JeepcoMJ

I may be there. can't commit tho...have so many other things to do. (thank you superbad)

with intake and exhaust manifold removed, I would be able to extract it using a welder and a nut and maybe a torch

*shrug* I got 6.5" out of a 2wd leaf pack plus 1.5" spring perch. that's what I got, and 4wd packs are def. 1" taller at least

lol, I didn't bash you tim. I didn't say anything negative about you, and I acknowledged that I need to modify it. I'm sorry if you took it as a bash towards you. I bent and broke the factory one that was in it, and the HEIM was bad so I just threw it in to get it moving temporarily. rear discs haven't worked their way in yet. didn't even remember putting it in my sig. they're sitting on the shelf, I still need to get the bearing retainer machined.

that depends on your leaf pack, and how high your perches are. I have a 2wd leaf pack, with 1.5" spring perches that are 8.5" long. gave me 6.5" lift in the rear. if I put in a 4wd leaf pack, I'd have around 7.5" to 8" lift in the rear. if I put in 2" spring perches (make sure they are LONG perches around 8 or 9" long to prevent spring-wrap) in the rear then you would gain another half inch over what I have.

you would save time by just purchasing the plates from aj's offroad armor. they're $60 each and are fantastic mounts, all laser cut. at $60 each SHIPPED you can save time and also money because you won't have any scrap left over from mounts, and you don't have to template the holes. then just build your bumper off of them. IIRC they also tie into the steering box bolts on the driver's side of the frame rail. this mount would easily add $100 to what the bumper is worth link to mounts http://www.ajsoffroadarmor.net/Laser_cut.html picture of mounts I haven't purchased from him but he's very successful over on naxja and all of his customers are satisfied. just a suggestion....save you time, but you keep your cost the same so profits would be good. BTW, for a bumper like that, with add-ons like light tabs where people want them, I would ask around $450 plus shipping. your material costs are probably around $175 plus time. you'd still make a decent profit.

it's not that. they need to tie further BACK on the frame rail. consider it this way...the front two bolts for the stock bumper are just through sheet metal, leaving one bolt in a "decent" spot. you can make brackets for the sheet metal piece but it's still not a tow point. however, you can make brackets that go back farther on the frame through the next center hole, and just put one long bolt through it, and be set. I've seen bumpers that only tie through those points get ripped right off while making a recovery...and that's not fun much less being safe.

Got any more pics of your track bar bracket? Did you build it or buy it? Thanks, Willy no idea the brand. got it from tim here on the forum (goes by TNT). it's an absolute piece of crap as are HEIM joint track bars. the hole drilled thorugh it is 1" for the HEIM so I need to fix that so I can actually tighten the pile of crap. it's also single shear, which sucks. basically the only thing it has goin for it is that I can modify it to work for me.

there is a foam seal where the fuse box/bulkhead connector goes through the firewall. there should also be another one where the slave cylinder comes through the firewall. there are also several plugs in the firewall in that area. can you get me a picture from in the engine bay of that area of the firewall? ....I have no leaks from that area in my truck, and I have several holes through the firewall that have no plugs in them anymore...I do not have leaking issues, as I said.

borla header/downpipe/muffler. stock everything else, chopped straight off in the rear. I'll be modifying mine to be closer to the bottom of the bed though. my brother kept it with stock, but in the rear he made it come up through the bedside and out of the passenger side of the bed. he intends to have it through high water and wanted to eliminate back pressure though.

getting better every day. I still can't lift anything heavier than a die grinder for the most part...hurts quite a bit. anyways, (sorry for the crappy pics...camera is on the fritz) don't hate me for this but... still need to bend over pinch weld inside the wheel well, and make a "guard" for the remote reservoir something I said I'd never do...and yes, I know the paint looks choppy over it but it's just rust prevention until I spray bomb the truck this weekend fuzzy pic side view. gonna plate the wheel well areas with a removable plate going around them, and to that plate will be welded the tube flares once I make them (after the paint job) inside the front wheel well. that's dirt, not rust inside the rear wheel well...need to cut the lip out a bit front view of rear wheel well and quarter chop. still need to cut inner fender flush across tailgate from the 3800 is on until it gets painted. thanks to those who put it on for me $#!&ty pics rear view of pass. fender well from bumper. this is completely finished side view of rear wheel well. wire brushed the rust spot on the side and sprayed it to prevent rust. will smooth when I paint it. front wheel well damage on rocker painted over (hit a rock on last wheeling trip I will mock up with 35's once my bro takes them off his parked MJ and helps put them on. the truck will be going to 35" tires before summer is up, and I'll need to regear to 4.88's this winter

it's a 8 or 9mm bolt actually. your floor rot is most likely NOT from water coming through there so much as slave cylinder leaking corrosive brake/clutch fluid down onto your fuse box then dripping below carpet to sit and corrode through floor. this is common. this also means you need to clean your fuse box.

yeah, your fab work is great. you should start selling those....they would sell well. just with 2 fogs instead of 3. 3 makes me think of a mutated frog (no offense)

I disobeyed my cardinal rule and cut up a rust free, almost dent-free factory comanche bed on my "wheeling" rig. this entailed a die grinder with thin wheel, a rolling chair to accomodate my lack of mobility, and now a current lack of rear lower quarters and also much larger wheel wells

THANK GOD! that old one was an eyesore. this new one is absolutely perfect!

I really like the pics of this thing, very nice job. I just wish I could understand what you're saying when you type

last insurance check I got was for $5300 when a semi truck ran over my almost new yamaha YZF600 in 2005 (I put 200 miles on it) after cutting a corner too short at the pool hall, from a road it wasn't supposed to be on. I cashed it but cashed if tor all $10 bills (bank wouldn't do singles) then I brought it to my room, threw it all up in the air, and rolled around in it. then I promptly gathered it up and went in to pay off my loan... :wall:

well, I need to snap some new pics today. this thing is getting a set of 35's, whether sooner or later. so, in light of that I did some work today. I cut out the rear 1/4 panels on the bed up to the first body line, and trimmed the rear wheel wells, as well as raised the rear flares. I'll be doing the front flares this week. this was all made exceptionally tough, since I just had surgery to repair a hernia which ruptured this past week...but with the help of some friends who came and went today, and a little bit of inginuity (plus some light air tools), I didn't have to lift anything heavy, and got to wheel around on a nice cushioned desk chair lol. I can't just sit around....it drives me crazy lol. Anyways, I'm modifying the rear bumper this weekend, depending on how I feel...the corners are probably gonna come off of it so I can taper the bumper down to a 2" end for ground clearance. the "coffin" bumper ends will be salvaged for the 3800. that, or I could just build another bumper too I suppose.

that interior is simply amazing. I love it. that's what I want in the 3800

flip it on it's roof, and throw it on either my tow dolly, wade's trailer, or correy's dad's trailer. or cut it in 3 or 4 pieces...front section, rear section, then cut them from front to back. I've done that before too lol.

I'm out for any of this. surgery is happening thursday morning, and it's going to be a bit more involved than they thought, so I'll be out of work for at least two weeks, and at max. 20lb lifting for around 10 after that....plus no climbing on ladders.

they work very nice in my experience. I just wish that I could find some in steel....I always hate to put aluminum on steel, as it causes corrosion.

I have not given you ANY opinions. only facts

dude, EVERY TIME you say something about lifts, it just proves how little you know. you DO NOT have to relocate, tamper, or redo your exhaust in any way, shape, or form.

the TNT kit is GREAT from what I've read. but the way it mouhts kind of sucks if you plan on being prepared for ANY trail repairs you could possibly need to. what I mean is that the mounts on the body side mounts are on the transmission crossmember...and the tranny x-member is a belly skid. the belly skid means that you cannot replace or service the trans, t-case, or 4x4 shift linkage without removing the body side suspension mounts...which means you have to block the body or the front axle will fall out. also, pulling an engine sucks with it in there...you need to pull out all of the engine mounts so you can drop it down and remove the top bolts.