deziped

Its a DD. My vote didn' record it says.

Lok for these parts under your front end. Where ever you find excess movement at joints/connections thats probally part of your problem

Dismantled the front brakes and greased up the slide pins and pad bars so all the moving parts slip and slide easier. Lubed everything that has a zerk in it. Lubed one end of the carden joint but couldn'r get to the front one as cross-member was in the way. Drilled a 5/8 hole through it so I could line up on the front zerk and broke off the needle about half way through getting it lubed.

You may have already seen this vehicle in action already. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NA-ST8nXl4U

If it turned a little to tighten it ought to turn in the opposite direction. Can you get on it with a small pair of vise grips to remove it so you can screw something else in the hole with a head on it? IDK

There are 3 solenoids in the AW4. Check OMH's on them, they should be in 11 - 15 ohm range to be good. Any less or more than that they are probally bad. However it is unusual for all three t0 go out at the same time. You can check them by unpluging the TCU and with the key OFF use a circuit tester. Ground tester in slot D7. Insert positive end in C 14 (Converter Clutch Solenoid), C 15 (Shift Sol 2 which is 3rd gear), and C 16 (Shift Sol 1 which is 1st & 2nd gear). Jusst another step you use in searching for problems.

Older GM steering columns should work, mid to late 80's, as my 89 appears tc match up with some of them. Had an 86 column with indicator on it for about a year that I couldn't even give away. Just threw it in with some other MJ parts I sold to a fellow to get rid of it this past April..

Finally had time to finish the swap today. Made a couple bubble flares for MC lines and dropped it all in place. So a 97 XJ booster swap into an 89 is pretty easy. Cost: Booster ended up being free: brake lines $8: Can B fluid and a couple nuts about $10. Oh, and 1 destroyed 89 booster just because I wanted to look see inside it. Image Not Found No hacking on fire wall necessary Image Not Found

Grab it. You can make it look like this 30k mile 71 with orig paint. Image Not Found

Tub of water with bleach added helps cut the spreads of the stuff. Don't wash it though, that only spreads it.

Well I couldn't find anyone near me willing to cut and thread the rod so I just cut 5/8" out of the 97 rod, chamferd it & slipped a sleeve on it then welded the rod back together, then ground down the weld & slid the sleeve in place over the weld on the rod and then welded the sleeve on to the rod (little insurance). Put the 97 rod back in the 97 booster & put a ratchet strap around the booster & pulled it back together. Punched the tabs down released the ratchet strap and all is well. Its back in the MJ. Still got to run the brake lines to the 89 Pro valve & put a couple bubble flares on the MC end of it. It a snug fit, but, I didn't have to bend or cut on the firewall at all to get it in place and bolted down thanks to that 1/4" spacer they used in 97 = 00

:agree: Great to know what's inside the various boosters, but I'd never attempt to open one up, change the arm, then use it on my rig. It's the brake system; too many unknowns unless you had the means to pressure test the booster assembly after the mod. For the HO 91-92 models it's a simple booster swap using the existing arm, but for the Renix models it's more complicated. Grinding down the flat tang on the arm seems a much safer way to do this upgrade to me. Your right, there are several ways to do it. I'm going to cut and thread the 97 Rod , if I can find a machinist in this rinky dink town. With a sleeve on it and jamb nuts it will be adjustable so I can kinda fine tune the length. Will have to see how it turns out. If that don't work I'll just grab a newer WJ booster and swap it out no hassel. But, maybe exposing the internals of the boosters will lead to new and innovative ideas by CC members and save them a $ or 2 restoring/modifying their MJ's.

Pics of 97 XJ Booster. Not to be confused with the WJ. Just thought someone may want to know whats in there. Inside of rear cover. Image Not Found View with front cover removed. The green clip retains the brake actuator rod. Much easier to remove than the 89 rod. Image Not Found 97 on left 89 on right. Image Not Found The plunger on the end of the 97 is smaller (.410) than the 89 (.500). (img][/img]

The ruber diaphragm is on the firewall side under the metal cover. You have to work the rubber out of the slot in the black plastic center (It not really plastic, but some kinda poly stuff) to gain access to the clip. It will seal up when you put it back together and tap the cover retainers down.

405 sucks hard. I accidently (stupidity) ended up on it last Sat at 10PM. If your in the center lane of I-5 and don't see the sign coming up to move to the right, yeah try to move over 3 lanes in less than an 1/8 of a mile in that mess at 65. I'd rather have been on there with that jet than the hoarde of maniacs out that late. Don't people ever sleep in that metropolis?

Not at all. In the 4th thread you'll see that I have already taken the booster apart. In the thread where I referenced the yellow dot what you are looking at is the rubber diaphagm minus the metal booster cover (note metal covers in background). The other pics are of whats left of the center of the booster after I battered it with a hammer. I did imply that had i known where the clip was located initially I wouldn't have had to use the BFH. Disassembly of the booster to reach the internals was easy (ref thread 4) but is considered dangerous I have heard/read.

Well I'm back from Calif., so I took the BFH to the booster. Destroyed the black center piece but I now know where to find the clip that holds the rod in. It's hiding under the rubber diaphragm. Just pull the rubber out from under the center piece and you'll find the clip. Had I known that it would have been so easy to remove the actuator rod. Image Not Found The shiny thing is the clip Image Not Found Image Not Found It was just about under the yellow dot. It fell out on its own when I found it. Image Not Found

There is no info in that MADXJ article that explains disassembly of the booster. All they mention is sending it out to someone who knows how to do it, but, not how to do it yourself. So when I get back home from Los Angeles I will dis-assemble that thing with a BFH or a torch to see what holds what in place. The actuator rod is coming out, it just doesn't know it yet. :fs1:

Well I opened the booster' Image Not Found Image Not Found Now I got to figure out how to remove the actuator rod. I don't know if that big black nobby looking thing is screwed in. Don't see any snap rings holding anything. Image Not Found Open to suggestions, ideas or your and expertise on this thing. Image Not Found

Comptemplating opening up a 97 XJ booster to see if 89 valve operating rod (that be the one from pedal arm to booster} can be swapped in. Does anyone have experience with this swap? My other option to use this free booster & MC is to cut both rods and splice on the 89 rod to proper lemgth with built in adjustability (threads). I know the WJ is simplier to do, but, this booster will go in there if I move the washer jug forward about an inch. Gonna use a ratchet strap on it to preclude sudden separation. If you have experience with this share your views/opinions.

I'm lost, I thought he was asking about a prop valve line????

This may interest someone lookng to recover bucket seats. http://eugene.craigslist.org/pts/2492753185.html

I was being a wise a--. Thats where the State Pen is located. Also the best sweet onions you can buy are grown there.

If your using hydrogen to supplement your gas fuel you need an adjustable device for the MAF to tell the EC to lean the gas input from the injectors. But Ive never seen one that large or configuration. Probaly not related.

Will a 98 -2000 XJ booster and MC transplant to the 89 without a lot of modification? I know the 96 and 80 or so WJ will work. But this one is a free bee so thought I might give it a try.