BLHTAZ

OK...that makes sense. I did use the "sensor" for the newer engines, so it will not activate the fan. Time for a little research.

I got it on eBay from a company in New Jersey called Radiator Express. I got it for a little less than $150 including shipping. The price has gone up a little bit, but here is one of their current listings... Click Here

I think he is wanting lights that will provide illumination inside the bed...not just behind the truck ;) .

That must be the wires that are inside the loom that I can't see. The wires that I can see are both black which are the wires that were attached to the old switch in the radiator. I just cut them off of the old switch and spliced the new connector on to them. Thanks for that info.. I will definitely use it if there seems to be a problem.

RIght now I am using the old bottle as the overflow and it seems to be working just fine. Yes, I did change the heater control valve as well.

Thanks... I probably would have found that when I got back to work tomorrow, but I wanted to know ASAP so I could look in to it if there was a problem as my wife is using this as her DD right now until I get some other work done on here YJ next weekend.

OK...thanks...I'll look in to it. 8)

OK...that is what I was hoping. I doubt it will get that high any more with this radiator. Thanks... :cheers: Any and all other input is still welcome if you have something else to offer on the specs for this.

I'll think about that. I am not sure I want to get in to having to change the relay/fuse box just to add a bottle. I hate messing with electrical stuff as it can become a real PITA in a hurry.

Yes, that is my understanding so far, but do you have any idea what the set temperature is for the fan to come on? I probably have not reached that temp due to the fact that I installed a 3 row radiator and it runs at about 190. It did get up to about 220 for a short time while just sitting in my carport, but the fan did not come on.

:cheers: Gotta drink the "light" stuff...regular gives me a headache ;) . I spent about $350 on everything. I re-used the old pressure bottle for hte recovery bottle until I find something better. It is working fine for now though. I just plugged the bottom hole and ran the recovery hose in the smaller connection on the end.

I have converted my closed cooling system to the open system, but have a question or two about the sensor for the electric fan. I used the t-stat housing that incorporates the fan sensor, but I have no idea at whattemperature the fan should come on at, so can anyone tell me? I have not seen the fan come on at all (except when the AC is on) since I did the conversion. Is it possible to hook the wires up backwasrds? There are only two wires and they are both the same color with no distinguishing markings.

I want to go back to the beginning of this for a minute as I am experiencing the "hick-up" in the higher gears and an occasional high idle issue. I thought the IAC was the idle issue, but I changed that yesterday and it didn't help. Did those prpoblems go away for you with the change of the CPS and resistor? Am I in for a CPS issue too?

Great idea. Love having the resources and thanks for the work on putting them together. :cheers: That is a cool list from CJ-5, but there is one thing on there that does not actually exist... "LJ" is not a real body code, but only something that has been created in the minds of Jeepers and simply means "Long Jeep". The 2003 - 2006 "Unlimited" Wrangler still falls under the TJ body code.

OH...I forgot to mention... BE SURE TO DOUBLE CHECK ALL BOLTS THAT YOU TOUCHED. I went on a test drive of about 8 miles after letting it sit and run in the carport for about 15 minutes. About 6 miles in to the drive I started hearing a very odd noise (other then the loud belt sqealing). It was like something rattling and when I got home and opened the hood it kept getting louder and louder. I did the screwdriver to ear thing against the t-stat housing and it was definitely coming from that area. My fear was that something had gone wrong with the new WP...BUT, upon shutting off the engine and taking a good look over everything...I found this... :oops: I had forgotten to tighten the WP pulley bolts. I had only put them in finger tight so one fell out, one was about halfway out andthe other two were still all the way in but obviously loose. I tightened up the three that are left and I will get another one to replace the one that is gone.

I finally got around to doing this as I have had all the parts for about 3 months now :oops: . Anyway...Tina (my wife) came home from work on Thursday and parked the MJ having no issues, but by the time I got home about 30 minutes after her, it was pissing anti-freeze all over the carport from the water pump...so I knew what my project for Saturday was going to be :D . Time to install this...new 3 row cooling :D and this... Old radiator out... What the hell is up with the allen bolt in the t-stat housing...real great idea :nuts: New WP, t-stat, t-stat housing and fan temp sensor installed... New 3 row radiator in... AHHHH... the rewards of a successful job and NO MORE CLOSED COOLING SYSTEM to deal with... :cheers:

I have been warned to stay FAR away from the Rusty's springs. There are at least two guys on here that have used them and been VERY disapointed because they sag terribly. I know both of them personally and have seen the one MJ that has them and it sits lower than mine with the Hell Creek 3" springs :eek: :roll:

Brent here ...but, then again...I have made it a habit to put my name in my sig on most forums that I am on as I did here when I first registered :cheers: .

I work in a Jeep dealership in the Parts Dept...it is too old for that ;) . Our computers will no longer bring up key codes for anyting past about '92-'94.

:eek: Woa...dude...that is not cool. I don't blame you for trying anything you can. I hope there is a way, but I am not sure that there is.

Agreed...

The ignition switch has nothing to do with this problem. The issue is the ignition cylinder has been allowed to get in the lock position and not much short of breaking it will move it. A mobile locksmith is likely to be your best alternative and then go to Advanced Auto (or similar) and buy a new cylinder that will come with keys ;) .

A simple rule to live by... You get what you pay for. Buy the good stuff and do it once...buy the cheap stuff and ... well ... hope for the best ... ;)

I made the same mistake when we did the SOA on our YJ. I pushed the pinion up only 2 degrees and it put the camber off enough that it destroyed the front tires in only 2 months :mad: . On these axles...castor has A LOT to do with camber. I adjusted it back down to the original position and everything is fine now...tires are wearing good, no steering issues etc, etc... 8)

You will be going to Autozone, but you will be lucky if they have it in stock. I checked the ones around here and they all have to order it. The IAC is acctually fairly sensitive and once it screws up, you may be able to play with it and get it working somewhat normal again, but you really need to replace it regardless of what happens now.