DirtyComanche

There's a sensor under the coolant resivoir bottle, bolted to the fender, if memory serves. The dash light might be burned out. And yeah, they all got them, if it is 4wd, I think.

That looks sharpe! I was going to do that to my axle at least... then I said f' it.

Those are discontinued? That really is not convenient. Might try phoning advance adapters - I think they make the speedo gears?

Safety isn't an issue as I see it. I'm going to die young one way or another, so it might as well be in my jeep. Okay, so I should just get the flare wrenches out and have at it, I think. Although, I guess I should hit up napa again first for some more brake lines.

We've covered this before? Ohwell. I'm looking to remove it, as it never functioned for me anyways and all my brake lines back there are rather on the rusted through side. I'd also like to run my brake line from the center of the crossmember down to the pumpkin. So, it has a return line from it, which and it's seperate from the line that actually runs to my axle. From this I can assume that it allows pressure to bleed off the line and back to the MC. Am I right? Or do I have it all wrong? My light broke in my garage, so I was kinda guessing. Now, to remove it. All I have to do is remove the T that runs to it, pull it off, and plug the return line at the MC? (It's all an assumption that the return line goes to the MC, I couldn't see... stupid value village lightbulbs) Or am I off my rocker?

I've got to invest in some body armour myself. Luckily I'm not afraid to take 3 days with an angle grinder to make things fit. But first, make it driveable... or rollable.

Hmmm, TPS? Try cleaning it, if that helps, buy a new one.

Oh, wait, I "think" the rev limiter is 5200... I've hit 6grand because my trans has a few issues... I've never actually just left it in first and kept on it until it hit the limiter. So, I dunno. I'm not very helpful as far as that goes.

You said you pulled the belt? So you've narrowed it down to not being your fan or any accessories? How about if there was some crap in your bellhousing that rubs the flywheel or something?

Awesome, that's all I needed to know. I figured there shouldn't be any issues. I tried shifting it, and it shifts fine right now at about an inch higher than normal, so I should be good. Yeah, I had to re-drill the transmission mount holes on the crossmember too. Seems there's more differences than they knew of. However, it's all no big deal really.

Is it okay if my transmission winds up being 1/4" to 1/2" higher than stock? I've got to build a new mount, and I want to take the easy way out. I think my driveshaft angles shouldn't be an issue. To middle fingers to rusty's for never having installed their kit on a 'manche.

5200 for the renix, I think...

Trans would be easier than clock. At least for me. I can't deal with small things, my fingers are too big.

Transmission shop will rape you a lot... I'd just take a stab at rebuilding it, and if I screwed it and blew it up I'd probably just find another and try rebuilding that one too. I wouldn't try doing it in a weekend though. And big lock ring pliers will be your friend.

I should probably fix that? Redrill the mount 3/4" inward on each side? My leafs are all crooked.

The steering I was thinking of was this one: http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=1TNST&Category_Code=S6 I don't know much about it other than it apparently works. Comments?

Kinda makes me wish I had a stereo. Open header sounds pretty good to me though, at least for the first 10 minutes.

Get the service manuals from the dealership. Get the 89 version, it's better and the trucks are the same, or so I hear. Get the AX-15 supplement too, so if you swap you'll have it, and so you can identify for sure which one you have.

I'm tempted to buy some tire pliers so I can mount them myself... My current set I had a friend who works at a tire shop hook me up with the mounting @ $5 a tire. Other than I goofed and one of them leaks. I used BBs to balance mine. Did it work? I don't know, still haven't driven the damn thing.

I wouldn't buy a Rusty's LA kit again. They need to learn how to weld. Otherwise it probably works beautifully. (Yeah, I suck, still in my garage, on jackstands...)

Sounds correct enough, although it would be way easier to get a 1.5" spacer. that would probably do. I'm not 100% on that though, as my rig has gone from P225/75R15s no lift to 7" and 35X12.5R15s, so I'm not too sure about how things work between there.

Mmm, fair enough. Best we don't become like pirate, where if you search all that is yeilded is pages of people being told to search...

Wouldn't aluminum be a really bad choice of materials if it's supposed to give, then spring back? I'd never run that. Somebody makes a really cheap 1-ton steering conversion. Don't remember who. Apparently it works. Aren't I useful?

I think we should sticky up the most common questions... Although Pete seemingly has no issues with padding his post count. :D

Just get the good quality ones (look at the spidertrax ones). They need to bolt to the hub, then have seperate studs for the wheel to bolt to. Long as you don't wind up with a total BS of less than about 3.75" you'll probably not eat bearings too fast. I've got a set from a local machine shop on order right now. However, they are only for my rear. Oh yeah, and those wheels should fit fine anyways. My stockers were like 5.75" BS.