JeepcoMJ

they were in the VC when Rob took them. if he set it right side up instead of upside down, then they're in his grand cherokee. -Pat

say what? need a little more to the sentence as in to understand who and what your talking about or referring to. O.P's sig.

yours is diesel?

stickshifts? for the 4.0 : AX-15 : late 89-99 for the 2.5 : AX-5 : all years the engines have different bolt patterns Actually, in XJ 84/85 could have a T4 or T5 as an option (tow package) I've only seen 2. T5 is also a possible swap on the 6 (had one in my '83 J10. Not strong enough for a big truck!) I now have a T18A/NP208 in my '82 Honcho I'm pulling to swap in a 304/AX-15 (till I can get a Dodge NV6550 for towing my 5th wheel) in cherokees and comanches it was actually a matter of running out of ax4's/ax5's that resulted in the T4/T5 being installed.

the trees out in my yard are decorated with snow... that's about as far as that goes.

Or I simply have no clue what their rates are. I must hate them, along with Clayton's, Superlift, Zone Offroad, BDS (4.5" & 6"), and all the others I left out since I don't know the rates of.... :dunno: I actually hate Rusty's but I posted those since I know them. :smart: I was poking fun adam. I'll find out their spring rates for you. Should I be asking on different size springs too? IDK if the rate changes with added coils...

So, how's it going my friend? we need you out soon...I'm starting to run out of projects, and I think you know what that means :P

Funny story there..... We were on our way to Hooters.. and the radio station I listen to faded out... So I start punching buttons trying to find something on. My wife had used my ZJ a few times the last week or so and had set my second band to the local Ghetto-Thumper/Pop poo station. When I flipped over to that.. they had an ad for the Kilt..... Our waitress was SO dumb.. that after I told her that we heard the ad on the radio and that is why we were there.. she said they weren't even advertising yet... Other things we learned.... Pat and Aaron fight like an old married couple.... Pat and Aaron REALLY like cheap junkyards.... Pat doesn't like the counter girl at the cheap junkyard. Pat has NO standards.. Jake takes being picked on...REALLY well. Aaron's GF(whose name I can't remember) is really VERY understanding about Jeeper disease...Poor girl wasn't dressed for being in a frozen JY and she made the best of it. and I think made a new friend in dumb waitress hey now....I have standards. one of my jeeps is a 5 speed.... :rotfl2:

Why's that? Does he work for RC or sell their products? He's motion offroad. good products. I think he uses a mixture of parts...IIRC the springs may be RC but I'm not sure on that. I was just commenting on how he completely ignores RC.

taken from zach571 on wi4x4... HELL EXPLAINED BY A CHEMISTRY STUDENT The following is an actual question given on a University of Washington chemistry mid term. The answer by one student was so 'profound' that the professor shared it with colleagues, via the Internet, which is, of course, why we now have the pleasure of enjoying it as well : Bonus Question: Is Hell exothermic (gives off heat) or endothermic (absorbs heat)? =0 A Most of the students wrote proofs of their beliefs using Boyle's Law (gas cools when it expands and heats when it is compressed) or some variant. One student, however, wrote the following: First, we need to know how the mass of Hell is changing in time. So we need to know the rate at which souls are moving into Hell and the rate at which they are leaving. I think that we can safely assume that once a soul gets to Hell, it will not leave. Therefore, no souls are leaving. As for how many souls are entering Hell, let's look at the different religions that exist in the world today. Most of these religions state that if you are not a member of their religion, you will go to Hell. Since there is more than one of these religions and since people do not belong to more than one religion, we can project that all souls go to Hell. With birth and death rates as they are, we can expect the number of souls in Hell to increase exponentially. Now, we look at the rate of change of the volume in Hell because Boyle's Law states that in order for the temperature and pressure in Hell to stay the same, the volume of Hell has to expand proportionately as souls are added. This gives two possibilities: 1. If Hell is expanding at a slower rate than the rate at which souls enter Hell, then the temperature and pressure in Hell will increase until all Hell breaks loose. 2. If Hell is expanding at a rate faster than the increase of souls in Hell, then the temperature and pressure will drop until Hell freezes over. So which is it? If we accept the postulate given to me by Teresa during my Freshman year that, 'It will be a cold day in Hell before I sleep with you,' and take into account the fact that I slept with her last night, then number two must be true, and thus I am sure that Hell is exothermic and has already frozen over. The corollary of this theory is that since Hell has frozen over, it follows that it is not accepting any more souls and is therefore, extinct.......leaving only Heaven, thereby proving the existence of a divine being which explains why, last night, Teresa kept shouting 'Oh my God.' THIS STUDENT RECEIVED AN A+.

I like how Lead_likes to promote his business_Follow neglects to post RC coil spring rates...

84-86 xj/mj 2wd front axles used 4wd knuckles and wheel bearings. then, in 87, they switched to spindle style for 2wd. in the later 90's I've heard some reports that they went back to 4wd style. but...to use a 4x unit bearing and discs, you MUST have the 2wd stub shafts. 4x unit bearings are NOT capable of holding themselves together without a shaft bolted in them. you can't drive without a shaft in them..it WILL seperate, causing the wheel to fall off, and bad things. several jeepers who have broken axle-shafts out wheeling have not thought to keep the outer stub in, and have attempted a drive home without the stub shaft in. at least a couple deaths have resulted. the 2x stub shaft is hard to find. I have a few of them...and they're not going anywhere. I keep them for when I break a ujoint on the trail and need to drive home w/o a shaft...unlike broken 4x4 stubs, they don't have ears on them for ujoints...thus they are centrally balanced, and this will prolong the life of the unit bearing so I won't wreck it on the way home. -Pat

lol. I'm going to bed now, but will post pics in the a.m. dave, I'm ordering an install kit for the d30...It would probably be a good idea since I took some turns quick and she did leak a bit of fluid... maybe an air locker should be involved...

You are just beginning in welding. slow down the pace...this is not a race. I know you go on and on about how you know what you did wrong. in hindsight, you are now aware of it. prior to, you should have already known to do proper prep especially on this project. all is not lost though...you have braces in place. get the proper height plate to do the sides in one go, and plate the sides first. then remove what you have already welded, and cap off the bottom of the frame with something that is the same width as the bottom of the frame. remember...each and every weld is a stress point. that stress point is only as strong as the person who welded it made it....judging by your pictures of your welds, I would say to get some practice on 10 gauge sheet steel before continuing the project, learn how to penetrate and not burn through. then commence with repairs that require as little welding as possible (i.e. don't use multiple strips to accomplish a section...that's no bueno) really, leave the thread. stop saying you know or going over what you know, and just do it. you'll come out of this having learned a great deal both about maturity (pacing yourself, in this case), as well as welding. -Pat

if I didn't have the resources for it (which I do), I would scrap the truck. but to do this repair, the rear axle and springs would come out, the bed would come off, the rear cab supports and rockers and cab corners would come off, then I would cut out that entire section of frame and either A. make a new section to go between the two bad sections out of boxed steel, using fishplating techniques so I would have ZERO vertical welds ..or B. get another MJ with a good section there but a wrecked front section, cut out all the bad on the truck you're working on, and weld in the entire rear frame section from wherever it's bad on yours, all the way back...then plate the entire frame. using strips of metal around the whole frame isn't going to net alot of structural integrity. using the wrong wire to weld is also not going to gain structural integrity. not wire wheeling then grinding down the surface of EVERY weld....that's also not going to reinforce anything. I hope those plates you put in are just temporary so you don't have to use the jackstands.

*sigh*.... I'll never go wheeling with you if you're in that truck, much less ride with. the chances of it totally crumpling in half and costing more than just money are infinite.

....and there is no such thing as "bad wire" when it comes to this. there IS such a thing as a "bad welder"....this of course referring to the person welding, rather than the welder itself. I really don't mean this personally...but you just plain do not have the skill to do this repair.

no, I DON'T trust your welds. there is no proper welding there. there was not enough prep work, and that's not the right way to fix that frame. you should be cutting the frame out where the rust is, and replacing it, sleeving it, and plating all sides. all welds should have fisheyes at the ends especially on the side as vertical welding on ANY frame will cause frame cracking...

Don't take this personally. STOP NOW BEFORE YOU KILL YOURSELF, WHOEVER IS RIDING WITH YOU, AND THE INNOCENT BYSTANDERS ON THE ROAD!!!!! dude...I'm not an expert at welding, but I can tell you now...those welds are NOT good. they're terrible, there's no penetration, they will not hold. you will have that truck break in half at an inoportune moment, and it will result in bad things. ...don't even get me started on that gas tank. ugh.

wade, I have a set of 10 holes here. some paint stripper, polish, and clear coat and you're all set. and they're off of a comanche.

I'll meet @ ur house, but I'll need you to pm me your address. 7am just plain isn't gonna happen on my part though. I'm drinking tonight. maybe 9 or 10...

they are the same manufacturer IIRC. when you call rough country, ask for jason. deal ONLY with jason...he's a great guy. I would NEVER EVER EVER buy anything other than coil springs from Rusty's. I've seen main leafs break, and heard plenty of issues with many of their other products. -Pat

I don't want an ax15. bellhousing and clutch assembly, sure. but that's a ways away, and I'm BROKE...

whowey got me thinking... I have a couple spare e-fans. of the late model as well as early model variety. I'm already running a 95 e-fan straight off a switched relay. it's higher cfm due to the closer blades (and more of them) as well as different pitch of the blades. I would probably run duals of 95-96 fans Jakeman needs a shroud for his mechanical, and I can take the good one off my 87 if I convert to a second e-fan, so that's what I'm thinking of doing... the question is....which do you choose? A) have one fan running off a switched relay, the other running off the factory t-stat sensor... B) have both fans on switched relays C) have one fan on full time running off of a relay supplied ACC power, and one switched relay... which would you choose? this is to be a $0 investment

But if you're talking XJs (which we were), the NVG 3550 wasn't used until the 2000 model year. And Jeep only made an extremely limited run of the 5-speeds at the very end of the 2000 production run. I have one. According to my dealer, it's the only 5-speed 4.0L Cherokee in all of New England. It was on order for something like 8 or 9 months. The factory kept delaying production, I think hoping that those of us who had them on order would get tired of waiting and cancel the orders. Some of us held out, though, and I finally got my 2000 XJ 5-speed. So for Cherokees, the AX-15 is found in late 89 through 1999 Cherokees. But the early ones still had the infernal slave cylinder. Best choice, if you have a choice, is 1994 through 1999 so you get the external slave. However ... free is a very good price -- if it runs. There's gotta be a reason why it was abandoned. that's why I throw the nvg 3550 out the window...I probably won't see (or at least own) one ever. they're almost as rare as a comanche diesel here in the states. yes, 94-99 is the best choice.