neohic

:dunno: Thinking back, I've never lived farther than three miles from one of them smut bars. Even now... drive by one everyday that's all of a half mile from my place. THey always have these big signs out front too... "Welcome Hunters!" "Welcome locals!" "Welcome Fishermen!". When Austin and I were planning out a MN pow wow and before it was decided to have it up there (which didn't work out anyhow) I even went into the local joint and asked what it would take to put up a banner that read "Welcome Comanche Club!". :yes:

Rusty trucks need lovin' too!

Really? How many strip clubs are out there that are "tops only"?

I think there's just something cool about stock wheels. I know in the past that you've said something about some Soft 8s and other such plain looking wheels, but have you ever put any thought into keeping the stock steelies and having them powder coated a nice graphite color? If you're still thinking to lift a bit and some 32s, some 32x9.50s would look all sorts of amazing all tucked under the fender flares. Just a thought... Good luck with the metal prep! It's a good looking truck but I'd still be terrified of getting nothing back but a box full of good steel patches and a garbage bag full of rust chips and dust.

Bump... with high hopes.

:dunno:

Curious to know... Where does the bumper start and the bed begin and how did you do the transition?

Bump just because I was looking around and found another video. ... not so great for Walker, but still a hoot and a half to watch.

Yeah... but if I were to do it again, I'd just do a low mileage HO swap and be done. We discussed that here: http://comancheclub.com/topic/33316-stroker/

Fiberglass leafs with aluminum bushing seats bolted at the ends in the rear along with the blocks and XJ shackles to lower it further. Not sure what the sway bar is off of. In the front, they used custom spun coils. That front axle isn't the race ready unit either. They cut between the control arm mounts and the knuckle to set the camber to get them to corner just right. There are rumors that they cut and dropped the axle in the middle for clearance. As far as I've found, they did not but there are plenty of action pictures that look as though they did however it's just the tranny cross member.

I like at 10:04 where the dude talks about the resale value being higher than the suggested list price. Is that where the rest of the world get's their overpriced ideas of selling their non-running, no rockers, no floors, torn upholstery, twisted up of what's left of the rusted frame, but all the electrical still works type of MJs for a mint? :hmm: Neat video. I like it!

For the day that my Eliminator is welcomed into the HO crowd, I want to go with a late '96 XJ for the donor so I can go OBDII also. This guy bastardized the XJ sender to work in the MJ tank... http://comancheclub.com/topic/32989-kentucky-bound-lwb/ ... he also wrote that the gauge would be off but I would imagine that it could be corrected with fiddling with the gauge sender arm.

Can't be said enough how sharp of a truck this is. Hats off sir! One thing that I've wondered, though... what's up with the base model steering wheel in an Eliminator?

Extremely rusted? No... no... no, sir. That's just shy of GOOD condition in MN.

^ This. I love it when this happens. I avoid the O'Reilly's in town just for this reason. Everytime I need to go in there it's like having to do their job for them.

Cool! Where you parking the diesel for the winter?

Sad... looks like there's a few new parts under the hood. I'm sure it went something like, "Well, that wasn't the problem... and that wasn't the problem... and that wasn't the problem... so this is the solution." :doh:

Sweet. Austin told me you were up here in our 'hood. You should've came over! I'm only about a four and a half hour jaunt across the state from where you were!

^ Is that at the top of Ski Jump?

Wow! Really good looking truck. REALLY good looking truck. :thumbsup:

Good practice if not anything else. Start tearing into it... what's the worse that can happen? If it's already rusted to the point of not being structurally sound, you can replace the steel. If you start replacing and it doesn't turn out like it should then at least you tired. Just be sure that the welds you put into it are sound and safe for use on the road. I'd say use it as a learning tool.

Bumpity, bump, bump.

Sawzall everything that looks like it won't make it perform better offroad. Rinse and repeat as necessary. Done.

What a trip this month has been, eh? First the site change over... then no COTM... then all this happens just to fill the void. Thanks to everyone again for the kind words!

It's not red?