shelbyluvv

Thanks for the help getting me the parts. No big deal on the bottom parts being the wrong color. I have to paint a lot of the parts agate to match the dash and door panels anyhow. I was going to keep the 97+ XJ seats but the ZJ seats are sooo comfy that the XJ seats do not compare to them. Plus they have a power lumbar in them which is very nice for long trips.

I got a stock D35 with 3:55s for you here in GA for FREE! Come get it.

Thanks for the help Don.

A donor is a vehicle used for parts. I bought a 97 Cherokee to use as a donor for my build. Look for the "Another new guy" thread in the Projects forum. Johnnyc has done the door mod and so has JBhill.

After tons of research I have discovered a few things abot the 97 XJ fuel sender along with a 97 TJ sender. I was going to use the XJ tank in the truck but there is no way it is going to fit and not hit the driveshaft. Then I got to thinking about a TJ tank and sender. It is long and skinny like a MJ tank and could easily be fit in the stock location. I am not sure if the TJ sender will work the 97 XJ gauge correctly though. The values for the XJ are, 20 ohm (full) and 270 ohm (empty) The values for the TJ are, 20 ohm (full) and 220 (empty) If I am thinking correctly, I will run out of gas before the needle hits the E mark! The wiring is plug and play from the XJ harness to the TJ sender wich is a good thing. But, will the 50 ohm difference throw my gauge all silly? I don't want to run out of gas and still have the gauge reading 1/4 tank. Is there a way to bring the TJ's value closer to the XJs when it gets down to empty?

Since we are both from the Pittsburgh area I think we will have to keep another yank around these parts!

Introduce yourselves here and let us know the who, what, and where. My name is Bo Kennedy, I own a 89 short box, I live in Acworth Ga and work in Marietta GA on Dobbins Air Reserve Base.

I guess the SE areas need to be set. What do ya'll think about using these states as the SE areas, Georgia Alabama Mississippi Florida Virgina North Carolina South Carolina Tennesee Lousianna Kentucky could be included as well but the seem to be closer to the Great Planes side of things. Thoughts?

Compliments of Johnnyc

Pat, I do not read every single thread on here. I know I should. I have been crazy busy playing Marine and have not been on that much. Goblazer and Multi are not the only ones guilty of it. Please don't think that we are on a witch hunt for you fellas. I have seen Wahoo and CW post things as well as a bunch of others here that has rubbed me the wrong way. I like I said, I don't want to get into the whole Shelbylube, blah blah blah, my post thing again. It sucked the last time and the thread still turned out the way I knew it would. :dunno: If Pete asks me too, I will clean up the posts or enforce his visions further. But, it is his board and he has final say.

Pete, turn me loose! I will nuke every distastefull post I see. Just like I did in Goblazers build thread. I have seen the change lately as well. I thought maybe it was just me being anal again, but I guess not.

Fellas. Your voices are heard. I will bring it up with Pete and Eagle to see what they what to do. I do not want to start another flamefest because I mod with an "iron fist". But I agree with the both of you that these 2 and others need to stop their antics.

Maybe it is the redneck in me but... I really like that truck!

:agree: With both of you!

What you have is a vacuum leak its causing the air to come out the defrosters under hard acceleration and return to normal when not giving it the gas ,it only sounds like its changing speed. That also accounts for your stumble and poor fuel mileage. It can be any thing from a bad brake booster to cracked plastic vacuum lines to a bad A/C control panel.If it was a charging problem it would more likely have the opposite symptoms. I would check and see if the line is hooked up to the "blimp" under the front bumper. They tend to rot off after awhile.

I would like to see pics of the tank install. Are you leaving it in the factory location or moving it to the bed?

I am going to try and run some pre 96 flares up front. I think I can trim the bumper caps to follow the flares and be totally un-noticeable. I toyed with the idea of cutting and modding 97+ flares for the rear again, like I did to Betty, but it is just a royal PIA.

I got some progress made the last few days... finally! I got the ZJ seats and 2 door tilt mechanisms installed. See the write up here http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=16295 OH YEAH... THEY TILT FORWARD LIKE STOCK!!! I got the 97's fire wall cut out and modded to cover the holes for the steering and brake booster. I also got the big booster mounted up. Fabbed up new brake lines from the master to the prop valve. Got most of the 97's stuff mounted up to the fender wells. Since I forgot to post pics of the D30 swap and lift here ya go. And here are some day time pics of the truck.

Fellas, I cleaned this post up. Please keep things friendly and CLEAN.

I cut the drivers side firewall out of the 97 XJ and modified it to cover the stock holes in the MJs firewall. It came out looking factory. Now I can run the wiring.

Big Horns all day long. I have Mud Dawgs (same tire, different name) on my WJ. It is the best tire I have ever had.

Gently pull the power lumbar wiring out of the seat bottom. Stand the seat back up on the head rest and pull the zipper that is tucked in on BOTH sides out of the seat. Un-zip it all the way. Reach in the seat and gently pull the velcro seam apart. Now pull the material down on the side about 10" or so to expose the other 2 bolts. Once removed install the XJ tilt and bolt it down. Re-assemble the rest off the seat in reverse order. Once it is done you can put the XJ seat skirts on. They will bolt on in the factory location. I wanted the power lumbar to work so I cut the wiring out of the factory harness and wired into my XJ harness. It only takes a power and a ground to run the lumbar. Now I had to find a home for the swtich... This looks like a good place. Right next to the seat skirt. Hidden from sight. Here are the seats in the truck. and tilted forward like factory! I have to give a BIG thanks to Patrick (phenryiv1) for getting me the elusive 2 door tilts. Thanks again!

I saw a write-up somewhere on how to make ZJ or WJ seats tilt forward. I thought I would take a crack at it. First off, This will only work if you have 97+ XJ seat brackets installed in your rig. With that out of the way lets get down to business. You will need these parts, ZJ or WJ seats 97+ XJ seat sliders 97+ XJ seat skirts 97+ XJ 2 DOOR tilt mechanisms seats sliders (drivers on mine is power) skirts 2 door tilt mechanisms Start by removing the factory skirts and wiring from the seats Now remove the factory seat belts. You will reuse your stock ones here. Unbolt the factory sliders from the seat It should look like this when it is done. Bolt your XJ sliders on the new seats. They truely directly bolt on. My seats had power recline motors. Not all do but it does not matter. This will work with either seat. Remove the front bolt for the bracket. The next bolt may be hidden behind the motor. Don't fear! Just stick a small standard screwdriver in there and turn, turn turn... Once you turn it far enough you can get the bolt out. Now that both the bolts are out you need to remove the Torx bolt holding the seat back on the other side. Once that is done you shold have this.

That looks like a Ruff Stuff swap kit. If it is you are going to have to drill the hole out for the top plate to 9/16ths. I just did the SOA last night on my truck. EDIT: You also have to notch or drill a hole in the perches for your brake lines to go through.

I got to looking and 2 tones just don't look right on a shortty. If it was a long box then I would be doing a 2 tone. After I sale this one I will be building another one, but it will be a long box.