Jeep Driver

Well what do you know............ Looked up a pic of my original and it has it, different but it has one. Been so long I forgot.

The reason for the 1/8" bearing spacer.

Powermaster.

That was a half-hearted attempt on my part to tell the OP to -look around-. I've seen custom intakes, YT vids......etc........ I won't' bother to look that hard and post up. The late intake, cut and welded......new plenum for carb/Sniper is going to be his best bet to accomplish what he wants. And I agree 1000% that getting rid of the stock trash....ECU, ignition, MPI, is the smart move. As to Clifford or other- Power is made at the head......yeah, I know, many variables, however- Power is made at the head. The 4.0 head is grossly inefficient. Some time back I was looking at flow number CobraMarty and others were touting. 300 intake and something like 180 exhaust. Efficiency worked out to 60-63%........just horrible. And then look at the flow efficiency numbers of the Edelbrock head, worse than the stock head. To this day- I've yet to see any discussion of exhaust valve timing or exhaust scavenging. Or any serious discussion on porting for that matter. Bored throttle bodies and CAIs and all the usual nonsense you find on the Jeep sites......but......you cannot stuff it in if you cannot get it out, this is where everyone fails. Anyway, I say that to say...........whatever he does it's really not going to matter.

Contact Golen to see if they sell their intake separately.

https://www.roughcountry.com/7-degree-tapered-reamer-10405.html https://www.jegs.com/i/Alloy+USA/013/11801/10002/-1?gclid=CjwKCAjwjJmIBhA4EiwAQdCbxgI-_ioCLsLZZuhsQj7PccKtDv2F0DFek29MpSi8glLX84DvfLhoFRoCRHcQAvD_BwE

When I installed the '89 knuckles on the '94 axle this problem became evident- The knuckle was not seating all the way on the upper ball joint. Not a big deal you say? Yeah it is and it's unacceptable. I've seen several photos like this over the years, others have had the same problem. And the reply is always that it does not matter. What matters is that the lower sleeve will not seat on the lower ball joint until it's about 1/4" out of the top of the lower knuckle, well into the seal, and even then the lower does not really tighten up like it should. So, what's wrong? In my case it was clear that the upper taper was distorted, not round and the bottom of the taper was mushroomed in. Solution? Took about four light turnings with the reamer to repair the hole. Much better and the sleeve on the lower is tight and well within the threaded section. Make your own tool, go to Lowes and buy a piece of garbage 3/4 socket and grind it out. Every review I've read of the ones you can buy say they break. Lower is serviceable. Of course I cannot speak to the longevity of the Alloy USA ball joints but they certainly appear to be much better quality than Spicer. Also note that Alloy USA says these ball joints will not fit...well, BS, they do.

It's 32 years old, yes you would.

What does that mean?

https://www.stockinteriors.com/items.asp?ModelId=249&MainCatId=7

Every Wrangler column I can find for sale show the lever.

Pull your plugs and read them.

Column looks like it, or a portion of it, is out of a FSJ, never seen that in an XJ.

What new radiator? Threads like this reoccur over and over again. Why? The problem solvers are going to V8 radiators. Better quality and more options. I alluded to this in my first post when I said to 'look around'. Yeah, more work, some ingenuity.

https://www.dashboarddoctor.com.au/

There are a few companies here in the state that do dash restoration. Surely there is one in Australia. Ask around locally.

Are you looking for performance gain? I got sucked in to thinking like Jeep people, I decide to walk away. Let me give you an example- Cowl induction, somewhat of a gimmick. Even on a Camaro or El Camino or whatever, fresh air at best. Jeep cowl induction? The cowl box is in a low pressure area if not a down right vacuum. For driving over a tree stump...cowls, snorkels, or whatever you cobble up, it really isn't going to matter. Transversely, when doing a rolling romp from 30mph you want cool fresh air rushing into your intake. You've go to get that intake to the grille. Ram-air works. I find Gale Banks somewhat cringey but there is no other when it comes to ram-air designs. Follow his latest project and you'll understand. You are in the performance arena now, it's time to leave the Herd. Doing what you described will gain you nothing. Frankly, may even cost you some horsepower.

These are the headers I've chosen- http://ultimateheaders.com/2017/12/18/small-block-chevy/ I'd say I'll let you know how it works out but if AFR can't or won't ship my my heads......won't matter much. One other reason, or maybe the main reason, I want to make my own engine mounts is so that I can decide where my engine is placed.

I go 75lbs on aluminum wheels. I give my threads just a dab of grease. Some wheels are listed at 110lbs........start galling the aluminum, especially on deep socketed aftermarket wheels and you are screwed.

Welcome to the world of 'Jeep'.........LOL

Bolts explained-

Trans looks like the NSG370 but IDK. Leave the 8.25 be, it's good.