DirtyComanche

The old carbed AMC 258s... And the newer ones... Is the head the same pattern of intake/exhaust ports as the renix 4.0? I know the HO stuff is different. Oh, if you're wondering, I'm gonna buy an offenhauser intake ment for a 258 out of a IH scout. Which is the same as the AMC 258. That way I can just throw an impco 425 (cfm mixer) on it and make the f;ing thing run on propane. The hood is going to need a hole. A big hole.

There's actually a really mint 87 SWB with the 2.1 in it around here. Or maybe it was an 86 LWB? I don't remember. But it's all factory, sorta a burnt orange colour and no vynal stripes/decals. Not a spot of rust. Some old guy that is the orig. owner has it. Only drives it in the summer.

If they sell it as exactly equipped there, it would be very neat. Other than it'd be a ford. And they'll ghey-ify it, probably add IFS/IRS and turn the snorkel into a peice of plastic for looks, and use a gas engine.

It would survive in trail use only. He saved by narrowing only one side of the axle... Ditch that 'cage' though. And a front shaft could be run with a bunch of cutting.

They were only very early. Stopped in 86? Maybe 87. But yeah, underpowered, weird, hard to find parts, no aftermarket... I'd probably drive one.

That's waht I'm thinking.... And -44 and -44 are the same! The scales converge there.

It's been -40 here. That battery was fine through that. Besides, it worked in the afternoon, and it's no warmer now... I dunno, it was really weird.

So, went out to warm up the DD today... Yes, the 89~ XJ... It's maybe a couple (or 10) degrees below zero, nothing new or amazing... Put the key in, turn the ignition to run, electrical comes on... then goes off. Nothing, nadda. Turn to start, nothing, nadda... Turn the key back and forth, check some fuses, then go and get a ride into town (had to be at school). Get back home and figure I had better figure out what's up. Throw the key in and turn it to run, nothing. Turn it to start and realize that my gauges jump slightly, and the temperature gauge climbs like it would normally with the key in the start position. Wiggle the key a bit, try again, gauges jump the same way... Check the fuses, the battery, nothing is wrong? Go put the key back in and turn it to run, go to check the fuses again... And *whirr* the blower comes on, then the stereo beeps to life... Turn the key to start, it cranks and starts. So, long story short what the hell is wrong? I used to this thing being quirky, but it never did this before...

Try EVERYTHING! All of the heater/blower settings, the windows, locks, lights, etc. Electrical is a major PITA if there's anything wrong - especially if the PO did something to it. Otherwise if it's a 4.0/AW4 just check the fluids and make sure there's no majorly bad noises and don't worry too much.

Do it and you'll never look back. I know a lot of people out here with detached shops, and they all figure it was the best money they ever spent!

I hate it. I think it's all junk. They use good material (sorta) and have one hell of a fancy lazer cutter and brake - doesn't mean they have a clue what they're doing. They cheap out on things like joints, can't figure out how to prep metal for MIG welding, and tend to make massive engineering mistakes (or maybe not mistakes, I think they just don't care). However, there's lots of people running their stuff that will swear by it. I've actually had people tell me that I was flat out wrong about them/their parts and that I slam them because 'I've never actually run their stuff' - which I chuckle about. Spend a few more bucks, get somebody with a better rep.

Those TJ coils will give about 3" lift. Well, they should! I'd avoid rusty's fixed arm kit. Well, I'd avoid all of their stuff.

Mine is like Pete's (sorta, not at all actually, it has the muffler right after the crossmember), but goes up the back of the cab instead of dumping. I can't stand dumps on the trail. Image Not Found Glasspacks are great!

My cherokee is like that. One day the whole remote starter module fell out from under the dash and got caught under my brake pedal. I think some people were a little weirded out to see a cussing redneck throwing some sort of box with a bunch of wires hanging off of it into the ditch on the side of the road.

The TJ coils are about an inch shorter I think. Otherwise they should be the same.

The YJ rears won't be of any use. I dunno if all 4x4s had the decals. Mine doesn't! They're stuck to my toolbox.

Mmm... Check the plug and the output wire on the alt. The output clamp on the alternator likes to rattle loose and klabamo, you ain't got no power. If it's hooked up fine and not working, take 'er back. Rebuilds are horrid.

It's a J10 D44... Says on the first page. You can tell it is a D44 as it is less round than the D30; more like a retarded diamond shape.

Nice light bar... is it actually legal?

[quote name="ekulrenlig"] Can someone teach me how to quote people correctly?[/quote] You change the name in the "" part and the text goes between.

Nope, nope, and nope.

I'm with you on that. The 2.8 doesn't have much (if any) resale value, but has a nasty habit of exploding. Hence it'll save headaches to keep a spare one around.

3.55 was an avaliable ratio. 98% of time it's what you have if you have a 4.0/AW4.

If I bend that tie-rod, I'm making a new one. Unless I can just put this one back in the press again... That hot stamped crap that they claim is steel isn't exactly great. And the whole thing is ugly as hell. Same goes for the drag link. But I didn't feel like dumping the money on a bunch of 3/4" rod ends and tubing that I will have to special order if this works.

Yeah, I know the deal, I've done it before. And nothing else has ripped off yet :roll: Besides, I've got a lot more ribbing for that bracket. Overkill is better.