BLHTAZ

Good for you I did 6 years combined in the Army / Army National Guard. I have always said that every young man should have to at least go through Basic Training. It does wonders for attitude and moving in to adult-hood. :cheers:

Yeah...regular Bud gives me a headache too, but the light versions never bother me. My favorite is...

It is made in the Schilling Bridge Microbrewery in Nebraska, but I have no idea how far out they ship it. I know I can't get it around here which is really funny because it is a Larry The Cable Guy thing and his house is only about a 20 minute drive from mine :brows: . Anyway...if there was a way for anyone to get some and ship it to me I would be very greatful. I am only asking for a 6 pack and I would NOT hold you responsible for shipping damage...just pack it good to start with ;) . I will pay for all expenses including packing materials.

:D Bud has come out with another new one. Iam not a huge fan of the Ale's, but it's not bad. Anyone else tried it yet? BTW...it's not a twist cap so don't do like me and stand there twisting it for about 3 rotations before realizing that it ain't comin' off :oops: :laughin:

For the right price and if you have the money to spend...ABSO-FREAKIN'-LUTELY... :D :cheers:

The throttle body itself is simply mechanical so outside of a decent crack in it somewhere, there is not really much that could cause it there. Keep going though...you never know what thoughts you may inspire :D

Yeah...I remembered Pete's issues with that and checked that right away. Everything moves free & easy. I honestly have my doubts that the ECU is the problem, but since I had access to one I figured that this will tell the story for sure. Not real local, but a big thanks to Jake (Akula69) for the help from LA :cheers:

Still running between $3.57 - $3.62 here...

Mine ws the same way...no slack. I pulled a little too hard trying to get my hand in there and it pulled the metal crimped end off of the cable housing. Didn't hurt anything and it still works fine after I just pushed it back on there. I (like you) did figure out that it was much easier to go in by the ECU to get to it afterwards. :cheers:

Yes, those gears can be swapped in to your axle. The cost is going to vary as I have seen charges range from $200 - $600. Using used gears will normally cost more as most professional places will not want to do that and they will charge more for it and give no warranty. I say get your money back and put it toward a set of new gears, carriers and install kits.

:laughin: I have had a few people ask if this started after the engine work, but it did not. It has been going on for a while, but it has just become progressively worse. It started out being a 1200-1500 RPM rev, then went to 1800-2000 and hkas now become 3000-3500. I thought I had it fixed the other day with the IAC change when I drove it and had no trouble at all. Tina took it to work and it went crazy on her. Her commute is about 7-8 miles and it ran at 3000 or higher all the way. She had to shut it off at every stop and had a very hard time keeping it at 25 or 35 MPH in the downtown areas where she has to drive. She had to keep it in 3rd gear and ride the brake constantly just to keep it under control.

That is for the fan only. The one that sends info to the ECU is in the left side of the block just under the manifolds.

I have a used one on the way that should be here Monday or Tuesday so we'll see what happens. I have also received some other good info via PM from others on here so I hope that I will be able to get it figured out soon. I have to work this Saturday so I will not have a lot of time to mess with it this weekend.

$180 is actually a good price for a new one. They retail for for almost $300 in the aftermarket and even more through the dealership ;) . Tracy...I'll make that a last resort as I have received a couple of options from other folks on here through PM's that may work out. Are you coming up to Ocala on the 25th & 26th for Jeeptoberfest?

They have the quirks with electrical issues of many different types, but you don't typicaly get to meet those right away ;) . Check it over for wires that look out of place or added in, cut, spliced etc, etc... Could be clues to problems that have been bandaged. Rust is typically the worst in the floor boards, rocker panels (under the doors) and on the bed sides around the flares.

The TJ Rubicon was from '03 - '06 and used only the 4.0L Inline six cylinder engine. The JK Rubicon is the current model '07 - present and uses a 3.8L V-6. It is available in 2 door & 4 door versions Just a quick correction...3.8L, not 3.7 :brows: :cheers:

I have considered both of those scenarios. I can get a new one for a decent price (about $180), but last night I remembered that a friend of mine that owns JeepersDen here in Orlando had two MJ's on his property the last time I was out there so I am going to call him today and see if either of them have one that I can borrow.

I have a new coolant temp sensor, but I have not yet installed it. I was going to try that before spending the money on an ECU, but I wanted some other input if anyone had it. Thank you for yours and for the link... :cheers:

...at what point do you give in and believe that you have a bad one? :dunno: I have replaced... IAC (twice) TPS MAP o2 Sensor EGR valve I have VERY thoroughly cleaned the throttle body as well as cleaning the the fuel system with Seafoam and the IAC still wants to stay open and run the engine at 3000 - 3500 RPM. I have run the FSM tests and the IAC is good. The EGR valve is not working even though it is brand new (Mopar). The EGR solenoid has vacuum running through it all the time no matter what which tells me from the FSM testing that it is bad, but I am not sure I believe that. I am really starting to believe that the ECU is gone as I just can't believe that all of these things that are controlled by the ECU have gone bad at one time. I managed to get the IAC to close and as soon as it did I unplugged it so it would stay shut. I took it out and drove it around for a while and everything works fine as long as I keep it disconnected :roll: . Any insight or experience...?? I'm tired, pissed off and about out of ideas. I have already spent too much time & money trying to fix this, but it seems to me that I am in for another $200...

I think they said that they wanted to make the long ones, but didn't have a LWB MJ to work with for the R&D.

The bearings are not in that picture. Here is the one that shows them...

Me too and that is why I like this board so much...they work very hard to keep anything from becoming one of those. :D

Try this and see if it's what you are looking for...

:D Sweet!! Looks like you have the facility to do it in too :cheers:

Definitlely a bad install as the wear pattern is way off on the side visible in those pics. It appears to me (but I am NOT a gear expert) that the pinion depth was not set correctly causing it to ride too shallow.