DirtyComanche

Both the 4.0 and 2.5 don't really die. Well, eventually they will. But they'll smoke, leak, run weird, not have any compression, etc, but still be perfectly driveable and continue to even make alright power. It's when you start seeing metal in the oil that you know it's getting near the end. Anyways, I'd just build a 4.0 to match whatever was in it. If it had a renix, build a renix. If it had a HO - build that. If it had a 2.5 accept that you are eternally damned from making any power and either build a 4.0 (plus a drivetran) or build a 2.5.

I'd go 3/16. I think. 1/4 is absurd. As in, you'll destroy something FAR more critical before wrecking your rails.

Hit up a body shop and see if they have a listing in their catalouges. They often have shoddy quality stuff avaliable and, better yet, at an absurd price. Just get a quote on that (plus install) and take that in for the insurance.

If the truck isn't a DD I'd split the tcase and see what's going on before getting a new one. Umm, any chance something else is locked up? You said you pushed it back into your parking space while in neutral? If the case was locked and not in neutral it is unlikely that you could have done that.

I don't think the insurance company will be big on that... But, phone up a body shop and get a quote on the new bumper and just take the cash instead and then build your own. Or however it works with your insurance. Oh, I think detours makes a rear bumper? Dunno.

Okay, then they're the same width.

A slight curiosity... Is the ranger rear narrower than the exploder? Because if it is 1.5" too narrow(relative to the exploder), that would put it at about 58" wide. I ran 1.25" spacers on my exploder 8.8... It was the same width as the D30 that way (61"). If I didn't, I was going to be rubbing some serious frame.

Scott, did you just correct yourself? I'm confused. No, I re-assessed my opinon. But hell if I know. I can't think straight right now. Apparently getting hit in the head a bunch of times, then thrown a bunch of times, then choked a bunch of times does that. Silly Jeet Kun Do.

Nah, it'll flex too much doing that. Unless you bumpstop it pretty majorly. So, a 34 would be a better idea.

It's a fastback. I do believe. And uh, it ain't no rollbar. Unless you really like a squished cab.

If you want a 12.5" wide tire you should look at an 8" wide rim. Very few ford rims (probably no ranger or exploder) were this wide from the factory. So, if you find anything that fits the bill it'll probably be aftermarket. All the aftermarket 5x4.5 wheels (that I've ever seen) have a large enough hole in the centre that they'll fit a jeep axle no problem. Either way, look for something with a low BS. I ran 35x12.5s with 7"~ of lift and 15x8s with 4" BS and they rubbed all over the forking place. A 34x12.5 wouldn't be as bad - but it would still be bad. They make wheels with a lot lower (2") BS but they're rather hard to find. Street truck or wheeler? You can turn the steering stops out if nothing else. But that sucks if you wheel it... Oh, and if you don't wheel it you should be able to get a 35 under that lift without trimming or more than the occasional rubbing.

I'm going to give you the very technical answer of: Hell if I know.

It's 5x4.5 :nuts: Well, okay, you know what you're talking about. I can't think of any other applications that fit. I always just find a rim I think looks good (out of a set) and take it for a walk back to the jeep section and fit it up to make sure... Some newer fords work too (ranger, exploder) As far as backspacing goes, stock was 6.25~ or a 7" rim (I think, or was it 5.25~) but it varied according to rim style. I run a 15x7 with 3.5" BS on my cherokee and it works plenty well. But my fenders are hack. If you're stock height and stock fenders you'd need closer to the stock BS. If your fenders are hack you can go down to a 1.5" BS if you like - be aware the unitized hubs just might hate you.

Are you planning to use the 4.10 gears from the ranger in the exploder rear? That should work; but be aware that you'll have to make the new pattern match the old one on setup or they'll whine and possible explode. And yes, the V6/V8 8.8 is identical. IF you have to buy parts for it keep in mind they are AFIK all identical regardless of any options. So when the parts boy starts asking you for the interior colour and if it had cruise control give him a few choice words in response.

Hmm... For what you want I'd suggest the laptop I use... It's a hitachi, circa 1993-4~. We used it to test windows 95, then 98 (then 98+) on systems that had very little power to see how efficent the microsoft OSs were at resource management. The short answer is that they suck. Did I ever mention I hate microsoft? Anyways, it's only got a 166MHz proc, 128MB of RAM, a 1.1GB hard drive, a 12.5" display and those rockin' transistorized speakers. And it is PCMICA capable (and it actually works, along with the USB 1.1 ports). But, no problems after however many years of use it has on it now. Best of all you could get one for as little as well, free. And tech support is great! Only because there's nothing to go wrong with it... Unfortunatly, win98 no longer has security updates (that I know of) - but it doesn't seem to matter since it is no longer a mainstream product. And yeah, it is still used to surf the net/email/etc as that's all it is good for. It doesn't really like the highly complicated flash/java $#!&, but I don't like that either. But, that's how I look at computers after seeing the money that can easily be wasted on them. And wasting the money on them.

It happens. The driver sits on that side and the tank is there. Hence that spring tends to sag a bitsy more than the other. I'd not bother to deal with it...

I was laughing.

Oh... that's gold. I made this thread just to b*@$£. Still just bitching. And once you stop using IE you will NEVER go back. I switched to opera sometime back when they were down in the 3~ versions - that was a while ago!

Run a sold shaft through a CAD axle and you get a hella strong UCA mount. Buuuuuuuut... PITA to weld that hting up right.

Just truss it... The right way.

I have duals. They were in the front before. Lots of clearance problems.

http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... hlight=faq

Is that a new pump that hydro kit comes with? How long is that ram?

I think lots of people like them. They work just like their bigger versions. But smaller. And if that doesn't blow you out of the water, I don't know what will. Remember, anything from Interco won't be round. Even if it is smaller.

That's 'cause a reg cab f-150 only tracks about 65" in the front.