Jeep Driver

http://charlottesville.craigslist.org/c ... 30897.html

http://charlottesville.craigslist.org/c ... 30897.html

89-90 XJ Wagoneers and Limited..............all have the 242. Also a source for non CAD axles. I don't want to speak out of line on spline count but I think that's what the other guy meant by 'older'. 89 to 90 seems to be a dime a dozen round here......just a matter of price.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=33023

Should be a 2-3 alpha code in the bottom left corner of tag. Take it by a auto paint store........they will show you.

No, I don't want anything that even resembles what is already there.

I may or may not jump on this. The factory hitch uses the factory bumper as an integral part of the hitch? Correct? I want to lose the factory POS bumper so this may not be my option. There was a guy who had a real nice bumper fabbed here about 2 months ago.....it rapped around to the flairs. I commented to him that I would not pull anything heavy with the receiver that was incorporated into the bumper. He had it built assbackwards in my opinion. You design the hitch first as the actual structure of the bumper and then wrap the hitch with facade of the bumper. That will be my approach. The only thing holding me back is I need a tank for my mig.........brand new Lincoln 180 and no tank........just haven't brought myself to drop the $300 buck yet.

Make sure all three prongs are in the socket. Mine did the same and one prong went to the outside of the socket when I plugged it in. Seems the H4 prongs on the autopals are a little off...........gotta kinda wiggle in on and adjust as you plug in. Was it supper supper dim?

Inspired by the European turn signal question- I've been looking around for an appropriate tail light replacement, one that would look right with the truck (stock) but updated. And one that could easily be replaced. Has anyone done a tail light conversion? Not some BS screw-on plate with LED's but an actual body repair/mod and conversion? Any pics? Thanks

There is a tag on the firewall near the windshield above the brake booster that has the paint code on it. Mine is GW.........that's it........thought there would be more to it but.....

I would leave the converter with the trany when installing. Then turn crank when bolting flex to converter. Edit. Now I understand why you ask........ I don't think it matter to the tranny which converter to which tranny, however I would make sure the converter is in the trans and aligned with the trans when mounting the trans to the engine to avoid any damage to the seal or other misalignment problems internally. At least that's how I've done it in the past.

http://unitedspeedworld.com/ Take a drive to Tampa. These guy DO know what they are doing.

There are more up your way than down south.......I found several but too far for me to make it worth while.

I'm assuming his MJ pump is not sufficient (pressure) or he'd use it.

To answer the OP's question- Yes I think the MJ pump is more than adequate to move fuel from the MJ tank to the XJ tank and easy to plumb. I assume your gauge works off the XJ tank? if so than as you are driving and you see that you are at 1/4 tank you simply flip the switch on the dash and turn on the MJ pump and in 7-8 minutes you will have refilled the XJ........all while driving. It's manual that way and you will have to be mindful. I get hung up in- if you are going to do it do it right or don't do it at all. I have no issue with 'manual' myself but if I were to undertake this project I would spend time looking into some type of sensor and auto valve to have it automatic and mindless. That said the proper way to do is to add the 2nd door and fuel neck.........if you don't' want to make it right...? then I would simply plumb the XJ tank as I said in the earlier post.

Why don't you just keep it simple? Remove the MJ tank and plumb the filler hose from the door to the XJ tank and be done with it.........cost ya what? $30 in hose and a couple of hangers?

http://macon.craigslist.org/cto/2811443955.html One of yall better grab this one.

http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/2811188688.html No rust, no damage. Owner has had it for 15 years. 2W 5sp

Not to burst your bubble there, but why would someone want to buy the problematic 0331 head? Rob Oh I have no bubble to burst. People buy problems all the time.

I am expressing a little frustration here too........OK.....maybe a lot of frustration. I'm getting tired of driving long distances to look at other folk's junk. Camera phone pics.......pics at night........no pics.......pics of not their car but one like it. People are idiots, lie.......man they lie through their teeth. They tell you on the phone "No no there's no rust", I know they think if I drive 350 miles I won't mind the hole in the floor and I'll buy it anyway. Liars! You ought to see the surprise on their face when I just walk away. Take good pics so the buyer can see what he's getting. If you don't have a camera, buy one. If you don't know how to use a camera, learn. Don't know how to run an image and use an image host, learn.

To be critical of this seller- Watch your background.......clutter does not sell........it distracts. AND WASH AND DETAIL your truck! Don't over show it either and crop properly. Space your images. And don't BS people with "rare" crap.......folks aren't stupid.

I run a better ad......however this guy does pretty well. Most folks, even the dealers, have no clue how to sell........none. But this guy actually got me to go back to his ad as second time. http://huntington.craigslist.org/cto/2811020107.html BTW........I think there are a total of three of us in the SE that know how to sell on CL.

There is another thread here where the poster was complaining of a loss of power after installing a replacement distributor.

Why would you swap in a CAD axle?

I'll give you $1K and be there in the morning.