aemsee

Just sounds like the OPS is going bad. Either pick one up from parts store and throw it in, or find someone with a mechanical OP guage to check it for sure.

If it is on a switch it will stay on constantly. The prime/ then off is part of the ECU, which is no longer controlling the pump. The pump is just a motor, power&ground= running. Lose one and it shuts off. When the truck is running the pump runs contantly, you just don't hear it.

Does it quit while moving, or after he comes to a stop and tries to accelerate again? Is it 4x4 or 2wd? If 4wd, what t-case is in it?

When I was 16 or 17 I had to pull the axle shaft out of my mom's Delta 88 to change a seal. Someone at the shop ( it was at an auto shop at an army base) told me to just force the C clip off. Fortunately there was a Chiltons there so I just looked it up. Hadn't thought about that experience in almost 30 years until this post :D

What do you mean by "dies"?

You will need to remove the bolt holding the spidergear pinion shaft in. It is either 1/4 or 5/16 , possibly 12 pt. It helps if you have a friend over. Have the pinion gear shaft positioned so that it is at an angle and will slide out of the carrier (like 2:00/8:00 position). Let the pinion shaft slide out far enough to allow the axle shaft to move in and liberate the C clip, but not enough to come out of the lower pinion gear. This will keep the side gears from rotating and the pinion gears from falling out. Have your friend remove the shaft and either install the new one, or slide the pinion shaft back in place and slip the retaining pin in while you check the condition of the axle bearing and seal.

Actually, it would be the choke stuck closed. Change the oil, change the plugs and fire it up with the air cleaner lid off. The choke plate should open up about an 1/8 inch immediately by the vacuum choke pull off. As the engine runs the choke stat will start to open the plate up the rest of the way. There should be a single wire running to the choke stat. Check it for a good 12 volts with the Jeep running if the choke doesnt open up. The back fire and flames could have just been from excess fuel in the exhaust, if you are lucky. I've seen mufflers blown wide open from this same situation. Keep us posted.

That may not be the best of ideas. In case of a wreck etc you don't want your fuel pump running after the engine is off. At least make the switch large and easy to reach in case you get trapped in the cab and you smell something burning. I know how you Texas boys like your BBQ's, but I don't think you want to be the main entree :D !

Are you talking about the V6 carbed one? Could just be the choke plate isn't opening up due to a bad choke coil. Or the float could stuck, or the fuel needle could be stuck. Not real common on the crap varijets, but the bad choke is common.

Those may be fine for you southern boys, but a scotch lock will rot before your very eyes up here in the salt belt. Old Jeeps have enough electrical problems without adding more by choice. Solder and self sealing shrink tubing is the only way to go in NY :D .

Sis must have been grateful. I wish we would get some snow already. Dec 28th and NOTHING!!

I've got a 88 short box w/ no engine sitting in my yard. I've been picking little parts off of it. Box pretty rusty and drivers floor rusted through, but the frame is OK. Also no steering box. You can have it if you want to trailer it away from Rochester, NY.

And they're not even allowed to play violent video games!

If you are still running stock length control arms, find a set of lower WJ arms from a JY. They are boxed and curve away from the tire and will eliminate this rub. The front bushing needs to be modified by driving it all the way over to one side and then cut to the proper width. Very easy to do. I modified a set for my 93 ZJ and ran them for several years to eliminate rub.

If you are basically happy with the 2.5, stick with it.

Very nice. Bought my wife a 04 WJ three years ago. Actually did the old "wrap the key" deal and put it under the tree. She will certainly love it when the snow starts to fly. (Just get rid of the running boards)

Fill it back up and find the leak. You may also want to drop the pan and change the filter before filling it.

Nice. Our own ComancheClub girls gone wild thread :chillin:

Don't you hate it when knowledge sneaks up on you like that :D

I was wrong. Is is the same 3.0 displacement.

Thanks for all the responses. I actually have the full suite of MS Office already, just need some keyboard time I guess.

You would think that everything would be stopped when in neutral. But as someone who has had countless number of vehicles on a lift running in neutral, there is enough viscosity in tranny fluid to get things spinning as long as there isn't any real resistance. If you hesitated in the neutral position of the t-case while shifting it may have been enough to let things start moving in the drive train. A little noise while shifting in to 4 low is not really a big deal.

Simple really. New job teaching for DCX starts in January, and will involve alot of powerpoint stuff. Never used it. Is there a good place to learn it online?

Did it grind as you tried to engage 4 low, or after you started moving?

Did that have a blue dash but grey interior elsewhere? My parts 'manche has a blue interior if you are looking for pieces.