Jeep Driver

I've had two that exploded and the 'bang' is loud.

You have an AX5 and you'll need another one.

What are you sweating over? Long-block thus far......? Head gasket and one at the oil pump should be the only ones they used and they are the same. Intake and exhaust either match up or they don't. Pan, VC, water pump, thermo housing, timing cover........all the same. The only thing I can think of is the oil filter may have changed from metric to SAE in those years......thus the change in O-ring.

Single wire is for gauge........not ECU.

2.5x7 will work and then trim after torque. Not to is just plain lazy-@$$. TSC has high prices and will likely not have deep nuts and and thick washers. Image Not Found

Remove brake caliper and rotor. Remove axle nut, 36mm socket. Loosen the three bolts behind the knuckle that secures the unit bearing, loosen about 2 turns. Tap the heads of the bolts until the unit bearing releases from the knuckle. Remove the three bolts. Remove unit bearing. Axle will now slide out. Replace U-joint.

Look for a trailer supply/manufacturer in your area......they will have every size you can imagine and will be cheaper than any parts stores.

You are holding them backwards, turn them around. And I assure you, no lift. They actually allow the spring to relax more and shift the eye back further when under load or on bumps to smooth out the ride.

When you sort it out- Copper lugs SOLDERED to NEW cables. Brass connectors and battery secured with hold-downs. Also note, gel battery on side, makes it impossible to short out on hood. Image Not Found

Walmart near by? If so, go buy a battery that will get you home. Or borrow a battery that will get you home. You probably fried your alt and fused links and maybe a couple of other things.

Study my pic and do exactly the same. Nothing really to compensate for. The 'metered' fitting is the one the vacuum hose is attached to, just make sure yours comes with it.

What is the fuzzy pile of $#!& behind the battery? You need to go through your cables and connections, replace as necessary.

Go aluminum and be done with it. Image Not Found

Yes this is true. Swapping injectors is for flow/spray pattern only. Injectors have what's called a "duty cycle" which is controlled by the ECU. Only way to get more flow from the injector is to tweak/program the ECU.So, based on your stated logic- An injector from 305 Chevy will deliver the exact amount of fuel as will the injector in my 2.5? The MPFI 2.5L yes, not the TBI 2.5L. Theyre both EV1 style 19lb hr injectors. The trick in switching injectors is to find one that mists the fuel instead of just spraying it. Think of it like the dual spray pattern on a bottle of Lysol, 409 or whatever kitchen cleaner you use. Now one setting is just a stream, the other is more of a conical spray. Now air and fuel need to mix evenly for a better, more efficient burn. So which pattern do you think would be best if you shot fuel outta that cleaner bottle? The conical pattern because the fuel is a finer mixture than if it just shot out like a stream.As for the duty cycle of an injector opposed to it's flow rating, take the 19lb number, this is how much fuel the injector will push if the needle is held constantly open. This is where duty cycle is used. Duty cycle is the amount/length of time the needle in the injector is held open by the ECU. The injector, much like the VE of a carb, never sees 100% of it's duty cycle so the 19lb unit operates more like a 15-16lb unit. By switching to lets say a Cobra 24lb injector, you may gain a little more pressure for that brief cycle but the ECU still operates at it's pre-programmed duty cycle. When you adjust things like MAP, O2, Temperature Sensors, etc, the ECU makes fine adjustments to it's duty cycle to adjust the A/F ratios. This is where the slightly larger flow rate helps out because the larger injector doesn't have to work as hard to flow more fuel. Sorry for the lengthy reply, I'm just trying to awnser/explain your question as simple as I can for you. I appreciate your response and I seemingly understand a little better. To be specific though- The 305 Chevy two barrel TBI uses the same style injector as does my 2.5.......that is what I was referring too. Ooops! Lol Met me ask you this way- Assume the two injectors are the same......a single generic injector..... Would they build or program the ECU around the injector?

Yes this is true. Swapping injectors is for flow/spray pattern only. Injectors have what's called a "duty cycle" which is controlled by the ECU. Only way to get more flow from the injector is to tweak/program the ECU.So, based on your stated logic- An injector from 305 Chevy will deliver the exact amount of fuel as will the injector in my 2.5? The MPFI 2.5L yes, not the TBI 2.5L. Theyre both EV1 style 19lb hr injectors. The trick in switching injectors is to find one that mists the fuel instead of just spraying it. Think of it like the dual spray pattern on a bottle of Lysol, 409 or whatever kitchen cleaner you use. Now one setting is just a stream, the other is more of a conical spray. Now air and fuel need to mix evenly for a better, more efficient burn. So which pattern do you think would be best if you shot fuel outta that cleaner bottle? The conical pattern because the fuel is a finer mixture than if it just shot out like a stream.As for the duty cycle of an injector opposed to it's flow rating, take the 19lb number, this is how much fuel the injector will push if the needle is held constantly open. This is where duty cycle is used. Duty cycle is the amount/length of time the needle in the injector is held open by the ECU. The injector, much like the VE of a carb, never sees 100% of it's duty cycle so the 19lb unit operates more like a 15-16lb unit. By switching to lets say a Cobra 24lb injector, you may gain a little more pressure for that brief cycle but the ECU still operates at it's pre-programmed duty cycle. When you adjust things like MAP, O2, Temperature Sensors, etc, the ECU makes fine adjustments to it's duty cycle to adjust the A/F ratios. This is where the slightly larger flow rate helps out because the larger injector doesn't have to work as hard to flow more fuel. Sorry for the lengthy reply, I'm just trying to awnser/explain your question as simple as I can for you. I appreciate your response and I seemingly understand a little better. To be specific though- The 305 Chevy two barrel TBI uses the same style injector as does my 2.5.......that is what I was referring too.

Yes this is true. Swapping injectors is for flow/spray pattern only. Injectors have what's called a "duty cycle" which is controlled by the ECU. Only way to get more flow from the injector is to tweak/program the ECU. So, based on your stated logic- An injector from 305 Chevy will deliver the exact amount of fuel as will the injector in my 2.5?

Yes, the size sounds correct. You know the calipers are only $17 at Advance......? And the bolts should only be about $2 each.

Above is an example of several possibilities or offerings. I'm considering a '97 2.5 complete non-running engine that is about 2 hours away for $180. If it's not sold by Fri I'll pick it up over the weekend. My theory is this- I want to rebuild a core that is complete as a factory engine, keeping the crank and rods and head together. Theory being that if a rotating assembly that has been mated for 10 years and 100K miles.....it is a proven assembly. VS. Acquiring an assortment of parts from assorted engines........ie......crank kit.....etc..... I'm also concerned about buying parts that have been machined by unknown machine shops. If it were you......? Thanks Whatever makes you feel happy. But consider what is actually "mated" in an internal combustion engine. The rods and pistons basically don't contact the block, the "mated" parts are the rod bearings and piston rings. The crank doesn't mate directly to the block, it only "matesd" to the crank bearings. If you're doing a rebuild, you'll be replacing the rod and main bearings and piston rings anayway, so any previous mating will be gone, and you start from ground zero. Hopefully the pistons never touch the head, and in a rebuild you check the head for flatness and have it trued if it's not flat, so mating the head to the block isn't a requirement. And the head and block don't actually "mate" anyway -- there's a gasket separating them. Yeah.......I guess........ When I posted this- I had just got off the phone with a guy who had a pan that I will need, he also stated that he has a 'new' head that I can pick up...make offer he says. The head he bought for a rebuild that never happened and he "just wants it out of the way". I figure I can pick up for $100. I spend $100 today to save $100 tomorrow that costs me $400 a month from now.......that is my concern. I can only spend my money once. I have only rebuilt two other engines, both were complete. When I dropped the pan on mine the rods were clearly marked by number and direction, the engine had been rebuilt and at least the builder had the sense to return the rods to their original location as I had done the same in the past. That was what was in the back of my mind when I asked about assemblies.

What pistons are you 4.0 guys using?

http://www.jegs.com/i/Mopar+Performance/312/P5249519/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710533392&CAGPSPN=pla&gclid=Cj0KEQjw6pGfBRD09M-TmYTBzqIBEiQAcRzH50RE83a3Ciw_FiC68iApOM0E9vNufgUUp3ELqkNRLc4aArcw8P8HAQ http://www.hesco.us/products/7724/new-products/167924/rvob4-25l-camshaft#.U-G9bP6lW78 http://www.quadratec.com/products/17601_502_07.htm

Double roller timing set and cam is on the order list. And I want to discuss with the machinist what head work is to be done.

Yes, it is going to the machine shop but I want to be the one that chooses the shop and decides what work is done to it.

Above is an example of several possibilities or offerings. I'm considering a '97 2.5 complete non-running engine that is about 2 hours away for $180. If it's not sold by Fri I'll pick it up over the weekend. My theory is this- I want to rebuild a core that is complete as a factory engine, keeping the crank and rods and head together. Theory being that if a rotating assembly that has been mated for 10 years and 100K miles.....it is a proven assembly. VS. Acquiring an assortment of parts from assorted engines........ie......crank kit.....etc..... I'm also concerned about buying parts that have been machined by unknown machine shops. If it were you......? Thanks

Check the CPS, it's likely unplugged. Did you remove the trans? If so, and the CPS is plugged in.....you could have damaged the CPS when reinstalling the trans.

Take your oil fill cap off while it is running and see if there is any air being forced out of the crankcase.