krustyballer16

That's almost as good as my cummins, which we talked about. That's great! Not so great on my part but it happens. Indiana heat probably didn't treat you too well either. I'd like to know your mpg on the way home with the car, trailer and 200 lbs of bumper now! (John stopped in my neck of the woods in Indiana to pick up the bumper/swing arm tire carrier I built for him) (( great guy to talk to! Glad we met))

Looked at those too. Not exactly what I want. I think with some measuring I can find one on eBay that john mentioned earlier.

I don't have room for all that stuff and don't wanna mess with it ever leaking or other problems. And air to air is a lot cheaper. For daily driving, air to air is the way to go for me.

Here's a video of the pedal...

Where that is mounted is where my air filter and intake is...something that size but thinner would be ideal.

Those are too big. It has to be skinny, long and wide. Gotta fit behind the radiator. And in/out on the right hand side. The taco taco one would be perfect I think if it was in/out on the same side

Guys on the TDIClub who are doing diesel truck conversions seem to like a "taco-taco" intercoolers. Understand the seller goes by the name "taco-taco" on Ebay. I look for a link if you like? Did that chip happen just after I left meeting you Thursday? I'll check them out. Or if you can easily find the link that'll work. And no, the crack was from the day before I met you. And it split all the way to the center of the glass before I got home that day. It's replaced now. $248 for them to come to my work and replace it. Not bad. And they left a little step stool too. So win win.

And I haven't found an intercooler yet that is an easy fit. So that makes this no egt gauge situation even better. Ha.

The switch on the pedal for the lights? That was an issue a long time ago but I fixed that. Now it's the actual brakes still being on just BARELY and the lift is also on because the pedal doesn't return enough to hit the switch.

On?

Well, made it two weeks and now the pedal is back to sticking on... hmm......

I used herciliner in my Cherokee after it was under water. I didn't notice a difference in road noise. But with no carpet I found a long lost feature that most jeep owners forget about...heated floorboards for winter! Herculiner has lasted good for the past 3 years.

This is why I can't have nice things! Rock from a passing semi came up and hit it. Less than a year old. Went to safelite today and of course EVERY employee was on lunch for the only hour I had free. The crack just keeps getting bigger and bigger!

They're sorta hard to find here, not too bad. As soon as I find a Passat I'll start tear down on my truck for all this stuff.

I'm actually trying to find a 2013+ passat tdi right now!

Exact way I'd do it. I can't just drill and tap. The probe is too long for the manifold so have to add the bung for depth. Or I'll just go after the turbo for now... Even though it's been 2 years without a gauge...

I am so confused at this point... But a 3/8" bolt is 1/32 or about .75mm smaller than an m10 bolt. I doubt jeep even had that tight of tolerances to begin with. And I doubt the 3/8 would pull through the 10mm hole before something else failed... Pictures would maybe help Mr understand what you're trying to do here. And I have a rolled, 1/4", or 6mm, thick backing plate on the wheel well mounts for my "show" bar or light bar or whatever were calling the factory hoop thingy in the bed.

76 mph at 2630 rpms is all she's got!

"I'm sure it doesn't matter..." That sure is a lot of assumptions for somebody who hasn't even seen my truck in person, the bar I'm using etc. IMHO, any increase in the protection of the cab structure especially tied into the frame with the frame brackets is a good thing. The bar I'm using, I called it a "show bar" because I didn't want to open an engineering discussion about the bar...which is plenty stout as seen mocked up in my 87 build... http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=13953 "The mounts aren't needed. If you roll it, that bar isn't gonna do much if it's mounted to the brackets or not." Again you have not seen my bar or engineering... My opinion, bad advice, telling somebody "it don't matter", it's my life and whoever I'm with, there life matters. And "isn't gonna do much" well if I'm tumblin down a mountain, and we have big ones in Montana, I'd rather take what I can get as far as better cab protection for the occupants. Sorry my engineering is better than that.... The "it doesn't matter" part was meant towards the metric/sae. Pretty much a "preference" kinda deal... same size so up to you thing. I used hardened bolts on mine.... And you're right, I have not seen your truck or bar. I read it as "factory roll bar". My bad. But even on an awesome condition mj,and I still don't know if yours is "built" or not, I think there are weaker points than the bed mounts that i/the factory be mounts are tied into. That's just my opinion. Mine is a daily driver so I don't worry about it rolling over and don't rely on the thin tube roll bar to keep the cab from crushing in. That is all I was trying to say.... Cuz I've built 2 sets of factory roll bar tie ins and know how and what they mount to. If not factory then I don't know on yours... That is all.

I'm sure it doesn't matter... I made a set of those brackets for my "roll bar" then when I took the bed off I never put them back on. Just bolted to the bed mounts and thru the wheel well... The mounts aren't needed. If you roll it, that bar isn't gonna do much if it's mounted to the brackets or not.

Putting in after the turbo wouldn't be hard, unbolt the down pipe and drill it and weld the threaded piece on and reinstall... And as for fuel and black smoke...fuel is turned up to not quite half way probably. And not a lot of smoke now. Just when it's lugged down real bad. She runs good!

New master cylinder Saturday... haven't had any issues yet. We'll see.

I have to drill the old "gauge hole" out to fit the probe, then weld a black iron threaded coupler on the manifold so fur probe doesn't bottom out in the manifold. I could put it behind the turbo, which would be easier, but I don't think as accurate. I was driving when I saw your first post, when I got home I the manifold with a temp gun. It read like 380... and turbo was 280-400. Down pipe was 250.... And this was after a hard drive home.

I don't really think I need a tranny temp or exhaust temp gauge...shouldnt be under anymore stress than stock really or any hotter. And I've never done anything with diesels before but I've already got a few more Cummins swaps in my head for when I get the money together. I don't think I'd go with anything other than Cummins, just for their simplicity, until I have a complete understanding of diesels. And thanks. Body work should start in a couple weeks. Anybody know the best rocker replacement panels? Always monitor your EGTs in a turbo diesel!!!! Esp with a standard tranny and a motor that is fully mechanical. It's easy to lug a motor in too high of a gear when you should be downshifting. Running rich like that will dump extra fuel down your exhaust system giving you that "cool" black smoke and if you're unlucky, melted pistons. This is doubly true if you are hauling a load, pulling a trailer, or running bigger tires. 1050 F should be the max you see with an absolute max (never exceed) of 1100F. Sent from atop the porcelain throne. I've got an EGT gauge but haven't put it on. Requires drilling into the manifold and then welding a pipe fitting on. Only way I can figure out a probe to fit...

Didn't know anything about it. But I think I'm busy next weekend. I need to get over you guys' way soon. I'll look at my schedule and let you know.