deziped

http://eugene.craigslist.org/ctd/1496471269.html Well at least the body won't fall off in flakes like those north-easter's.

Probally as they have different ECU which they have to work in conjunction with.

2.5, 4sp, 3:55,s, & 235 X 15's is the reason my daughter now owns it, My old MJ that is. It couldn't get out of it's own way at intersdectons

Looks decent :dunno: http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/ctd/1517769411.html

This last method is the way I have always done it also. But I drive it around a couple blocks, 1/2 mile, as it heats up quicker (cuts down on the stand around time) and when I see the quage start to climb I pull it into the driveway and let it run until I see the guage hit about 185-190 and then shut it off & let it do its thing. Add more and repeat if necessary until it stays level.

Plugged the elec sw from the 242 into the prewired factory wiring harness that was always taped and tucked away on the AW4. Now the light comes on when I'm in 4WD part time. Wrapped the old vaccumn hoses left over from the 231 swap and taped them up outa the way. Had the front axle in the locked position before I swapped the TC so I suppose it will stay in that position as long as the vaccumn remains applied or not applied which ever it is. If it decides to unlock it self I will take the disconnect apart and lock it over permanently.

See what looks like a nearly show room quality red one everyday. Older fellow parks (he works there) it in front of store 300' from my front door just about every day. I'm thinking its probally a 91-92 based on color co-ordinated bumpers and 2 WD. If it don't rain tomorrow I'll walk over and take a couple pics and shoot a little BS with him and get the facts. Other than that I see several off & on around my little town frequently. Mostly gray, faded, with lots of fast food trash inside & always dirty outside. Kind of a Jeep trademark me thinks. :popcorn:

CL Portland http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/pts/1506677963.html

Don't like the ricer look of the grill's, but the other mods are great and efforts worth while accomplishing. Takes the kinda of talent and tenacity I'm a lil short on.

With 235's and 4:10 rear end my 2.5 was a gut less piece. It performed OK on flat stretches of road, but on small hills it was 2nd gear and pedal to metal in an effort to get out of the way of others.

3:55, no sweat I assumed as such, info as given applies.

I think you need a 33, read below. I have never changed to the 33 to find out. My speedo is still reading slow. Check transmissioncenter.net, they have used ones. Don't remember the prices. deziped wrote: Finally, after procrastinating for a year, changed out the drive gear to see if my MPH will read correctly since I changed from 215 to 235-75's. When it read 25 I was doing 26.8 and at 65 I was actually doing about 7l. Will se if the change from a 35 to 34 tooth gear is gonna be close enuf. Will check it against the wifes caddy tomorrow on I-5 since were both going into town . If its within a mile of hers either way at 65 I'll be satisfied. Should help avoid getting speeding tickets I hope. Going from 35 to 34 teeth is only a 2.8% change. That's only going to bring your speedo up from 65 to about 67 MPH. I think you need at least ("at most"?) a 33-tooth gear.

Which one do you need a 34 or 35? I might have one.

Is that short vaccumn line hooked up from the throttle body to MAP on firewall? Mine wouldn't run when that was disconnected. Sometimes it would start but soon die. It was sending a weird signal to ECU I guess.

Mine don't look like they have ever been bumped. Hmmm, maybe if I run over the curb.

Daystar 1-1/2" Transmission Mount in Black for 84-01 Jeep® Cherokee XJ All of Daystar's™ mounts are constructed of heavy duty steel that is fully welded and interlocked for extreme duty strength. Daystar™ uses its special blend of Polyurethane to isolate the mount from the engine and reduce the amount of power loss a traditional mount allows... more » Click here for details $52.99 #76058.831 The above is the sales pitch in Quadratec's on-line catalog listed under transmission stuff. A couple of mounts on that page are poly........

Here's where the front axle measurements above came from: http://www.lunghd.com/Downloads_and_Lin ... 321_CV.pdf Still looking for rear shafts

JEEP Short W.B. (Continued) 1990-94 CHEROKEE, COMANCHE, AND WAGONEER 1310 Series, 2.5L Engine, Auto. Trans., TC to FA 915723-1607 53005540 27.970 Not Available 231 T/C, Model 30 Dana Front Axle 1310 Series, 2.1L & 2.5L Eng. Aisen, TC to FA 915723-1318 53005541 25.310 Not Available Man. 5-Spd., 231 T/C, Model 30 Dana Axle 1310 Series, 4.0L Eng. Aisen Warner, TC to FA 915374-1903 53005542 30.660 Not Available 4-Spd. Auto, 231 T/C & 242 T/C, Model 30 Dana Front Axle 1310 Series, 4.0L Eng. Aisen TC to FA 915374-1722 53005543 29.250 Not Available Seiki, Man. 5-Spd., 231/Kanda T/C, Model 30 Dana Axle 1310 Series, 4.0L Eng. Aisen TC to FA 915374-1517 53005544 27.080 Not Available Seiki, Man. 5-Spd., Kanda T/C, Model 44 Dana Axle 1310 Series, 4.0L Eng. Aisen TC to FA 915374-1702 53005545 28.620 Not Available Warner, Auto. 4-Spd., Kanda T/C, Model 44 Dana Axle 1990-91 SENIOR JEEP (GRAND WAGONEER) 1310 Series, 5.9L Eng., 727 Auto. TC to FA 915724-1427 53005539 25.700 Not Available Trans., 229 T/C, Model 44 Dana Axle 1988 CHEROKEE, COMANCHE, AND WAGONEER 1310 Series, 6 Cyl. Eng. Peugeot, TC to FA 915723-1607 8953003912 27.953 909364-2600 16.219 Automatic Trans., Kanda P.t. Trans. Case, 4.11 Axle Ratio 1310 Series, 4 Cyl. Eng. Aisen, 4 & TC to FA 915723-1318 8953003235 25.313 909364-2600 13.563 5-Spd. Manual Trans., 3.55 & 4.11 Axle Ratios, 231 Transfer Case 1310 Series, 6 Cyl. Eng., Auto. Trans., TC to FA 915374-1903 8953005040 30.672 Not Available 242/231 Trans. Cases, 3.55 Axle Ratio 1310 Series, 6 Cyl. Eng. Peugeot, TC to FA 915374-1722 8953005039 29.250 Not Available Automatic Trans., 242/231 Trans, Cases, 3.08 Axle Ra

My 89 4.0 just did the same thing 15 minutes ago. Just fired it up and went to store 3 blocks away. Wouldn't start when I came out of store but it cranked and stumbled like it wanted to start. Unplugged CPS & replugged it. Still no start. Got p----- and slammed the hood shut. It started right off like normal. Go figure. Maybe I better dig out the old CPS I saved & carry it with me just in case.

Maybe you have a fuel filter starting to plug up. Also check fuel pressure at the port on the fuel rail (Injector feed line). My old 2.5 was worn out and tired, but, it would still do 70 in 4th on flat roads.

maybe a dead cylinder (no fire) or blowby on a bad exh valve on the compression stroke. m2c.

CL in Portland: http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/1484547838.html

Not mine: http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/1490868523.html

Shaved huh!

That coon must have been standing on his hind legs, paws out, screaming aaahh s===.