Abyx

Doesn't matter, in my case. I'm not changing ratios, just replacing the open carrier with a limited slip carrier. The pinion won't be touched, and I just have to set the ring gear backlash as close to where it is now as possible. Oh I know; I'm just asking for my own information.

Does the C8.25 utilize a crush sleeve for the pinion then??

The flex plate should be off of a 87-90 due to the tooth count for the CPS; an HO's flywheel/flex plate has a different count and if you use it in the Renix, your jeep won't fire. If you need the TCU, I have one out of a 91 XJ that you can have for a couple of bucks plus shipping.

Picked up a 29 spline Chrysler 8.25 with 3.55 gears and 80k miles at the local swap meet for 75$. Went down to Blacey's and pulled an entire disk brake set up off of a Grand Cherokee with a D35...I wallowed out the centering hole on the backing plates and the bolt holes with a file and they bolted right on. Cut off the spring perches and re-welded them, cut off the shock mounts and made some new mounts out of em. I have a set of 6.5 coils in the mail, along with a set of CA drop brackets, and I scored an RE adjustable track bar + bracket at the swap meet...that'll all be going in once I get my parts

Go bleed it until it holds good solid pressure; then tighten ALL of the fittings, every single one. One of them is loose. A fitting can be fluid tight but not air tight.

I had this problem recently. I'm not that good at welding sheet metal; but I haven't had a problem since. I made both reinforcement plates outta 3/16".

Looks good man, where in NJ are you? I feel like I've seen your truck(the new one) before.

Frame cracked at the steering box. Welded it as best as I could after drilling out the cracks and hitting it with a hammer. Then I plated it with 3/16 steel on both sides. It's hard getting a good bead on this sheet metal they call a frame. At least they hold. Steering is a whole lot more responsive now! :thumbsup:

Yes sir; just make sure the transmission is in neutral otherwise you're gonna have fun fishing for gears. It's not too hard to do; but only because I've done it so many times. I remember the first time trying to find 1st gear took me awhile. It's fairly simple once you pull it apart..basically just a ball joint with a sleeve and a finger on the bottom of the ball joint; then the collar that holds everything together and presumably seals it(there are no gaskets involved which is questionable).

I've thought of filling through the shifter hole, but it seems like such a pain. But if i strip one of these plugs, i guess that is what i'll have to do. :wall: It's really not as hard as you'd think; remove the center console, remove the floorpan boot; take a 10mm socket and ratchet wrench, zip off the 3 bolts holding the shifter plate on...make sure it's in neutral, pull up and you're golden. Just be careful not to overfill. :thumbsup: Also, while the shifter is out; I'd give all the contact points a good greasing..you'll see what I mean when you disassemble if you never have.

Early model Chevy S-10s don't have a pop off tailgate..you have to unbolt them. Ask me how I know. :yes:

Did the Closed to Open cooling system swap today; I'm not quite positive what I've been reading about with people saying that the closed system runs hotter....no it doesn't; not on my truck. :hmm: Overall I'm really happy about having the open system again...I flushed out my 'open' radiator really good, all my hoses...found my lower radiator hose didn't have a coil spring in it to prevent collapse - I had one laying around so I installed that along with the proper heater valve. It's much cleaner under the hood; I'll even be making up some brackets to hold up my HO overflow bottle in a fairly clean set up. Few things to tackle now; My original closed radiator was pulled because I thought the bottom cooling row was rotting through...as it turns out; it's not - the bottom support brace is rotten, but it doesn't affect the use of the radiator. The radiator is also a full brass set up in 'GREAT' condition aside from the bottom rust. The 'new' Open radiator is out of my cherokee, good internally, good externally..however it doesn't have a place for the thermal switch; is the plastic variant and it rattles in the shroud...not too happy about that. So I'm trying to weigh my options...the swap today cost me nothing but time and 20$ for coolant and distilled water....do I drop another couple bucks on an alternative fill cap and splice that in and use the brass radiator(simply because...and I wouldn't have to do any wiring), OR do I just use my(perfectly fine) plastic radiator, splice the fan onto a switch and call it a day? Hmm decisions... Not positive on what I want to do. The brass sure is nice to have; but it sure isn't 'necessary'.. :wrench:

The most common thing that I've seen is the hardlines aren't crimped correctly; which causes the seal to 'kinda' seat well....but once the pressure is applied in just the right spot, it blows out. It seems to be common among 'all' slaves...every brand I've seen has had the same problem. I can't imagine there's all that many companies making a special use part for an uncommon vehicle that's over 20 years old? :dunno: I had really good experience with a LUK slave cylinder....I removed the tranny 3 times trying to get the clutch to function - each time, even without releasing the pressure the cylinder didn't rupture itself or fail. I drove it like that for 2 months, and as far as I know it still works and is sitting in my pile of parts.

:fs1: :wall: :grrrr: :headpop: 1)All vice grips, except vice grip brand are junk. 2)Irwin (company) bought vice grip 3)All vice grip brand vice grip production was shipped to china. 4)All vice grips now suck. :wall: I can't argue that; but considering that my vice grips will support a couple hundred pounds of weight and spring tension from garage doors...I'd hesitate to call them junk. :dunno: Except when they wear out and pop open; in which case they become junk. ;)

I've never been a fan of the Craftsman style ratchets; but their wrenches never let me down. I use a 1" wrench on any size wrench as a breaker bar...haven't broken one yet. Personally my toolbox is as follows - Snap on ratchet and breaker bar(paid 35$ total for at a swap meet, had ratchet rebuilt) Craftsman wrenches(Most of them were free, or I get them at flea markets for 1-2$ a piece) Harbor freight sockets(Never broken or stripped one yet...I've beaten the hell out of these, and only paid 8$ per set..they're color coded too.) Genuine vice grips; and a few other odds and ends...box weighs about 50 pounds and fits nicely behind my seat. The only thing I've needed aside from what's in my box are power/air tools and half inch drive sockets(don't have many of them!). I've never needed anything more working on any of my jeeps or any one elses' for that matter.

Around here an AX-15 trans can go for 400-600$..just the trans. Personally I went a little further west and paid 200$ for an external slave AX-15, matching 231, cross member, drive shafts and shifter with 90k miles.

This is the boot for the actual shifter arm on the transmission itself; it's not the floor pan boot which is what he seems to be looking for.

Well damn, alright then. Need a brand new radiator for it? Hahaha.

Check to see if the Cherokee radiator has a plastic cap in place of where the thermal switch is. You might get lucky - I've bought open radiators that still had the spot for the thermal switch. I'll do that. I think I remember seeing a plug when I yanked the radiator out; I could only be so lucky. I'd be even more lucky if early model grand cherokee radiators are the same as Cherokee radiators; because I have access to a brand new one for nothin'! :yes:

I have all of the parts off of my Cherokee to do this swap; my question is what do you do with the thermal switch on the Renix Radiator? A friend of mine told me you wire it into a newer style thermostat housing pigtail and plug it into said housing...is that true?

Oh definitely, the cable upgrade was by far a worthwhile upgrade. Seems to have done a lot for my sensors in general; the jeep has a bit more pep in her step. I haven't looked at my brakes mostly because the problem appears to have completely ceased; I suppose it could be attributed to an electrical issue.

That's true...I took a trip up to New Hampshire last September and the moment anyone up there found out I was from New Jersey; it was all just down hill. It didn't help that I'm naturally tanned during the warmer months. It was funny up until you mentioned your keys being locked in after your windows separated from the tracks and fell into the door. :D On a side note; I finished a ground refreshment including several 4g cables. Funny enough, my volt meter went from 13v to 14.5 on the dash. :thumbsup: Now to fix my leaky injectors - again.

That just ain't right... What about the Pine Barrens? Or hell, Tabernacle itself.

Easy on the Jersey hating...I try to look past it's horrible legal system and it's high taxes...I quite like the scenery around here. :D

No, I mean 86. The truck is an 87, the actual gauge cluster I purchased here on the forum from another member was labeled as being out of an 88. However the older style steel cup speedo cable input leads me to believe that it's for an 86 considering the speedometer cable that I now have for it - is from an 86 2.8l Longbed. Which would probably explain why my tach reads wrong; however my tach is not adjustable unfortunately, so I'm stuck with a 1000rpm idle. :D :D Thank you, though! I'm happy I stuck with it as well; I can't begin to describe how much more I like it compared to my old cherokee.