DirtyComanche

Mine is like Pete's (sorta, not at all actually, it has the muffler right after the crossmember), but goes up the back of the cab instead of dumping. I can't stand dumps on the trail. Image Not Found Glasspacks are great!

My cherokee is like that. One day the whole remote starter module fell out from under the dash and got caught under my brake pedal. I think some people were a little weirded out to see a cussing redneck throwing some sort of box with a bunch of wires hanging off of it into the ditch on the side of the road.

The TJ coils are about an inch shorter I think. Otherwise they should be the same.

The YJ rears won't be of any use. I dunno if all 4x4s had the decals. Mine doesn't! They're stuck to my toolbox.

Mmm... Check the plug and the output wire on the alt. The output clamp on the alternator likes to rattle loose and klabamo, you ain't got no power. If it's hooked up fine and not working, take 'er back. Rebuilds are horrid.

It's a J10 D44... Says on the first page. You can tell it is a D44 as it is less round than the D30; more like a retarded diamond shape.

Nice light bar... is it actually legal?

[quote name="ekulrenlig"] Can someone teach me how to quote people correctly?[/quote] You change the name in the "" part and the text goes between.

Nope, nope, and nope.

I'm with you on that. The 2.8 doesn't have much (if any) resale value, but has a nasty habit of exploding. Hence it'll save headaches to keep a spare one around.

3.55 was an avaliable ratio. 98% of time it's what you have if you have a 4.0/AW4.

If I bend that tie-rod, I'm making a new one. Unless I can just put this one back in the press again... That hot stamped crap that they claim is steel isn't exactly great. And the whole thing is ugly as hell. Same goes for the drag link. But I didn't feel like dumping the money on a bunch of 3/4" rod ends and tubing that I will have to special order if this works.

Yeah, I know the deal, I've done it before. And nothing else has ripped off yet :roll: Besides, I've got a lot more ribbing for that bracket. Overkill is better.

It won't hurt it. The only reason it moves is the cylanders are leaking down. I just about had mine roll into a lake once, parked it and left it in 1st facing uphill, didn't think it'd roll and got out and started walking away and heard the crunching of it running over twigs on its way towards the water...

Yeah, but it's no biggy if you do hydrolock. Pull the plugs and turn it over with the starter.

Don't exceed the duty cycle and you'll be alight.

Strength difference between a LP and HP axle in the front is over-rated BS. I explained why at some point. Besides, it's a D-turdy, it's gonna break eventually. But, a HP axle will give you a far better driveshaft angle. I'm thinking of looking for another HP44 housing to cut down. (I traded the other one in part for some tires and rims... it's a long story) My leaf springs can very near bind the u-joint at forced droop on the driver's side. And they flex like LEAF SPRINGS!

Actually, that funky bushing thing is on all of the FSJs. Unfortunatly, I could not get one and didn't feel like arguing about it in the parts store. The washers worked quite well for being something I have on hand. Other than one you pull the tie-rod off you have a handful of greasy washers to put somewhere.

I actually use the arc to cut things a lot of the time. It's like a plasma, but really messy. Just the sort of thing you'd use on a jeep.

Take some 13/16th machine washers and put them between the TRE and steering knuckle, below the dust boot. It'll stop the tie-rod from rolling and remove the vaugeness. And bumpsteer is really more where you hold the wheel straight and hit a bump, and even though the wheel is still straight the tires turn due to the suspension travel. Basically, if you hit a speedbump and your truck pulls a lane change - you've got bumpsteer.

Umm, rubber bushings don't last if you really flex them....

I know that some of the ZJ D30s are LP for sure. Some might not be though? It's one of those situations where I really don't care because D30s are weak and icky.

I doubt it'll fit where it was supposed to go origonally.

With more lift, your tires will still be rubbing while stuffing. I suggest, figure out where it's hitting, pull your carpet back, sawzall the sheetmetal that is in your way out of your way, and patch the hole with some new sheetmetal that's been contoured by a hammer. And of course, I'm here with a link of it done on a Yota: http://toyota.off-road.com/toyota/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=186287 That's PITA with a unibody. I moved the front axle foreward about 4-5"~ and cut the crap out of the inner fenders foreward from the seam by the coil tower. Then patched it. It is uglier than Lumby's (farm town) 'working girls' but it seems to work alright. Once I find a chevy 4.3 and associated parts I will cut most of the front off and re-do it.

Well, actually, regardless of what people tell you... It should be flat. And as long as possible. Hence I won't endorse any products out there. Maybe they actually fit - but I still think they suck.