Abyx

Gauge cluster! The tachometer is off by approx 300rpms; and the seller misinformed me as it being an 88, when it's actually any 86; awesome. No adjustable tach here. All the other gauges work(now), though. I tried rolling back the miles to match that of my other cluster; but I failed miserably when I discovered that this cluster is an 86, and therefor not easily change-able, without removing the speedometer plate which involves removing the needle. Not gonna bother; so instead I just did this. :D Rotella change!! Runs real nice on this stuff compared to the cheap oil I had in it before. Chillin' at Collier's Mills, local preserved land park, anyone local to central Jersey will probably recognize this area. Doin' work and hauling a 500 pound load of scrap.

Oddly enough, the chuga-lug has seem to have disappeared. I changed my oil and fixed my speedometer cable...that's about it. Oh and yesterday I added a ground from the battery to the radiator support; but it hasn't happened since this past Thursday to begin with, so I'm not positive here. Either way, thanks for the suggestions guys!

No time right now, hah. The same reason my jeep still doesn't have a properly calibrated tachometer, or a functioning speedometer, or front and rear matching gear ratios. New Jersey does have it's strange ways... Something I noticed today; generally when this happens it tends to be very foggy out...could this be related to the MAP sensor? Because I have a spare.

I did plan to upgrade my grounds in the future, but for now I'm going to have to leave them. My TPS did adjust very oddly...I tested it and got a refrence voltage of 4.87, so I adjusted it to 0.82v(originally 0.54v)...caused a screaming idle, I had to adjust it back down to 0.48v and it idles pretty good now.

Of course, what I meant was what do you think that could do to presumably the engine? The temperature has been rather warm lately; staying warm even into the night. Tomorrow it's supposed to be 80* out. I'm not even sure that this random occurrence is even an issue...it could just be a 'ghost' in the machine kind of deal. It's just very strange, and I've never encountered it before.

What would that attribute to?? I don't quite understand. As a matter o'fact I have. All the engine harness sensors were re-cut, re-crimped and soldered at the factory splices when I tore apart my harness to fix the melted O2 sensor wires. I didn't add any grounds; but according to my multimeter I don't have any resistance issues, so I didn't see fit to add grounds. The C101 connector was cleaned twice, as well.

Just wanted to say that I really enjoy reading this build thread! Not sure why, but I'm digging the wagon wheels/whitepaint/chrome toolbox combo. The TDI helps a lot too. :D Keep it up!

It's happened with them off; but most of the time yes. I'm running a 100amp Alt and a Optima redtop on the stock wiring harness.

So, call me crazy, but I'm pretty sure that the time of day should have nothing to do with the operation of a vehicle....right? Right? Well, either it does, or my Jeep is infused with the angry spirit of what I'm going to assume is a woman; she's already punched me in the mouth(Swaybar miraculously fell and hit me in the mouth...was spitting blood for an hour), left me stranded twice and then continues to demand I give her what she wants. This does NOT happen during the day; but I'll be driving and completely random, the truck sort of jumps. It feels like an automatic transmission is shifting really hard, or that the rear tires leave the ground for just a moment. Following that it drives completely like normal; my tach shows no change, nothing seems to actually happen...except the automatic transmission that I didn't know that I had feels like shifting. This happens under acceleration, under deceleration, during cruising; it happens with all brands of gas, happens if I have a load in the bed, a passenger, ect ect, it will happen at ANY time; and mostly on long dark roads when I'm alone. The only way I can narrow it down, is that it doesn't do it if I'm off the gas...and at night. Has only happened once during the day; happens at least 3-4 times at night just about every night. I'm not even sure it's a problem; but does anyone have an idea? I don't have an O2 sensor or a functioning speedometer; that's the only thing I can even relate to the problem.

:???: Do tell, do tell?

It was the ignition switch, the 14 gauge yellow wire was the culprit in the connector. I would imagine that it was the O2 sensors' fault, considering everything relating to the O2 sensor was mostly melted. Do you guys think a lack of an O2 sensor would cause a random stumbling idle/engine tries to die when you let off the gas slowly?

Ignition switch. Replaced it; jeep fired right up. Thanks again for the help, Cruiser.

After having read my service manual a little bit more I believe you're talking about the upper most connector on the relay block. No power with the key on, the other two have power though.

I'm sorry, I'm still a little confused as to what you're refering to. I'm just not seeing it. I'm going off the assumption that you're refering to the plug that connects into the ECU; and to confirm...I do not have power in any of the 30 connectors with the key on, battery connected and fusible links jumped..It's entirely possible that I have the wrong fusible links jumped, but as far as I can tell I do. Using another doner computer from a '90 Renix automatic..I still have 'nothing'. So, I'm not getting power somewhere?

I'm sorry, I'm having trouble finding the 'Connector 30' you mentioned. Which plug? There's the O2 sensor relay that's wired directly into the harness...are you talking about the ECU connector? That's the only plug I can find that has over 30 pins to have a connector 30.

There were some melted together; up on the firewall I believe it's connector C116, it diverts off of the engine harness right before C101 and connects to the firewall harness right as it jumps through the firewall. If I'm not mistaken, that's the harness for the engine sensors to the ECU. Do you think there are more melted? Also, a new symptom is none of my gauges indicate; meaning when I turn the key on..literally nothing happens. I had tried swapping around the relays, but nothing seems to work, maybe I can swap them all from my Cherokee to be safe. It just baffles me because I was driving it literally a minute prior to it not starting.

I'm pretty sure...I was told the ballast resistor is a little white ceramic resistor with two wires running to it...the thing that I jumped(having thought it was the resistor, but didn't know any better simply due to lack of knowledge), has two vacuum lines running to the intake and EGR diaphragm on the side of the intake, and is black.

Hey guys, I did a bunch of searching, I can't seem to find a thread that isn't about the CPS. 87 4.0 Renix/Manual trans I have a no start issue, the fuel pump does not run, and there is no spark. However, it ran fine up until I shut it off and went to restart it. Things I tried so far up until a stranger towed me home - Confirmed Fuel Pump activates by jumping power from battery to pump Swapped Relays Ran Jumper wire from Fusible Link G to Starter Relay Disconnected/Reconnected CPS Confirmed all electrical connections are connected. Now get this, it was running fine up until the other night when it started sputtering and almost dying....like the fuel pump wasn't functioning. I ended up pulling over because I was afraid it wouldn't go much further....I ended up being right - it wouldn't start after that...I was having the same issue, no fuel, but I had spark. I originally thought the ballast resistor was bad, but it turns out that I don't actually have one...I had jumped two wires for an EGR valve on the fender well, and miracuously it started after that...I don't quite know what I did to get it to go, because it just suddenly worked. Today, having no issues with it, having started it, driven it and run it several miles since that issue; I started to smell burning plastic with a full load of scrap in the bed - I decided to pull over into a church parking lot to find the front half of the O2 sensor harness smoking. I shut the truck off, pulled the sheathing off and found....nothing wrong. The wires were extremely hot, though. I later found the O2 sensor guts have disconnected from the actual sensor and were touching the front differential - I'm thinking it was grounding itself and getting excessively hot and smoking...I go to restart the jeep to turn around and head home - nothing. Several hours later, a complete stranger towed me home in exchange for a front drive shaft I had laying around, and I'm now I'm stuck with a truck that doesn't start and has a full load of scrap in it. My dad found a couple of wires that were melted together on a small connector off the injector harness that goes into the top of the firewall; still no start after repairing those. I had called the local jeep shop and for the most part I was told the computer is fried. But, I want to get second opinions, I also want to know 'why' my computer fried? Is it because of the O2 sensor? Those wires? The fact that I'm running a 100amp Alternator? What would/could it be?? IS my computer fried? Any ideas here??

I don't know where you guys get these prices...either it's because I'm under 25 or it's because I live in New Jersey. I pay 150$/month for my 87MJ...it's actually 143$ or something stupid like that, but it's easier to round it up to 150 in the end. And to think, my insurance went down switching to this truck.

:fs1: :cheers:

The mounts are completely different because there's actually two mounting locations on the frame rails; one that's located further forward(Puegot trans), and one that's located about 3" back for the AW4/AX15 trans. Odds are your weld nuts are rotted out in the frame too...hope you have access to a welder. This happened to me at 11pm at night trying to get my truck out of my friends' garage...luckily I had two weld nuts and my welder with me, though.

You want little tires in front and big in the back??? 31x10.5r15 in the back and 215/70/r15s in the front. About a 3" difference in tire sizes. :wrench:

Damn; a bobbed shortbed! I have yet to see one of these and this is actually really cool! Keep us updated!

The pads are on incorrectly; you know how when you remove a brake caliper you unbolt it, and then pry it backwards away from the mount, and it pivots on one end away from the mount? It's impossible to do that with this, because there is no pivot point...both ends are secured on the steering knuckle. I just don't know how people do it; but here's my latest P/O failure - Custom pipes bent wrong. Great.

I yelped when I saw that. I'd consider leaving it that color too....'just because'.