ftpiercecracker1

Is this a factory MJ topper? Ranch brand, looks like it fists perfect. Should I buy? I have no use.

Disclaimer: I have never put a sbc into an mj. BUT, I have read countless threads regarding the operation and have a j10 that does have a sbc/t400 in it. Currently working on it too. Easiest path forward with least amount of work, which will still be a lot of work. No gauges. Manual choke mechanical fuel pump Power to distributor Power to cooling fans New off shelf generic ignition switch 1 wire from batt to switch, 1 wire from switch to dis, 1 wire from switch to starter solenoid custom trans mount custom motor mounts, lower for hood clearance. custom length drive shafts Transmission adapter, if needed Cooling will be a significant factor, might have to cut hood vents. I don't think a custom rad is required, but a good quality two row all aluminum rad with two high cfm fans would be a good starting point. You will most likely need to massage the fire wall. How much? Dunno. Probably not nearly as much as would be needed to fit a 4.0 also will need to cut trans tunnel to accommodate where the shifter will come through. also also, which side is the t-case on. MJs use driver drop. I wish you the best of luck. If you would please consider documenting the process so the rest of us can enjoy the build.

I was in Charleston, SC last week. Saw this lovely site outside a post office downtown. Anybody here? Bench seat, bone stock, 2wd, auto. Didn't want to draw suspicion so I only snapped the one pic. Didn't have any cards on me either.

Ya it's got to be sucking air from somewhere. But I'm not convinced it is the source of the problem. Don't need vacuum for anything anymore. A/C doesn't work and don't need heat. Front axle swap to a non CAD D30 also.

Update: Back from short drive. Syptoms the same, but are all over the place. Sometimes going slow. 35mph try to accelerate and it won't, sometimes high mph like 45 to 55. Then one time it accelerates smoothly all the way up to 80mph. The one thing that is consistent is it always does it when trying to accelerate or maintain speed. I don't know what happened the first time I tested the fuel pressure, but when I tried again I could not get it to work. It seems like something is missing from the fuel pressure tester, something that was supposed to depress the Schrader valve. How it worked the first time I have no idea, because nothing has changed between then and now. I decided to take out the Schrader valve, AFTER bleeding off pressure from fuel rail. I noticed while bleeding it there was a lot of air coming out. Have a video, going to try and upload it and post a link. Also, found a small vacuum leak. The smaller feed line for the vacuum ball had broken off leaving it just sucking air. I found where it attached to the intake and capped it. Don't think that it was causing any real issues, but figured I might as well.

Update: Fuel pressure is good. 30/32psi idling w/vac, 40psi without vacuum, pressure instantly jumps several psi when you rev it. NOTE: I conducted this test after the truck had sat for several days and was totally ice cold. Going for drive now to warm it up and test again.

Glad you got her going. My starter is going too, same problem. I just cycle the key a whole bunch of times until the starter catches. It's working for now, but I need to fix it before it leaves me in a pickle.

Thanks for all the input fellas. I will update as soon as possible.

Truck starts, idles, and accelerates off idle fine. Problems start when shifting into 4th and 5th gear. Which is approximately 40/45mph. Anyyhing beyond that and the truck just starts spitting, sputtering, coughing and popping out the exhaust. 9 times out of 10, flooring the gas pedal makes the symptoms worse. It accerates somewhat normal one out of ten times when I mat it, but it doesn't last long. It also seems to start at a specific point in the throttle travel. Which would make me think it is the TPS, but I have replaced and adjusted it according to Cruiser's instructions with no change. Ive done it many times so I'm confident I did it right. Need to test fuel pressure, think the pump is original, but unsure. Figure it's either, TPS, MAP, or fuel pump. Ballast too.

Sorry, never bought one, but it looks sweet. Seems like a pretty low price too, given all the extras and special cut outs. Despite the limited reviews they all seem to be positive. After a brief skim, the biggest complaint I saw was the bumper is coated with a "baked enamel" instead of a real powder coat treatment. Go for it and let us know.

He will be dearly missed. I am grateful to have been apart of this forum long enough to have had the good fortune of hearing some of his words of wisdom.

MJs had a factory winch option?

Not really MJ related, but to technical for the pub I feel. Can an XJ fuel gauge be setup to run stand alone? Can I just yank it out the cluster and apply power/grd/signal and get it to work? My brother and I have finally gotten around to working on our j10 and would like to put in a fuel tank and functioning gauge. We had the thought of getting a Cherokee fuel tank, sending unit and gauge since they are easy to come by and cheap. But I don't know if it can be removed from the cluster and operated as a stand-alone gauge.

Somebody took the room temperature challenge.

I've reviewed the replies in the thread thus far and the only post you (Legion) have submitted thus far has had nothing to do with the topic at hand. It should go without saying that whatever someone posts here will be of their own opinion. Pointing such things out is not only redundant but unproductive. If you don't have something to say that will further the conversation please do not reply to this thread. Driver, and Legion, if you have an issue with another poster(s) comment please use your personal messaging system to settle your differences and refrain from cluttering what should be a civil discussion with unnecessary school yard banter.

Can someone please explain the situation? Is all out war a real possibility or is it simply sensationalized news grasping at the latest shiny bit of drama trying to get the populace all worked up again? I would like to hear opposing opinions if possible. I expect this to be kept civil gentlemen.

Wireless Remote Control Switch DC12V 10A 433MHz Transmitter with Receiver Features: 100% new and high quality Three output working modes for choosing Safe and flexible for operation and install Widely use in house, mall, electromobile, cars, motorcycle anti-theft alarm system or other control systems Specified as preferred components in remote control garage, roller curtain, door locks, remote sensing, telemetry, industrial control and wireless security alarm industry Specifications: Operating voltage: DC 12V Operating Current: ? 6mA Operating frequency: 433MHz Operating temperature: -40 to + 80 Receiver sensitivity: ?-105dbm Output voltage: DC Output Current: ? 10A Code: Learning code. (Jog/ Non-Locked, Inter-lock/ locked, Auto-lock / Auto-Locked) Output working way: Jog /Non-locked: Press a button is working/ on and loosen your finger on the same button is stop/ off. (A channel change needs a remote control button) Auto-lock: Press one button for one time is working/ on and press the same button is stop/ off. (A channel change needs a remote control button) Inter-lock / locked: Press a button is working/ on and press another button is stop/ off. (A channel change needs 2 remote control buttons) Learning and removing method: 1. Learning method: Press the learning code for 3 seconds. The indicator will be off, and then loosen your finger, press any button of the remote control to transmit signal, the indicator flash 3 times and then normally on which means you learn it successfully. 2. Remove/clean method: Press the learning button about 8 seconds, the indicator will be from being off to on all the time, it means the information that you keep have been removed successfully.

A development! I tested the two points designated by red arrows for continuity with the middle contact. There is continuity on both circuits. When hitting either button, continuity is switched between the two outside contacts. There is no continuity from COM to Batt (+) contact. What concerns me now is the description on the original product ad. It describes this device as having three separate channels of control. I assumed this to mean it would have three separate channels that are capable of being turned on/off completely independent of one another. However, this does not seem to be even close to how it actually functions. It seems that the two channels are connected and dependent on the others position. In other words if one channel is off the other channel is on and vice a versa. At the very least I need two channels that are capable of turning on and off completely independent of one another. When I read the ad, it seemed as though you could program the remote and receiver to except several different initiation codes. Ex. The controller has an "A" and "B" button. I was under the impression that I could program a signal like . . "Rapidly press A button twice to trigger one specific contact" "Press A button once to trigger a second contact" "Press A button to turn on, then press B button to turn off" etc.

Holy chit your fast. Will do.

Holy chit your fast. Will do.

I ordered this universal transmitter and receiver . . . https://www.walmart.com/ip/DC-12V-Relay-433MHz-Wireless-RF-Remote-Control-Switch-Transmitter-Receiver/352956448 . . . . for a project but I am having some problems with it. I can't seem to get any outgoing voltage/signal. The relay clicks when I press the remote button, but all three outgoing contacts are dead. Here are some pictures to help show what's going on. The two points circled in red are on the underside of the PCB and are the only two points on the whole board the switch on/off 12vdc/0vdc. Testing for outgoing signal, black lead on batt (-), red lead on one of three potential outgoing 12vdc signal channels. Dead. Same as above, different signal channel. Also dead. Relay is clicking, I tried both buttons. No outgoing dcv at all. Testing incoming leads. Batt (+) and (-). Good. After talking with the seller they tell me I need to add a jumper wire as shown by the red line the picture above. Batt (+) to the middle outgoing terminal. I think this is fishy. Again the under side of the PCB. This solder trace, I believe, is supposed to be that "jumper wire" I suppose the real question is why can the relay be clicking, but not connecting with the output terminals.?

Seeing how you guys respond to this I wonder how you guys would react to the tire swing I made out of black iron pipe and a shower drain. Or maybe the D-rings on the front bumper I made from horse shoes welded together. Not exactly a repair, but still "redneck" I suppose, as much as I detest that label. To its credit, It's been through hell and back and nothing has ever failed on it.

Stainless steel to boot. Has a latch inside to keep it closed too. Why didn't I think of that!