Keyav8r

The system does strange things with a simple a-b-c list.

After reading a little in my service manual (when all else fails read the instructions), I hooked up my AC gauges with the R134 to 1/4 adapters and opened the service valves to the mid point and discovered I had a low charge. With the compressor running I had 0 on the suction side and 50 PSI on the discharge side. I blew most of a 20 oz. can of R134 into the system and never got the high side above 70-75 PSI while charging. When I stopped charging the high side gauge would start dropping back towards 50 PSI. Should I assume that: (a) I have a big leak somewhere, or (b) my compressor is bad, or © both of the above? Unless someone out there has a magic bullet, I'm looking for a good auto AC shop around Birmingham to help me determine how much of my life savings it will take to make my truck blow cold air, like it did last summer.

Schardein - you're right, guess I've got that mental mirror image thing going on.

Looks like the attachment screw holes are in the same places, so either one should fit. The one on the right looks like the one in my MJ. The one on the left just looks longer at the front, ahead of the shifter boot opening.

My '88 had the fitting in the lower radiator hose with the fan switch. Does that mean it had the dealer installed AC? When I replaced the hoses I moved the switch to a bung on the radiator tank.

The AC in my 91 Eliminator worked well last year. Over the fall & winter it was laid up while I did some floor repair, cleaned the interior plastics, cleaned and dyed the carpet, etc. Fired it up this spring and everything that worked before the lay-up still works - with the exception of the AC. The compressor turns (clutch engages and compressor turns when the upper control is moved to Normal or Max) but it only blows ambient temperature air, about the same temperature as in Vent. The hot/cold door in the plenum works (cable operated) as I can see the arm move when I move the lower control lever from cold to hot to cold and the temperature of the air changes (hot air in hot/cool air in cold). The upper control also changes the air flow as designed (air through defroster when in defrost, floor in heat, floor, floor and vents in bilevel, vents in vent, and vents in normal or max). Also, the recirculation door opens in max (vacuum operated). The truck has R134a fittings on the ports and appears to have been converted but I can't confirm that 100%. I've ordered adapters (R134a to 1/4") to hook up AC gauges and check low and high side pressures. Low side was around 25-30 PSI according to the gauge on a R134a recharge can. The system took a couple of shots from the can and pumped back down to around 45 PSI suction and holding. No apparent effect on cooling. Any suggestions from the AC gurus on what I should try before my adapters get here?

ScottJeep - What were the three steps of wet sanding? I've heard that a brown or purple scotchbrite pad can be used wet, also. I have a good set of spare tail lights I'd like to clean, polish, and clear coat but I'm a little reluctant to try taking them apart. I may pick up a XJ tail light from the JY for practice. Someone on the DIY forum posted about taking them apart and putting a little "Kentucky Chrome" (spray can type) on the reflectors. You've got quite a Jeep collection in your driveway.

I have Spidertrax wheel spacers on the rear of my 91Eliminator. Highly recommend them. Watch their website for deals on blemished spacers to save a few bucks. Whatever you get make sure they are hub centric.

Sorry to read this, Eagle. Take care of yourself!

It's not just Jeeps. Had one run into the side of my '05 Silverado. Bent both passenger side doors and the bed side. Never found the deer. It probably bounced off and kept running, like yours did.

I've got a 10-15 year old Whirlpool french door beer/water/gatorade refrigerator in the garage (fridge on one side, freezer on other side) that has never given us any problems. It was demoted from kitchen duty when the household manager decided we needed a stainless steel refrigerator. Also a Whirlpool with french doors on fridge, freezer on bottom, vegetable tray in between. Had it for a couple of years and had one service call on something (l'll have to consult the household manager on what the problem actually was, she handles all that kind of stuff). The only think I don't like about it is the ice maker will periodically jam and automatically switch to crushed ice to clear the jam. That crushed ice melts too quickly in my gin and tonic and waters the drink down. Other than that nuisance, it's a good appliance and the only sealing issues are when I don't push a door or drawer fully closed (operator error). On the way back from lunch yesterday, a co-worker received a delivery schedule robo-call on the refrigerator he'd just purchased. After the call I asked what brand he'd bought. His reply - "a Samsung because it had the best ratings". Bit my tongue to avoid passing on the Samsung comments in this thread - why burst his bubble? He'll discover his error in due time. No, I didn't feel obligated to warn him because he tends to pi$$ me off when he goes into his justification/superior knowledge mode.

Thanks! I think I'll go to the garage and check it out now that I have enough education to be dangerous .

When I bought my 91 the AC worked very well. After siting idle for most of the winter while I did some floor repair, interior cleaning, inner fender liners replacement, etc. the AC now just blows ambient air on any setting. After I jump out the pressure switch to check for compressor operation I will need to check the pressures on the low and high sides but I have no idea what those pressures should be when operating normally and what the minimum pressure is to operate the pressure switch (I have a set of refrigeration gauges to check pressures). If it turns out to be just low system pressure I'lll put in some more R134a (system appears to have been converted based on presence of fittings). If that doesn't do the trick, I'll pull a vacuum, see if it holds and (a) if it holds, change o-rings to make sure they're right, change the dryer, vacuum again, and add PAG oil and R-134a, or (b) if it doesn't hold, track down the leaks (hoses look a little suspect, praying that the coil in the cabin doesn't leak), fix them, then do the vacuum test again, add oil and freon and hopefully have AC again. Can someone tell me what the pressures should be (low side, high side and minimum for pressure switch to allow compressor operation)?

One more example of marketing driven design. Some genius said "Hey, we have the technology to put wifi cameras in our refrigerators and no other appliance manufacturer has done it. Now, how can we convince people to pay a lot more for something ridiculous that they don't really need?" Another genius said "Easy, we appeal to their innate laziness, vanity, and stupidity". And a marvelous new un-needed appliance is born!

MJ has a matching new full size Michelin spare under the bed on a 10 hole with rivets wheel (need to find at least 3 more to replace the Pacers) and an original jack that actually works. Ram has a non-matching (same size, different brand) spare a functional OEM jack. Also have a 12volt inflator but no repair kit. I believe the Mazda 6 also has a full size spare (need to check that) and functional OEM jack.

Had an '01 GMC Sierra 1500 extended cab that I put 330K miles on (target was 500K miles), never had the engine or transmission opened up (exception -water pump, if you count that as engine work). Got rear-ended and insurance company totaled it. Replaced it with an '05 Chevy Silverado extended cab that I sold at 260K because of a bad case of truck fever. Again, neither engine or transmission opened up but did have the fuel pump replaced. Both were good trucks. Then bought a '14 Ram 1500SLT quad cab with hemi and 8 speed auto transmission. Hands down, best driving and riding pick-up I've ever owned. 20-21 MPG highway (would be better if I kept it below 70 MPH) and really moves when you put your foot in it. I think it also would be a good truck with either the V-6 or the diesel.

Hit the "About" button the website. Very interesting story on Al Azadi and the reasons for the collection.

Outstanding truck and great work. Even though I'm a Crimson Tide fan, I'm really liking that color!

Drove it to church this morning. Ran good. Everything worked as it should (except, of course, fuel gauge, AC and cruise). Fuel gauge and AC are in the "to do" list. Cruise tends to lock on and accelerate and not disengage regardless of switch position, brake or clutch pedal use. Can be quite exciting so it's disconnected. There's a glitch in the wiring that I haven't been able to track down. Other than that, it's another wonderful day in MJ land!

A picture is worth a thousand words! Thanks again, Mike! My project for this Saturday just got changed.

If that is the ECU right by the air filter box, this looks like my 91 AFTER I re-located the washer fluid bottle from the left fender well to the right firewall. I moved it to make room for the eventual dual diaphragm brake booster upgrade and replaced it with a later model XJ bottle (which is what yours looks a lot like). Post you VIN and maybe someone can decode it for you. BTW - that's not the stock location for the vacuum reservoir. It's usually mounted behind the front bumper on the right side.

Mike - thanks for the dimensions. If you don't mind, I'll do a mock-up this weekend and send you a sketch to make sure I'm measuring from the right places. Minuit - I'm with you on getting the location right. I'd rather leave them off than have them in the wrong place. And yes, I may be a little anal.

The Comanche emblems that are normally located on the fenders are missing on my 91 Eliminator. I think they may have been removed when Rich had the truck painted (maybe damaged when removed and not replaced). Don't know that for sure, just speculating. I have a pair of the emblems I'd like to install but need a template or dimensioned drawing of the location on the fender. Does anyone have this info?

Don't tell me that! Now I'll have to find one of those.

PM a mailing address and I'll fish a few of them out of my MJ fastener bin and send them to you. I believe the center screw on my panel was one of the double helix screws like the ones that are used on the grille. Edit: They will not be chrome, however.