Biotex

Just noticed that the needle on my temperature guage heads for zero when I go around corners or brake or accelerate. I'm figuring it is just a loose connection at the sender, but not possitive. Any other causes? Keeping in mind it drops, not raises. Tat would indicate an open vs. a ground correct?

I was going pretty slow in a residential neighborhood, and only a few blocks, so i doubt it had time to do any damage. If anything the pump would go first, so we'll see.

When those sockets go bad (lose a ground etc...) strange things can happen. Probably not the problem, but they are inexpensive and easy to swap, so I always start with the easy stuff. Clean the grounds, connectors etc... Speaking of connectors, there is the one on the driver side inner fender near the front that controls the front lights. Wouldn't hurt to clean it.

Took Maura out for her first real drive after the lift and new seals in the tranny etc... Got a few blocks down the road and was doing my mental checklist on fluids and such. Engine, check. Tranny, check axles, check xfercase, oops! Back inside the shop and sure enough, I never refilled the case after the re-install. You know what? It's actually quieter with fluid inside...

$2.00 delivered if you buy 100 plus gal.

sounds like maybe your multifunction switch is bad, or your sockets up front are bad. Both parts are available at NAPA.

Unless the steering wheel lock is engaged... :eek:

Thanks guys, I was able to re-center it as posted.

Look closely at the bulbs in the rear tail lights and mahe sure the correct bulbs are in the corresponding sockets. Mine did the same thing, and I found someone had installed an 1156 into an 1157 socket.

I put my floor jack under the pumpkin section all the time with no ill efects. On the fron, with it being so offset, sometimes I put the jack behind the lower control arm mount at the frame. This lets the springs droop vs. jacking at the axle, but just depends on where or what you are working on.

I need to know how to get the wheel so that the big opening between the spokes is at the top. I added lift and track bar. Seems to drive nice, and we don't have a very good option for alignments in my town. If I center it, then get an alignment, will it be off again? Or does the alignment shop take care of it all?

Don't forget upgraded brakes, steering, drive shafts, etc...

Cruiser, please educate me on the effect of a vacuum leak on our renix systems. On carburated engines a vacuum leak raises the idle. I'm not able to test it out, but what happens if the intake leaks?

Exactly, with the partial chain exposed, you can measure the deflection. The FSM lists the max deflection, and if you are beyond or at it, it would be best to plan on a replacement.

great time to measure the slop in your timing chain also.

Is it ok to mix DOT3 conventional with synthetic? Any reasons to NOT run synthetic brake fluid in our Comanches?

I'm still trying to wrap my head around the emissions and FI portion on these engines, but I believe a leaking EGR will cause a drop in idle. Might be only happening when it is cold.

I may be wrong, but I'm thinking you would need to lower the pan enough to get to the oil pump bolts. Once the pump is off, the sump is no longer an issue. I personaly have not tried this approach, but I believe it is the method you were refering to.

Just got my 1 PUTCO TAILGATE PROTECTOR SS FOR JEEP COMANCHE COMMANCHE 1987 88 89 90 91 - 94in the mail today. Seller on ebay was clearing out some old stock, and the price was good. It is a solid piece of polished stainless steel, and best part is it actually fits perfectly. wish I could take some pictures. :rant:

Installed the longer sway bar links, rear brake hose, and axle vent hose. I think I will reinstall the tail lights and start driving again. Then I can continue on with the rest of the body work at a more sensible pace. I was going to include some pictures, except wifey ran over my camera with the Rubicon. New camera on the way.

Haven't decided yet. I should hold them up and see what they look like I guess.

How did you attach the comanche badge? They are glued on right?

Thanks 88, I'm having a blast with it so far. I was kind of anxious to get the truck back to running, so I pushed myself today, and got the bed installed, the tank in, and started her up. Pulled Maura outside for a poser shot.

3 cans of undercoating did the job I sprayed the white today on the roof and the back of the cab. The front of the bed was also sprayed. I'm now ready to reassemble the bed. 3 coats of clear Yippe!

Finaly some decent weather. I decided to get ready for paint. I'm only going to paint between the bed and the cab tomorrow, so I can get the truck back together and driveable. Below is after I sanded, cleaned and primed any bare metal. I found some self etching primer that matched the wite pretty darned close. I didn't intend to do that, just a coincidence. Tomorrow, I will seal with a urethane primer, then in the recoat window, I will paint the white. This will insure a good chemical as well as a physical bond between the paint and primer. Masked off and prepped. I'm going to spray the roof also. This will make it easy when it comes time to spray the truck. Not having to worry about overspray on the roof since I don't have a proper paint booth. When it comes time to shoot the rest of the truck, I may take it to a friends shop and let him shoot it in his professional booth. It depends how the roof turns out. If it comes out good, I may shoot the rest of the truck myself. Urethane primer ready for wet sanding. No evidence of rust any more. After I spray the bed, and the paint is dry, I plan to undercoat it while it is upside down.