aemsee

Well, you can certainly do what you want, but that is not the correct way to check fuel volume. You are not even supposed to check it through the schrader valve. It is an open line test. If a pump passes using your method then it is certainly OK, but I wouldn't condemn one using that test without verifying failure with an open line. Try using Miller 8978. It is a great tool. Think about it, if you have enough pressure in the rail to keep the Jeep running, then you obviously have a resistance to flow. I have the same Snappy tester. That hose is more for relieving pressure and fuel from the guage than for testing volume. AND, since you brought it up. I have over 25 years as a professional tech, most with Jeep, and 3 1/2 years as a Chrysler Instructor. :D

:no: . do a volume test WITHOUT the engine running. much less chance of it going BOOM :D . if you can't find an exact spec, approx 250 mls in 7 secs is a rough spec for that Jeep.

can't count, nor do I want to remember, how many of those cursed pieces of bovine excrement I had to work on, all under warranty. every piece of that system sucked

I think that fuel pressure is supposed to be 48 psi? If you have 65 at the rail, that is way to high. Are the plugs gas/ carbon fouled when you pull them?

My 13 y.o. is in to sniper rifles AND Legos. I'll have to see if he can copy that. Very cool.

One of my want to have vehicles...Deep Slate 5.9 Limited. A couple of 5.9 owners said they used to do 1/2 93 octane and 1/2 89 when 91 wasn't available. But have no first hand knowledge if it actually worked or not? Since you are in the heat, make sure you aren't running hot. That was always an issue with the 5.9 in the ZJ. They barely stayed cool right from the factory.

Since I have never really had a job that had retirement type benefits, I have never been hesitant to switch employers. I actually wrenched for the same dealership FIVE different times over 20 years, and they would take me back tomorrow if I walked in looking for a job. So I recommend not burning any bridges as you go through your employment life, but life is to short to be miserable for 8 or 10 hours a day just to make a buck. Good luck to ya.

that does not normally go all the way in to a water jacket. Someone must have drilled out a broken stud and gone too far. Did you buy this as a reman engine? If so I would complain to the place you got it from. They owe you a new head.

make sure you are getting good vacuum to the MAP sensor. Low vacuum at the MAP will simulate load causing it to run very rich

I bought KC's for my ZJ a few years back. They immediately rusted and had water issues. They were purchased from quadratec. I have had a few sets of various Hellas. No complaints with any of them.

yeah, I'll probably grab something off e-bay. Just being impatient and wanting it NOW :D . There are a lot of Clymers manual on there. Anyone use them? What quality is the info in them?

what kind of condition was that rear bumper in? did you ask about buying the whole thing?

I'm going nuts trying to wade through all the crap and tricksters. just trying to find a svc manual for the xr75 I just bought. don't even mind paying, but too many sites are just traps. anyone have a SAFE place to get downloads of svc manuals?

picked up the bike today. got it for a bit less than he was asking :D . runs very well. needs shocks rebuilt, couple loose things tightened and cables and brakes adjusted. now to do some research. supposedly last year of manufacture was 79. this bike is tagged with a 6/79 build date but labled as a 1980 model. has a high mount exhaust like the xr80's, and a white metal gas tank instead of red. neat little bike all around.

you stare at every XJ coming at you on the highway to see if it might be another MJ

what happens when you open the glove box door?:)

Yep - missed the D30 mention. :doh: BUT I do think the D30 and D35 use the same crush sleeves. :hmm: there were some d30's that used pinion preload shims instead of crush sleeves as the used set of 4:10's I installed in my 93 ZJ had shims. Got a set from Randys R&P along with full install kit.

I'm sure someone must make a tuckable for the M&P c. (nice lil piece, by the way), but it is great thatyou can make your own. I've made a couple of pocket holsters for my Beretta and P3AT. Wife couldn't figure out why I wanted her old leather purses :)

will the vehicles be on a lift or jack stands? if stands what works well is to have your holder braced against the leaf spring to stop rotation, and use a floor jack against the breaker bar to crush the sleeve. I strongly advise against using any impact gun for crushing the sleeve as the rattling/ hammering of the gun can ruin the new bearing and race

Go big or stay home. If the bigger is about the same price, I would go higher output. At least the 85 amp one. I need to upgrade my 2.5 alt as it barely keeps up with the blower motor and lights at the same time.

Guy in town is selling a 1980 (?) XR75. Asking $350. Looks to be in pretty good condition. Anyone have experience with these 4 strokes? Thanks

A guy at a dealer may have done the swap, but no way was it sanctioned by Chrysler. Chrysler would have had to get it OBD II compliant, warranty it etc, etc. There may have been stuff available through Chrysler for OFF ROAD USE ONLY type of a swap, but nothing legal for the street.

Installed my replacement B pillar lights. Thanks mfpdm. They work great! Much brighter than stock.

A dealer option 5.2/5.9 in a TJ???? What u talkin bout Willis?

I know where there is an all original V8 Hornet Wagon Sportabout. Clean, no rust, garage kept. 304 Auto. Rob L. :brows: Well, I don't see it in your sig so I guess it isn't in your garage.