BLHTAZ

The Renix FSM I have posted in the DIY forum has all the testing procedures in it if you haven't looked at that too. Make sure you have done all the proper tests...the right way, on the fuel system before dropping the tank. You likely know this, but...if it's a pump problem you don't have to drop the tank to get at it.

Have you removed the IAC and VERY thoroughly cleaned it and the throttle body? If it is carboned up and clogged, it typically causes a high idle, but if it's bad enough it could restrict air flow and cause it to be low. There is nothing clogging or blocking your primary air intake through the air filter is there? Are all vacuum lines in place and clear?

I don't have a pic of it handy right now, but it is about the 11:00 position on the bellhousing and, as Eagle said, has two bolts that hold it in place. Please don't take this wrong...it's just an observation and not meant as anything but that. :thumbsup: It's kind of scary, and may tell a story alone, that you have to ask for pics of it when you just had the tranny out and should be easily familiar with what it is and where it is as you would have to deal with it when removing and installing the tranny ;) .

Sweet!! I don't want to live in stuff like that ever again, but I sure would love to go play in it for a day. What is the weird buggy looking thing in this video...??

Yea...that fuel pressure is way low as in about half of what it should be.

2H = Street driving 4H = Driving at higher speeds when extra traction is needed...NEVER ON DRY PAVEMENT N = Neutral...nothing works 4L = Low range for off road only. Low speed...high torque Yes...that is the pattern you will have. The 231 T-Case is a shift on the fly (up to 50 mph I believe) case, but it is not recommended that you do it unless you have no choice as it is not easy in most cases and you can cause severe damamge if you do it wrong.

:agree: CPS is definitely on the top of the list here...

Strange that you bring this up. Our YJ has been doing pretty much the same thing and I have had the alternator tested twice to be good, I have replaced the battery with a brand new Optima Yellow Top, ran all of the tests recommended in the manual and I am now thinking that the PCM needs to be replaced as it (the PCM) is the voltage regulator and the "check engine" light stays on all the time. Don't know if the Nissan's voltage is regulated through the PCM, but that may be something to look in to :dunno:

While I think all of them are hilarious...I think this is most likely it :thumbsup: . Good work JT :yes:

:agree: I stay away from the hard stuff 'casue -- Liquor Makes Me Brave -- :eek: :yes: :shake:

TPS test is here FSM is here It sounds more like a timing issue to me, but who knows with these trucks... ;)

SW2 is correct...you will have to change the carriers to go a lower gear than the 3.55's :thumbsup: Yes...4.10 will be god for the 33's.

Nice...I hope they work well for you. I gave up on it and found some aftermarket ones that worked well for me.

OK...WOW...I take it back. The one for Cruise & Intermittent retails at $69. The one for just intermittent w/o cruise is $29... :shake: The $29 one is the one that I used to sell a lot of and remembered.

There's a ton of them on Ebay. Any pre-airbag GM stalk will work. HERE'S an example. They are still available at the dealership too for not a lot more than that.

Check it out REAL good, but if it truly is solid, then it is worth it. Be sure to look under the floor coverings thoroughly for rusted floor pans, check the bottoms of the doors, the rocker panels, the bed sides above the rear wheels, etc, etc...

Welcome to the Club... :cheers: CLICK HERE for the picture posting "How To".

The 4.7L is a great engine as I have it in my 2002 Ram and love it, but you don't want the '99 model WJ as Eagle has stated. The engine was not the problem in '99...but, most everything else was and there are a lot of things that are quite hard to get for them as they were only made that one year and then changed to fix the bugs of the new model. I can't count how many times ai tried to find things for the '99 WJ while I was at the dealership and ran in to discontinued or back-ordered issues.

:agree:

The TPS is possible. I posted the testing procedure in the DIY forum HERE

The stalk (lever) should come out of the column with little effort. Standing outside the truck, grasp the stalk, push in justa little and rotate it clockwise and then it should slide right out. There is just a little tab on the end of the shaft that locks in to the switch assembly inside the colomn. You will have to disassemble the column if the actual turn signal switch needs to be replaced though. Mine doesn't have cruise so I don't know what is involved with getting the wires out with the stalk though... :dunno:

As of 3:40PM in Orlando... Temperature: 70.1°F | Humidity: 43% | Pressure: 30.20in ( Falling) | Conditions: Scattered Clouds | Wind Direction: SSE | Wind Speed: 0.0mph

I did now... :dunno: :hmm: . Maybe I just don't understand the results, but this looks slow to me...

I still need to get that post updated as they have changed things a little bit, but that should get you working :thumbsup:

I was also thinking exhaust restriction as Wildman said. The loose manifolds would cause a high idle problem from sucking in too much air if the intake manifold was leaking.