DirtyComanche

On the 'no welding' thing. I felt it really wasn't an issue to have my rear welded up professionaly, as I had jsut freshly pulled it from an explorer. If you're going SOA, unless you have a D44, you're probably going to need an axle swap anyways. It's no trouble to have a half competent machine shop weld perches for you, truck the axle back with your still running comanche, and then swap it in. The whole thing can be done quick and easy with a ford 8.8. But if you have a D44, go for it. I guess...

I just use my 231 when things get ugly. Which is about 6 months of the year. Otherwise I only need 2wd anyways... I guess it'd be nice, but I don't need things complicated.

Why bother with the 242? I guess if you see a lot of street.

Got mine off with a fine screw driver... Just pry gently working your way around... The clips will probably just come apart.

Typo or stroker. I'd think. And welcome!

I already complained about this in another thread, IIRC. Somebody here HAS this lift. I'd check to see who, but yeah, lazy.

Thoughts? No D30! GAH! What else? Get aquainted with the sawzall. You can make a hackjob look good. Really. I'd post a pic of my hackjob, but I don't have the flares on right now. Or tires.

The unibody rails can still rust from the inside out. If you live in a salty area it's not a bad idea to flush them out by putting a hose to the access holes (or whatever the heck those things are supposed to be). But, that's not something to be too worried about. I've only seen a couple cherokees that got scary because of that. Oh, and Welcome!

I think they'd be similar on road, the KOs are very well mannered. The ride on the KOs will be a little harsher, and a little louder probably (you won't notice) and they probably won't do quite as well in wet weather, or ice. But not much different. If you like the look, go for them.

Chrysler can't tell you what they've built worth anything. Look inside the driver's door for the real (origonal) build sheet.

No offroading? No plans to go offroading? Get the Long range T/As. Will they sell them to you in a 225/75R15? A 215 doesn't look too good if you ask me. But I'd be hard pressed to justify the extra cost for a 235 if you'll never leave pavement. Oh, and I've found 235s tend to rub the control arms just slightly at full steering lock. That's on the alloy 10 spoke (or whatever they are) 'turbine' rims.

I was told just to snag the rail off a HO and adapt it to the renix, as opposed to trying to adapt the renix rail to the newer style intake. Might want to pick up a fsm for a later model cherokee. It'd be a help. Edit: Which crank are you getting? If you care, I had this written down: Crankshaft - AMC 258 cranks Year.........Casting No......Description 1971.........3199738.........For Borg Warner automatic 1972-80...3214723.........12 counterweights, 66lb, 64mm nose - Heaviest, best for lugging. Balances easy. 1981-86...3235477.........4 counterweights, 46lb, 64mm nose 1987-90...3727...............4 counterweights, 46lb, 54mm nose - Has nose length correct, shaving is needed on other cranks. You need to cut an inch off the nose of most of them, but I assume you knew that.

I'd go to propane and go with about a 12:1 compression if I was to do it. I don't like paying for regular gas, much less mid or supreme. Yeah, I know, it'll add at most a buck a fill... But I really like propane. So damn cheap here! Oh yeah, port that HO head out yourself. It's easy, and worth a bunch more HP. And if you can't find one, port a renix one, it'll still work out okay. Decided on a cam yet? Going to deck the block to get a .040" squench? Are you planning on using the renix computer/fuel injection? Apparently it'll take a little work to adapt to the 99+ intake. And get your TB bored! It's going to be the big restrictive point otherwise. Damn Jeeps, it all jsut adds up.

Good luck! I might do that with mine when it kicks the bucket. Maybe. It might never die too.

Close enough. They're pretty much the same until you get back towards the seatbelt mounts, then things get a little funky I think. The floor also angles slightly different. It's just sheetmetal though. I have a little friend called a sledgehammer for problems involving that. That's based on how a fullsized center console out of an XJ fits in an MJ, and what I've heard.

I think you're probably going to have to remove all of it. Some will be the same, but not enough to patch anything together reliably. It would just wind up being easier gutting everything and pulling everything from the donor. Although the heater controls should be the same. The gauges won't, I'm pretty sure as IIRC the 91 won't be mechanical. At least the speedo that is. But that's my take on it. I personally hate HOs so I'm not very framiliar with them. That and there's very few of them in the junkyards around here for me to poke at.

Product mostly. They actually gave me pretty good customer service, although between having my Canadian accent and Rusty having that southern accent, there was a lot of "Pardon?" and "Sorry, say again?". They ship UPS, and if I do it over I'd find somebody who'd ship with another currior. But anyways, they can't weld. They also don't know how to operate a metal brake, as one of the brackets they gave me was bent past 90*. The LA kit has a lot of flaws, and few of them scare the crap out of me. Powdercoat sucks (if you care). A lot of their stuff isn't too well thought out (check out their bar pin eliminators). Oh, they didn't mention the LA kit had never been put on a comanche. Certain products have a really bad rep, such as their track bar. There's other things too. However, their springs are good - as they aren't made in house. And a lot of their other stuff is certainly acceptable. I'd just stay away from their critical suspension components.

http://rustysoffroad.com/Merchant2/merc ... sus_xj_par 4" lift springs. I don't advocate buying anything from them, but they might be a viable option for some people. (Yeah, you think that I'd not post their products if I hate them so much)

Tha shiz gangsta, yo. Looks good. :lol:

45Nm or 33ft-lbs. According to the 89 service manual.

Auto? AW4. It's strong, don't worry about it.

Depends on how cheap he can get an 8.8. The D44 isn't bad, weak tubes though. If he's only going to run 33s it should work out... If larger than 33s, you might as well look at all the other options, ie fullwidths.

It's all dandy, but it has to match your front gear ratio. And the spring perches will be slightly the wrong width, plus on the top of the tubes instead of the bottom.

I'm kinda wondering why I started talking about front driveshafts. You wanted rear. I think I just got excited thinking about square ones and forgot to think.

Tom Woods - http://www.4xshaft.com/ High Angle - http://www.highangledriveline.com/ Tom Woods is top notch. They had mine made and shipped in 2 days. They're expensive though. High Angle has a good reputation amongst the hardcores. I'd probably try them if I was to do it over. Oh yeah, it's not really a CV driveshaft. It's a double cardon. Yeah, I just have to be picky. CVs suck.