 personally. it gets better mpg with higher hp and torque than the 2.5 liter which is a perfect bundle IMHO.

i guess. a 3.8 is easy to make pass emissions...I installed a nox catalytic converter and though I'm not running an evap system, I passed with flying colors (when I had to pass). now there are no emissions here for 1996 and older vehicles. even when the state found out I had a 1996 motor in the truck, they couldn't inspect it or require emissions as it's "grandfathered" in, and under collector's insurance.

60 degree so ax4, ax5, t4, and t5 bolt on. why don't you go with a 60 degree gm v6 instead for power and clearance. buick 3800 will fit easily, mate that with a dodge dakota bellhousing to an ax15. or that, with a 4 cylinder xj aw4 and a complete manual shifter setup. that for sure would fit for you. with either of those choices you'd have to build your exhaust manifolds. if you get a 3800 from a supercharged buick/pontiac, I'm sure you'd have conniptions over the speed.

engine? trans? gears? rear axle? interior? we need to know these things to give it a price...it's not all body that makes the truck lol.

yup. I wouldn't say "hack" though...more like nicely trim. up to about where the gas pedal mounts, and up around 3" from the floor on the part that covers the front of the trans. tunnel.

exactly. late 80's early 90's hard to find.

take it out with box cutters, or pull the dash. those are your choices...take them or leave them lol. I remove mine up to the trans hump on every build...they are water traps and rust promotion. you can get new carpet through motion offroad. these are not his products, he's just selling them.

Overhead Console work. I shortened it down by around 15" or so. had to keep it long enough for the keyless entry system reciever to work.. need to pick up some fiberglass resin and fabric tomorrow to finish it off then I will recover it this weekend rear bumper is off hopefully I don't have to drive it much until this weekend...with my luck it would get rear ended lol.

perfectly alright :D and while we're there, maybe I can fire up a generator and plasma cut the dents off your truck for souveniers :clapping: jk man. lookin good. you ever get the center caps?

*shrug* idk it's from a ford supercoupe or something along those lines. the car only had 1500 miles on a crate motor before it was totalled...all I wanted was the s/c so that's what I got before it was scrapped.

lol. I've not thought the supercharger through entirely as of yet mercel. it won't be going on right away with this rebuild...perhaps I'll build another block, or perhaps I'll run stock heads on it when I do go to a s/c setup. we'll see how this setup works for me without the supercharger and a couple years down the road I'll worry about it. important thing is that I got the supercharger, in GREAT shape, oiled it, and packaged it away safely for future use