BLHTAZ

With the 5.2L (318) engine...it should be a 46RE. If you have a VIN number on it, post or PM me the last 9 digits and I will tell you what it has.

Changing to the electronic will take a lot of work. You can still get the speedo cables at the dealership if you can't find a good used one...you just need to know if it has cruise control or not. I just did the swap to the full gauge set up on mine. It is not hard except for getting that speedo cable off of the old one as I too broke it, but I was able to get it back in without needing a new cable. My speedo has a little woble to it, so I am going to get a new cable sometime...but, it works.

My boys... :cheers:

Understood...that is why I was offering it as "my opinion". :D

If he does, I wouldn't mind posting it up on the strokers forum. I just got off of the phone with him. He does have them, but they are posted on his site in sets of 8 right now. He is going to get them posted in sets of 6 within the next 48 hours or so and let me know when they are ready. I will let you know ASAP when they are up on the site for you.

Not badmouthing it...just answering the question as asked ;) . He asked if the price was too much and has been answered :cheers: .

I was serious on this post. Just havin' some fun after that... :cheers: . It is still my opinion that it is a $750 truck.

But it's the RARE Laredo! :rotfl2: OK...I'll go $751... :laughin:

You need to find a good quality gasket in the aftermarket and do like Pete said. The factory specs are to use nothing but silicone and you can not even get a gasket at the dealer as they are not made for it.

I wouldn't go more than $750 on a 2WD.

Actually...I believe he does have some of the 24# available now...but in very limited quantity. I will check with him on those tonight. I had no problem with any of the clips on mine.

Yep...that's why I said give it a shot first...it can't hurt and if it works for a while to get you through, that's all the better ;) .

It's just the PITA thing for me. There is no real performance advantage or anything like that other than being a little more dependable IMO. Issues on the trail/road are easier to fix with an open system too.

The Marvel trick is typically to cause "gaskets" to swell a little and stop them from leaking. You could try it if you want as it would not hurt anything, but that seal is rubber and when it starts leaking...it just keeps getting worse. You do not have to remove the tranny to do that job...just the oil pan so you will need a pan gasket and a seal. If you are doing it yourself for the first time you will need to be VERY aware of how the seal is oriented. If yuo put it in wrong, your leak will be worse than before.

Yes...they typically will help with MPG, smoother idle, easier start and maybe even a little more power. It's not going to give you a 5 MPG increase, but you could see 1-2 MPG...and for the price that would be worth it.

Synthetic is definitley the way to go. I have been an AMSOIL user for over 10 years now, and and AMSOIL dealer for 6 years and I use it in everything I own. The only thing that I have not put it in so far is the MJ as it is not a good thing to put in a high mileage engine that has used conventional oil all it's life as it will cause problems with leaks and the "cleaning" ability described above can actually cause oil journals to clog and restrict/block oil flow if there is a sludge build up inside. I am sorry to hear of your bad experience with Mobil 1 hornbrod, but I can assure you that it's not the oils fault. It is a problem with your seal...and yes, I have seen rear mains go in 2-3 years many times. I'm sure you know it, but I'll say it anyway... ;) It is a known problem with 4.0L engines. I have seen many rear mains replaced under warranty with less than a years use :roll: .

I got the TS195 switch and installed it last night. Now all I have to do is get the engine hot enought to make sure it works as it is supposed to.

Here is the latest info from Wojtek at Precision Auto Injectors. I have spent several hours assisting him in coming up with these applications and they are accurate to the best of our combined ability. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I will create all separate ads to make things easy on my website. The injectors that are being sold now fit the following vehicles: Jeep 1989-95 5.2L Jeep 1987-95 4.0L Jeep 1991-95 2.5L The ad I have now says they also fit 1996-1998 but it will run lean so I will be changing them and if anyone purchased them please contact me I will send you the correct ones free of charge with a pre-paid label to send the original ones back. Jeep 1996-98 5.2/5.9 Jeep 1996-98 4.0 Jeep 1996-2002 2.5L I will be creating the ads by the end of the week on my website but anyone that wants to purchase can PM Brent with your email address to pass on to me and I'll send you an invoice. They have a pricing of $85 for the 2.5L, $115 for 4.0L, and $150 for 5.2/5.9L. These prices are shipped and are discounted as when I'm done on the website they will be all higher. I also have injectors fit the 4.0L, 5.2L, 5.9L engines in 99+ vehicles. I have a REALLY limited amount of these injectors (only 16 at the moment) and the pricing is as followed: $140 for 4.0L and $175 5.2L/5.9L applications. Once again these are shipped and in the future I would love to lower these prices but I purchased these cores for top dollar just to have them available to members and will encourage core returns highly to make them available to others. Thanks for all of your orders so far... Wojtek

Buy it Now price: US $4,800.00 :nuts: :eek: That is just a little crazy, but who knows...he may find the right sucker. Yes, if the shocks are gas charged you can turn them upside down, but hydraulics will stop working if you do that to them.

Well...I could not come up with a switch today as nobody carried, nor could the get the Borg Warner part, but I did manage to cross reference it to a Standard part# TS195 and got that ordered for tomorrow. Tina drove it today and said it stayed under 200 at all times without the fan working 8) ...of course it was pretty cool here today with highs only in the mid 60's.

I was not aware that the switch had temp markings on it, but yes, I am now aware that the one in that pic is not going to do the job. I am going to pick up the TFS19 today. If I had no other choice, I would wire in a manual switch, but I much prefer to have things work as intended. I guess in my research prior to doing this I did not take in to account the fact that the newer style system has the ECU & relay set-up, but thanks to the great group here...it seems that my ignorance has been overcome ;) :cheers: . Thanks again for all the help. I'll post results ASAP, but the wife will be sriving it today, so it will be late tonight before I can touch it to swap the switch.

Very cool 8) . Looks like a productive day.

The Commander is in your list... "XK" Compass & Patriot are the same... "MK" I work at a Jeep dealership -- Parts Dept. ;) You should also edit out the "LJ" as that is not a body code. It's just a nickname for Long Jeep. The Unlimited is still a TJ.

Very good. It appears the the local Advance Auto carries the BW TFS19 so I will be making a stop there tomorrow. The picture looks like it should even have the correct threads to fit the hole.

OK...I guess I am going to do a test that came to mind just now. I am going to take it [sensor/switch] out of the housing, hold it with a long set of channel locks and heat it with my little hand held propane torch to see if the fan comes on. Anyone know a reason that this will not tell the story?? I know it will not tell me the temp that it activates at, but it should answer the question about it's ability to do the job.