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I didn't think you could bolt up an 86 trans to a 4.0L??? Are you sure you don't have an 87? (or am I wrong about the first year of the 4.0L?) Any tranny that came behind a 4.0L will bolt on with minimal mods, if any. (Peugot, AW4, AX15)

Whaddabout just throwing in a whole new HO motor? I like mine in my 89 XJ.

It's pretty simple, everything just bolts on. I just finished converting an XJ to 4wd with parts from an MJ. (remember XJs are sprung over & MJs sprung under, so welding is required with an MJ rear end.) The front axle will bolt right in. Just make sure it's the same ratio as your rear axle. You might do some searching around and find a set of axles with a better gear ratio since you're gonna pull the front one out anyways. If you're using a vacuum disconnect front axle, you'll have to eliminate that feature. There are 2 C-clips on the rod that hold the sift fork, you need to remove the one on the side opposite the reservoir, move the fork over & replace the clip. If you're using a solid front axle, no modifications are needed. The tranny & t-case will bolt right in. If yours is an 89 you either have the Peugeot or 2wd AW4. Any year 4wd AW4 should bolt right in. The Peugeot is thought to be a bad tranny & many would suggest going ahead & upgrading to an AX15. I am not sure if there are any modifications necessary besides using the correct pilot bearing to making this upgrade. (search Peugeot to AX15 swap for more on this) The front driveshaft needs to be from a Jeep with the same transmission, the rear (unless you find a 4wd MJ rear shaft) will have to be cut down to the correct length. The t-case linkage has holes predrilled (rubber plugs are in the holes now) so, grab this off the same vehicle you take the tranny from. The 4wd shift handle is the same way. The console comes up by removing a few screws (faceplates pop out) Are you planning on lifting this MJ? I would do it at the same time as this swap, cause you're gonna have the front end off anyways. Also, pull the old 2wd hubs & stub shafts off the 2wd axle. The hubs are the same as 4wd hubs & the stub shafts make great trail fixers if you don't have a set of spare axleshafts. (You can't drive on a broke shaft or drive w/o an axleshaft. But, you can stuff a rag in the shaft hole & bolt a stub shaft in to get you home.)

I think the hitch insert is going to be the best way to go. I'm sure you could take it out & put it back in with tha canoe still on top if it was absolutely necessary to let the tailgate down. Anything tha tmounted to the bed would be larger to carry/store. A hitch contraption would just be a "T" with a tail. This might be the dumbest idea ever, but has anyone ever put a gutter-mount XJ roof rack on am MJ cab? I carry my canoe on my Surco rack:

The biggest worry would be the pilot bearing fitment. I believe there is a pilot bearing for another Jeep that works. NAXJA.org should have a write-up handy in their search.

My NAPA/Advance/Auto Zone didn't have them either. I went to another local parts store & they had them though in varying lengths. A parts store like Smithe, Savage, etc should have them. (The stores that do machining, turning, etc) Get a long one to line up the leaves & cut off the excess once it's snugged down.

Congrats! It's good to win a big contest like this, I was JeepForum.com Cherokee of the Year: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=349087

Not all are the same, but in a 91 they should be the same. I have a 91 2wd 5-speed (in great shape) pulled & ready to go, but you're a little far away... we just did a 4wd conversion on a 91 XJ.

I would keep the lightbar, that MJ sure looks clean, all of em up here are ate up by rust. I'd put rectangular lights on the rollbar though. Round lights look odd on boxy MJ/XJs to me.

On the condenser side? I don't think there's much room withall the header panel in there. I have a Renix electrical system, with a HO motor & open rad. I run the e-fan on a switch if I'm sitting & idling or trail-riding. otherwise I never switch it on & my temps never go over 210. I plan on going to dual-electric fans soon. I'm using a stock GC priamary e-fan & the oem XJ e-fan. The primary e-fan will be on with ignition (with a kill switch for water crossings) & the secondary e-fan will just be on a toggle switch. Hopefully this improves my MPG & will help on water crossings.

On my XJ it's always been finicky about engaging that front disco also, normally I'd just pull a line off, then plug it back in & everything would be fine. Yes, the light only seems to indiicate that the vacuum disco axle is functioning "correctly". Recently my light has stayed on all the time even though my axle disconnects.... Last night we finished installing a 4wd conversion on an XJ. We used an MJ disco D30 on a 91 XJ (no vacuum operation). We fixed the front disco axle by doing the following: Remove shift fork assembly from axle (catch grease) Remove c-clip from rod on side of fork away from vacuum diaphram. Slide fork over & slide rod opposite way (towards diaphram) until you see the c-clip's notch on the rod again. Replace c-clip in notch. Shift fork cannot move now.

Sounds like the starter relay or starter itself if it's not even cranking. Or the CPS if it's cranking but not starting.

Not dure if this'd work on an MJ, but on my old FSJ I got some Garage Door weatherstrip from Lowes. I got a roll for ~$15 & did both doors.

I believe you have to replace the fenders if you put the new header panel on, cause it lines up differently. I'd just keep it the way it is now.

Why does everyone keep tempting me with ideas to combine my XJ & MJ into 1?!?!?!?! It looks so fun, but both of mine drive to well to do this...

I am not sure if I'll be there or not, but this is a ride primarily for XJ/MJ enthusiasts: http://greatlakesxj.activeboard.com/for ... D=10182252

Here are pics from when a few members of my local club went there: http://www.terrainstompers.com/forum/vi ... light=rock Here are some more pics from another run there from another "club": http://www.offroadohio.com/forums/showt ... t=big+rock General consensus was it needs work/time to be a good place I believe. The "Hills N Hollerz" park looks interesting also, but it's a good ways for us notherners,

I haven't been driving my MJ as much since the cold hit here in Ohio since the heater doesn't blow hot. I would assume it has a thermostat (though this isnt verified & it only has idiot lights, not temp guage), but letting it sit & run does nothing for making it hotter. I would assume this means it's not the thermostat. It originally had a heater control valve, but it was bypassed at some time by the PO, it is just hanging under the hood. All hoses are (supposedly) hooked up correctly. The heater controls appear to be working correctly. It has 3 or 4 different speeds/settings for blowing that work & it switches from floor/vent/defroster fine. Does this mean a clogged heater core or is there another valve somewhere that could be bad?

I think someone here is parting out an 86, wouldn't it have that part?

Yes, the Krylon Fusion peels WAY less than regular Krylon on plastics & chrome areas. It's about the same on regular areas. Trees catch it pretty good, but it also take less to touch up if necessary. This rustoleum seems to chip pretty bad from what I've seen so far on my MJ, but it was applied in 30-40º temps...

I've painted my XJ a few times now with spray paint, painted a couple other Jeeps, & just finished painting my MJ with spray paint. Yes, use one of those guns shown above & make sure what you're painting is clean. Tape off or remove anything plastic & your lights, paint everything else. Scrape the windows afterwards with a flat razor blade. You can use Rustoleum canned Gloss black paint for doing the trim/flares after the jeep is painted. I've even painted the old seats on my FSJ with Rustoleum canned paint, lol. I have tried to always use Krylon paint, as it seems to run a LOT less than the others. A quick tip is to get a few (around 5 to 10) cans of cheapie flat paint close to your final color to lay a good base coat of "primer" down. This'll cut down on the amount of expensive (Krylon fusion runs around $/can) cans you buy/use. I painted my XJ yellow with Krylon Gloss yellow: I repainted it 1.5 years later: It was hard to keep fixing the yellow paint (over blue original paint) after each wheeling trip, plus I added a snorkle & faded flares, so I painted it all with Krylon Fusion (for plastics) Gloss Black: This is it 10 months later: I've also painted this CJ with Krylon (cherry?) Gloss Red: I painted my old FSJ with Krylon Italian Olive: I just painted my MJ with a different kind of paint I got at Walmart. It's a metallic black/gray color with shiny flakes in it. It's not a "gloss" paint, but it shines nice. Right now it's covered in road salt though or I'd take a photo.

I'm gonna say bad fuel pump also or possibly clogged cat.

So, did you put a base coat of green over everything, then paint the tan/gray over that in the appropriate areas?

When I've had this relay go out in the past it doesn't cause any noises whatsoever. You just turn the key & "nothing".

Is there a difference between the XJ mounting brackets & MJ mounting brackets? I'll have a nice bumper out for sale for XJs soon, but I haven't checked it against my MJ.