ftpiercecracker1

So a 2022 LWB transit connect with very basic options is right at $30,000. This includes tax, tag, dealer fees, registration, etc. MSRP is $27,000. A used one for $17,000 is starting to look pretty good.

Going to the dealership tomorrow to get hard numbers if I want to order a new one.

Thanks for the insight. From what I've seen on the internet 2017 and newer seems to be what's recommended. Any 2017 and newer are all going for $20k+. I don't plan on using it to hard, just a mobile tool hauler really. I've got my truck and flatbed trailer for heavy loads of materials. Everything that is even remotely reasonably priced has about 75k+ and is 7-8 years old. With dealer fees and what not $18k and up seem to be the going rate. I've test drove 2 so far. A 16 and a 15. Even empty I felt like I was winding them out with just moderate driving. No matter what I do I'm going to have to make payments. It's really coming down to do I want to spend $26 for brand new and 0 miles or $18 for 7 years old and 80k miles..

Transit Connect lwb

I've decided to buy a transit connect for my business (handyman), but i am struggling to determine whether or not to buy new or used. The point of this purchase is to improve my business's image and have something more practical to work out of. A bare bones connect 2022 model is about $26k. I have found that a decent used one (clean body w/ minor imperfections, 100k miles and 8 years old) is still commanding 17k and up. For whatever reason 2017 model and newer are what the internet says are the best years. These are going for 20k and up. Just looking for advice. Given the market is it worth it to just buy new? What experience do you have with transit connects? Are the older models reliable? How many miles is to many? There are a lot of 2015s with 70-110k miles for between 13-17k.

This.

The what?

This 100x. There is nothing Jeep about it.

I think this has already been talked about, but I could not find the thread. My question is how in the fudge did the HP jump from 350 to 750 just from a turbo? From my research and understanding a good turbo set up usually gains an additional 100hp. 100hp gain is pretty impressive, but these guys jumped 400hp with just 15-17psi of boost. Am missing something or is this BS?

How does the 2.8 stack up comparatively to the other diesel options? Mpg/hp/tq. Will it shake your fillings loose like the 4bt? What are the manual trans options? I assume it could be mated to the ax-15, but would you even want to? If money wasn't an issue would it be the engine of choice? My dream is to have a built diesel MJ one of these days. Sort of a jeep version of the hilux. Plated frame, D44 front/rear, lockers front/rear, simple diesel engine. 2k bed capacity, 35mpg and can drive underwater.

Found a sweet all SS, master built grill (model: SQPGD) in a neighbors trash the other day. It was pretty dirty but all the pieces seemed to be there so I decided to bring it home. Cleaned up extremely well on the outside. It is made in china, but it does seem to be made out of a pretty good quality SS. REM barely has any attraction. It is in fact complete. But there are several pieces that I would like to/need to be replaced. Namely the burner. Pic after blasting. The problem I'm running into is parts availability. This grill is a ghost. It's hard to even find images of it let alone parts. I've searched eBay, amazon, bing, google and a host of grill parts website all of which have produced nothing. If anyone has a recommendation or better yet a link to parts it would be very much appreciated. I can't bear the thought of throwing this thing away, but what else can I do if I can't find the parts? Thanks

28, very bottom end of acceptable weight for my height, no genetic disorders/family history to blame. Ever since my first job at a plant nursery I haven't been able to stand on hard surfaces for longer than 10min without being in considerable discomfort, not sharp pain, more like a dull ache/feeling of compression. Last 6-8 inches of my spine is where it's at, pops when I bend over. I was medically DQed from joining the coast guard because of it, actually all branches of military. Honesty johnny that I am, I reported I had occasional lower back pain in my initial paperwork. ☹️ MEPS said I had "lumbago". Despite two outside physicians clearing me for active duty, I was still DQed.

Unladen, not accounting for air speed velocity of course. Bob's or Arse?

Front pinion bearing is toast. If I'm not mistaken this requires a full disassembly of the gear case correct? Which means going through the process of setting them up again, back lash, wear pattern and such correct? Does a D30 require case preload or just pinion preload? That would require a case stretcher right? Any good sources for a D30 or D44 master regear kit? It's a high pinion non disconnect, don't know if that matters. Can't remember the year specifically, but it's a later model D30, just before they changed to low pinion.

Neighbors father has it and I learned that another neighbors entire family had it (mother, father, two daughters) all recovered. Mother had worst experience. Out of commission for better part of a month. The mother lost her mother to covid. Client of mine knows two people that died from covid as well. Parents just got test results back the other day, both negative. They live a pretty secluded life so I'm not to worried about them.

Oh heck ya! I know when I got mine it was a sureal moment. Finding a d44 happens to other people not me. Had to pinch myself a couple times. Make sure nobody tails you home to try and steal it.

Rappers, SM influencers, A list celebrities, and their airheaded yet some how absurdly wealthy ilk. This is 100%, concentrated, consumerist, status symbol seeking, look how much money I have, hot garbage. Which is ok I guess. Not everything has to be a bare bones white work truck. The on the fly lift height adjustment was cool though.

👍

I personally don't think a 4L is the right move, even stroked. She just don't have the pawr. Like you said, the cost is an issue for one AND reliability another. Even with a couple decades now of R&D I still hear about people wiping out cam lobes all-the-time. A diesel swapped gladiator is a dream of mine, but can be costly. I don't think you'll be happy with anything short of a V8 or diesel. Trans 700r4, 4l60e, 4l80e for auto NV4550 for manual? I've heard good things about cummins 5/6 speed manuals Dana 300 t-case (twin stick?) Or maybe atlas? Can't remember what the diesel ford's run but novak seems to think they're indestructible. It may be sacrilege, but just food for thought. My brother had an old non turbo 7.3 single cab short bed with dual 4in side pipes right under the driver side. Sounded like a machine of friggin war whenever he started it. Wasn't so bad at idle, but it had the deepest roar/bark I've ever heard, like nothing else.

Gopher it.

Sorry pete. Should have been more clear. I ment where do i buy gears. Brand and such. Are all dana 44 gears created equal? What should i look for in a kit?

So one question that hasn't been answered yet is gears. Where? Who? Is it as simple as googling "dana 44 "x" ratio? Or does it have to be more specific?

Good to know.

I checked out the DIY in your sig. Even the "easy" disc conversion is pretty involved. I converted my 8.25 to disc, but that was a snap in comparison. I think i might just keep the drums after all.

Alright! Thats what i wanted to hear.