Jeep Driver

Up stream O2. I cannot believe what an effect a bad O2 will have. Seems back to normal now.

Re-enforcing plate that goes under spring plate, does not effect height.

What was the symptoms you were having that caused you to swap the regulator? I swapped the pump tonight and the same problem persists.

Three reasons for soft pedal- Leak at hard line connections......you may think not but wash distribution block...dry......check again. Air in line........I bled mine 3 times to get air out. Brake hose- soft line- is expanding and weak due to age. You are applying additional pressure now with new booster and that pressure has to go somewhere. I would look to something else as a shim.......brass flat stock....will not take as much thickness as you think.

Never had a problem with my truck staying put on hills......all we got are hills.

And BTW- Remove your rad and flush it out yourself and flush your block out too while the rad it out and the stat housing is off. Fill with distilled water only after you put it back together and run to temp........drain.......repeat.........Fill with antifreeze and top of with distilled.

TRASH the POS stant and get a Motorad stat. Do not get the stafety stat, they will stick open........just the simple standard stat, MotoRad under the Murray name at OReilly.

It's an 86, is it carbed or TBI?

I ordered the Bosch pump only. I drove it today and I can get about 2-3 miles before the pump heats up and begins to shut down. I pulled over and let it cool for about 5 minutes and can get a couple of more miles out of it. Rinse, repeat. So, I'm only going to replace the pump.......hope it's the right decision.

Adjust your shoes out before final adjustment on parking brake cables. You will break your front cable, I did. Replace it. Parking brakes should lock your rear wheels regardless on incline. Pedal should bottom out about 3/4 of the way to the floor.

My distributor has a wobble at the rotor. I know this to be a fact because I started the truck with the dist cap that is cut open for indexing just to watch it function. This engine is a '88 TBI Renix. The distributor I want to use in out of a '98 Wrangler 2.5 MPI, it has the cam sensor built in. I want to cut the wire to the sensor plug and ignore that's its there. I cannot see how or why it would be indexed any differently, and physically the two look alike. Do you see any reason I cannot use the '98 distributor with the Renix ignition? Thanks.

Fuel pump in the wife's 97XJ is fading fast and I need to replace it tomorrow. Dephi complete unit is $199 at Autozone or Bosch at Advance, pump only, $105 after discount. Neither is in stock and I'll have to see who can get me what. Also, OReillys has their brand as a complete unit for $199 in stock but I'd rather go OEM What has worked for you guys?

Yep, I know the sound. R&P I'm afraid. Pinion bearing will sing.......not a low level howl. BTW......my D35 did that for a year, so I don't know that it's an immediate curse......just something you'll eventually have to deal with.

Congratulations on the hitch!!!! I know how you feel, to search and search and wait and finally find what you are looking for. Good write up above on wiring. Do yourself a favor and go 7pin the first time around, I'm on my 4th and last flat plug. I also have a wench on my trailer that I will wire into the 7pin and I will also add brakes in the future.

Cost me about $60 in material and $60 in consumables. And my frame will shred before this bumper pulls apart. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

Your pics are worthless. Use the MJ distribution block. And trash your prop valve while you are at it, if you have not already. Image Not Found

That's the way it is here in TN. I was told at the DMV that if I'm caught using the truck for 'daily' activities it will be the officer's discretion to cite me. Also, if insured as antique and used for any other purpose, insurance will reject claim.

Another option you have is the Dakota 2.5 to AX15 bell housing and then an AX15 and TC out of a XJ or MJ. They are hard to come by......Check here.....I remember a member saying he had one he'd sell.

TH350 out a 4x4 Blazer and a Novak adapter to the TC. No computer and will bolt to your 2.8 Or look to the NV3350 You really got something against the AX5 don't you?

OK, now what do you do when installing a 97 head on an 87 block? LOL

Based on what I read here, sounds like your head is cracked or warped.

I'm estimating based on what the shop owner told me for a valve job. I think he quoted me $85 for the valve job but I will have him do what is necessary for the RV cam.

Core '97 2.5 complete $180 Head 250 Crank 85 Block 160 Mopar double roller timing set 140 Lifters 70 Hesco RV cam 280 Keith Black pistons 140 Total Seal rings 180 Bearing set 100 Gasket set 75 Banks header 400 Mopar wires 40 Distributor 100 Cam bearings 40 Head bolts 50 Oil pump 80 Oil pan 140 Misc. 80 Total $2,450 This is where I'm at so far. I picked up the core this weekend and have it tore down and ready for the machine shop. For those of you who have built your own, what was your total costs? If there is anything I'm missing......let me know. Thanks.

I would suggest you find a XJ with a 2.5 for the bell, trans, transfer case swap. Look for the 94+ years. You'll have to do your homework on the flywheel/clutch/pilot bushing/bearing.