Abyx

I'm unable to post a picture from my phone. The grease trick is not working, I might be doing it wrong but its just not coming. I've been slide hammering it for almost two hours now, the whole truck is moving and the Spacer is NOT. I don't know what to do.

Believe me man I'm pretty stuck myself. I started the swap on mine yesterday and whats preventing me from going forward is the pilot bearing Spacer, I can't get the thing out. Maybe what you should try doing before you go any further is remove the clutch rod from the pedal armature and put it 'behind' the armature and use it to depress the MC as far as you can and have a helper try manipulating the shifter. That's what I originally did. I just finished bolting in my modified YJ MC slave and modified pedal...everythig still lines up. Where did you get your throwout bearing from? theres no reason they'd be different between years, its all the same drive train.

I feel like that's either a great idea or it will completely screw me if I miss and weld the spacer to the shaft. Not too thrilled about that idea to be honest... Does anyone else have any ideas? I'm gonna try slide hammering it again, if I gotta die grind it out I will....really rather not though.

I lalalalooooveee these tires. I have a set of 31x10.5r15s to go on my MJ on a set of Dwindow rims, they ride really nice and hold their own off road as long as you don't expect too much from them. I'd describe them as an aggressive highway tire. My experience with them has been excellent, and they wear great. I'm not so sure what kind of experiences Automan has has had, but my brother in law put a set of them on a Bravada almost 5 years ago now...my sister in law is still driving on them. They're about half worn down by now.

Hey guys I'm sorry if this has been covered somewhere I'm typing this on my phone because I'm more or less stranded at my friends' house trying to figure this out. I'm doing the AX15 swap in my MJ and I'm having the problem of removing that spacer out of the crank shaft. What's the trick? I have tried everything I can think of. In order of action - Hammer and punch attempting to bend it out. custom made slide hammer vice grip S shape screw driver combo welded together Actual pilot bearing on a slide hammer remover too big to fit Drill out pilot bearing with 3/4 drill bit and oblong hole to fit puller. Spacer laughs at puller so much that whole truck shakes trying to yank it out. Currently I've got some ATF sitting on it since that's all I've got and I'm letting it sit overnight. I really don't wanna be stuck here all day again tomorrow, does anyone have any suggestions? To think, welding in nutserts on the frame was easier than doing this stupid bearing It's times like these when I really can justify investing in a torch. :/

Until it breaks. :/ Great idea for temporary use; really is...but I again stress the rubber hose portion is there 'for a reason'.

You can always get another pedal and do it. I was stuck with the YJ one so this was my only option. I also have the fully plastic assembly, bought as one unit so I was really stuck with it. If you're local to me you can have the old pedal out of my MJ to cut up once I do my swap if that helps at all.

I forgot there was a bit more to it than just cutting and welding the apparatus; I also had to dremel out the arm a little bit so as to clear the bracket assembly on the firewall. This DOES work, what happens is the pedal runs out of room before the MC is fully acuated; so if you extend the throw, so that the MC gets depressed more before the pedal hits the floor...it works. Here are pictures of what I did at 2am in a desperate attempt to get to work the next morning - Yes I did have to modify the flange on the MC...you trim the bottom half and re-drill the stud hole. There are a total of three holes in the firewall, they're all 1 inch apart from one another.

I actually had the same problem with my '91 XJ when I did the AX15 swap in it...I used a YJ MC+Slave pre-bled setup. It only worked half way. My solution was to remove the clutch pedal, cut the spot welds on the hinge portion, 'rotate' the aparatus back about an inch, and re-weld it....worked like a charm for a year and 30,000 miles. I actually have the pedal out of my XJ in prep to swap it to my MJ, I can snap a pic later if you like.

They're splined in. Use some kind of applicable force to remove them, either a press, a hammer, an air hammer or a hammer.

3" Old Man Emu Coils Black Diamond Front Shocks Procomp Rear Shocks Rough County Shackle Dana 30 w/3.55 gear ratio and solid axle shafts AX-15 w/ External Slave NP231 New clutch/pressure plate Stock tow hooks(way better than nothing) OEM cat welded to Cherrybomb Turbo 97+ Brake booster and MC Some other misc crap. It was a long day.

But if the rears lock up before the front, it's like riding a bike - you want all the rear braking power you can get before you want the power from the fronts. Am I the only one who pumps my brakes and 'lets go' if they lock up? I don't even run a preportioning valve in my cherokee, and I've NEVER had problems.

Oh okay, do you ever come around New Egypt? There's only two MJs on the road that I know of...Aaron's at No Excuses and another black 2.8l...is that you?? I decided to begin stripping my cherokee yesterday.

I've always wondered - what's the downside to the rears locking before the fronts? Wouldn't you want it that way? Personally I just plugged the preportioning valve and ran a single hardline back.

Hey man good work on fixing your truck, I just wanted to point out that you said you 'made' a new clutch line? I wanted to warn you that there's a rubber section of that hose for a reason, if you have a straight piece of brake line, yeah it will work - but it will break at the worst possible time so be careful of that. The rubber section is to compensate for vibration and the shifting of the motor/trans. I'd get the replacement hose asap, Napa sells them for about 25$.

I'm not too familiar with Chesterfield, where's that by? Finally got my keyboard working again; the brand new pack of batteries that I bought dead almost made me get a new keyboard. Damn things. Anyway, truck has been driving great, so far I've taken it down to Camden to pickup materials for my father's Cabinet Shop(shameless plug), to Doylestown, PA to be dumped officially and to Longbranch, NJ. Truck drives great! I'm getting it inspected tomorrow and I'm going to be replacing the trans probably within the week....5th gear whines, 2nd and reverse pop out of gear at the worst times and my transfercase is grenaded, which explains the hole in the case I mentioned awhile back. Good news is, I put my upgraded mirrors on it, and my jeep seems to be getting over 25 miles to the gallon; I think I'm crazy though because that can't be right. I gotta drive it some more before I can make that assumption. Also, the VIN reader was wrong, I scraped the badly sprayed on paint off of the engine tag on the firewall and discovered it IS a factory 6, so my rears are matching. Either way I'm throwing a Dana 30 with 3.55s in it and some kind of upgraded rear with 3.55s in it when I do my lift - to match my 31s. More updates to come.

Haha ill probably be scrapping there tomorrow! I'm outta Jackson. Are you in what, Wrightstown? Made the maiden Voyage today! She needs a tune up real bad but she'll still do 80 down the highway with no problems. I love the way this truck drives and handles. Super quiet on the inside, tight steering, ect. Really happy with my new truck. :) The bad news, is I ran the VIN number today....apparently my truck at one point was a 4 cylinder. I also know that the rear axle was swaped. I also know that after changing the gear oil, something struck me a little funny about the ring gears...I think I might have 4.10s in the front and 3.07s in the rear. :(

This Also, run your hands along the sides of the tirewalls, and feel for any abnormal bumps...there generally is at the most one bump, which is the belt joint in the side wall...if you feel more than that, I'd try another set of tires on the rear and see if it goes away. I had the problem of belt separation in a set of Uniroyals I had gotten for free...they made all kinds of weird noises, vibrations and made my jeep jump all over the road. If I hit a bump good enough, my rear end would chatter sideways across the pavement. It was scary, but I got used to it.

Is it turning over but just not firing? Check your Crank Position Sensor.

Looks like a good starting point! Good luck man! Have you ever rebuilt an engine?

First bumper made. I kept it simple because 1. I'm not gonna be pulling off of it, so I just tied into the stock bumper brackets that were sticking out. 2. It's going to be expanded on in the future. I used 3/16" 2x4" Box tube, got it from Fazio's in Wall, 80$ for 12'...I'd say that's a pretty damn good price. I had the 3/16" angle laying around, it's 3x3" for those curious. I used grade 5 bolts, because again...not pulling off of it, and grade 5 is more inclined to bend rather than sheer which grade 8 does. Coated it with Rustoleum(crap) self etching primer and gloss black. I cut and tapped threads for the bumper flap(you can't really see it, it goes inbetween the two mounts and is off of a stock cherokee bumper), I also cut and tapped threads for the license plate light and mounting points. 1/4" threads. :thumbsup: Obligatory Weld shot(I'm not a professional) - Brackets - Bumper! -

That's a pretty neat trick, I'll have to remember that..unfortunately, if I could get a nut on enough to actually thread it tight, I'd have no problem! I can't thread a nut back on, the threads are bad, haha. I might try re-tapping the threads for the fun of it, but I can't imagine it will work. I do have another manifold, but I'd raaather not have to swap them out since that's a bit of a job...especially considering it's a job I'm not looking to do at the moment.

Is it exclusively the front, exclusively the back or both? If it's both on one side, I'd check the turn signal switch...if you can get another one, just unplug it at the bottom of the steering column and plug the new one in and give her a whirl. Other things to consider is the flasher relay, and the bulbs. If you testlight the connections on the end(ground the cable, stick the tip into the light socket with the signal activated to see if you're getting power), will give you a better idea of where to start from. Flasher relays are about 8$ Turn signal switch about 25$(have to disassemble the column to properly replace this, it's really not too bad) A test light is about 3$. Have at 'er!

I did a search on this, I couldn't find anything..just looking for some pointers here. The P/O did a complete hackjob repair on the exhaust on my truck, to top it off, he had new pipes bent up and everything..except they're all the wrong sizes so they're crushed together with exhaust clamps, it's a complete mess, and I'm not looking to replace it...however I had to fix it, as the cat rotted off the muffler. I fixed that part. Now the problem I'm having, is the exhaust manifold studs are completely phuk-ed. They're stripped out and rotten, my question is how can I go about replacing them? Do I have to pull the manifold and drill them out? Can I just use an air-chisel and beat them out with the manifold in the vehicle? Can I use a hammer and punch? They're seized in there pretty good, I don't wanna risk cracking the manifold...so what would be my best option? I was hoping to have this done and the truck on the road either tomorrow or Saturday; but if I have to pull the manifold it's gonna wait. :(

I've had good experience with LUK Clutch products(Pepboys), at the 4x4 shop I used to work at we ran exclusively Crown or Napa bought parts. Crown was used because we bought Jeep parts in bulk, Napa was used when we didn't have something in stock. Personally I always go with the middleman in pricepoints...I paid 70$ for my LUK internal slave. Go with something that feels good in your hand. Also, I can't imagine there are a huge amount of companies that actually make these stupid things..so..really, what are you buying? Just a thought.