ftpiercecracker1

Has anyone tried to do dual ford taurs electric fans? I have my entire engine bay stripped out and will be puting in a stroker, new radiator, and converting to the open system (for simplicity sake). Dual taurs fans would make for one hell of a cooling system. I was just would like to know if any of you have experience with them, before i start on this project. What year, make, model taurs? thanks

thanks, thats reeeal reasuring

hi guys, i am still in the midst of arguing with my self on whether or not it would be worth all the time and money it would take to turbocharge my stroker build. if you have added a turbo either stroker or stock, please feel free to leave a comment i really REally want to, but i could use a little reassurance it will be all worth while in the end thanks journey

even if there is no play in your U-joints they could still be on their way out. I know from experience that as they go bad they start making a phantom noise, barely noticiable at first, but as they continue to wear it becomes more and more pronounced until it is obvious that something is about to give out. have you tried to isolate the noise? is it constant or pulsing? are you losing any fluids at all?

Bingo :thumbsup: , i will be very suprised if i ever break an 8.8 and with an upgraded 30 i should be good. i just have to take care of that dang death wobble. :fs1:

standalone or piggyback? megasquirt if you want serious tuneability

To the first part, AH yes the infamous disconnect, i did away with that a long time ago, i just never heard of the abriviation. and to the second part. . . . :ack: :ack: :fs1: I can weld just not very well, can you take your rig on long trips? or is it strictly a trail rig? I live in TN and plan on eventually driving it down to south FL when done with college. I will keep my eyes open for the suggested axles, but it will be quite a while till the engine is even done. journey

all this crap is what i am talking about, i'm dum i don't know what "cad" means http://www.4x4xplor.com/images/alignmen ... ment01.jpg and how much do they extend out? 1, 1.5in both sides? thanks

What year would i be looking for? and how would this work with all the extra equipment on the stock front axle? In my area i can darn near turn a rock over and find a Ford 60 rear, but the Waggy/Isuzu is another story so i will probably do just like you :thumbsup: . What kept you from bobbing the axles? What has to be done? How did you get the front 9in to bolt up?? and i don't understand the whole driving in the rain??? thanks for all the info,

thanks for the advice, like i said i don't plan on drag racing the thing. I will probably do a little research my self and see whats out there, i have quite a while till the engine will be ready. thanks again

you really don't think a rear Ford 9" would hold? I don't plan I drag racing the thing, just hitting the mud a few times a week with my buddies. question, what woud you consider to be the weakest link in the running gear? universals? and what exactly would i break if i left it all stock under there? just curious thanks, i should probably start my own thread huh?

Think turbocharged stroker kinda power and 33s. 8)

what about bobbing? and do you have a recommendation as to a front axle upgrade, nothing crazy, just something more than my d35 thanks

question, and sorry about the highjack, at least it has to do with the 8.8. What year explorer did the 8.8 come in? do they have to be bobbed? and how much power do you think it can handle? thanks

well ya see, about 7 er 8 months ago when i had the truck in florida, i had it taken to a shop where they recharged the system. From what i can rememeber they did nothing about the r12 that was still in the system, they just topped it off with the r134a, using their specail gauges to make sure not to overfill it. I know I know r12 + 134a = :thwak: , and i guess i am paying for my stupidity now. :doh: P.S. why can't the evaporator just be purged before recharge? What is inside that would be damaged just by ambiant air? I thought it was just a fancy type of radiator? thanks, and all posts are helpful :thumbsup:

You think i can get the stuff for a conversion at a parts store? I might have to get a new compressor while i'm at it, mine likes to squeal on start up and when i let the rpms drop below 1000. Hoses are in ruff shape too, i don't think there are any leaks, its just the fittings are darn near rusted through and some of the hoses are flaking from rust pretty severly. Its funny though, cause even with all that it still blows pretty darn cold. :rotfl2:

Hypothetically, speaking if i were to completely disconnect my a/c compressor and condenser and remove it from the engine bay, what would i have to do to get my a/c running again? Would it be as simple as bolting everything back on again, pulling a vacuum on it and recharging the freon? or would i have to get a whole new system because i let air into it??? remember strictly "hypothetically" thanks also, i know that my system calls for R12, (very hard to find, more expensive) what do i have to replace to make the switch over to R-134a? thanks again

Wow, this thread is depressing. I am building a turbocharged 4.6 stroker right now, probably going to spend $3500 by the time its all said and done. Hope all the time and money will be worth it.

the clear corners look killer. :chillin: some window tint and a paint job would really helps things out too

fix the fan for sure, check your clutch fan might need to be replaced, maybe refresh/clean your cooling system, i.e. new coolant, flush the motor could be gummed up a little, check the front of your rad could be stuffed with leaves and crap the stock cooling system on our MJs isnt exactly heavy duty, one way to ensure you won't over heat, that i have done personally, is just remove the t-stat, maximum coolant all the time, but i wouldnt recommended it.

C:\Users\store0575\Pictures\photos\2012-03-17_1236.png

maybe 1000 bucks, the only things going for it is its, lowmileage and clean interior/exterior/subframe. What you mention as bad, in my opinion would make me loose interest, 1. its a NONE 4x4 2. its a 4cly, rather gutless 3. its a 4spd, not familar with these, but i am just not a fan of 4spd anyway, too much space between gears 4. gonna need a FULL brake job, ouch. 5. all fuel lines, don't think thats to hard, but still something that will prevent you from driving it. 6. new shocks,again not a real big deal, but still its another factor to consider. based on what you have listed, unless the body, interior, and subframe are in pristine condition, i would offer him 750 cash. strictly my opinion. By the way i ran it on kbb and they say 1300 for FAIR condtion, but then again the oldest year they include in 92, so it is a little off.Other things to consider that may or may not effect price. . . a/c? heat? good tires? (something to keep in mind, if he has new or nearly new tires on, he could possibly be trying to hide an alignment issue) Radio? cd player? do all the lights work? interior, dome, dash, brake, reverse, head lights service records? very important. clear title? also very important, ask about leans(loans he's taken out on the truck) first owner? second? what has/was the truck used for? hope this helps you in your search, best of wishes.

check all of these, C:\Users\store0575\Pictures\image-1636806076.jpg (copy and paste into search box) ^ also check for a loose steering box, worn out steering stablizer, bad wheel bearings, tire(s) out of balance, warped/bent rim, OR my personall favorite, if you have stock comanche rims, mud can build up on the inside of the rim causing an uneven weight, a good cleaning of all your rims inside and out would make for a simple test. i had the same problem, and a new trac bar solved most of the problem i was experiencing, now it just shakes at about 65+, instead of 55. I think its my control arms myself, but those are pretty expensive, and i've got 4 of em.

Ok, if all you care about is getting you mj to run again here is what you do. Hook your radio back up the way it was. Then run some kind of wire, nothing to light, from the inside of your cab down to your starter solenoid, then run a wire from the hot side of your battery to the inside of your cab, don't let it touch anything grounded. Buy a electrical switch from your auto parts store, install it using your newly run wires. If you do this right and its about as easily as 123 you should be able to turn you key to the run position, flip the switch, let it crank a few times and verroooom! you should be good as gold, just DO NOT forget to turn of the starter switch. FYI this is the exact setup on my MJ and has never failed me. P.S. you might have to drill a hole in your dash if you wish to mount the switch, I will post pictures on this thread of my setup if you would like me to do so. best of luck

:hmm: How long has this been going on?