DirtyComanche

You can pop the springs without pulling CAs, but you normally need coil compressors or to undo a bunch of other stuff.

Yeah, I always smack it first. Tried a ball pein, nope. Small sledge, nope. Did a quick check with the pickle fork to see if it would work without messing up the grease boot. Didn't look like it. Figured I'd try a pulled for something completely different. Nope. Started wailing with the pickle fork. Got PO'd and went back inside. I'll get it off tomorrow.

No offense to the guys who actually do it right. But it seems a lot of them are lazy and figure it just zips back on with the gun, and you might as well rattle it for a minute so you know it won't come off. I f'd over my pulled and the TRE trying to get it out.

You want the brain power of www.ifsja.org They know these trucks.

Or don't worry about it. For the idle, clean your throttle body and the IAC. And perhaps the injectors. But normally it's just the IAC and TB are dirty.

Why must they insist on torquing a TRE by rattling it with the impact until it won't move anymore. If you actually torque it correctly it won't spin. HELLO. And the nut won't come off because it has a cotter pin in it. HELLO. And there might be a slight chance that the average guy with a puller and a pickle fork can actually get it off in his driveway. HELLO. And I will extend this to the troquing of SAE fittings. The correct torque is really low (maybe 15 ft-lbs AT MOST), but it seems they'd much rather get the biggest french (cresent) wrench they've got and yard on it with both hands. Accomplishing what? Crushing the flare so the fitting isn't re-usable. And maybe actually making it leak. :mad:

That's way over complicated. You'd need to run a drag link and a panhard bar for that to work. Unless you were using leaf springs. And you'd still need to run hydraulic hoses all the way to the second box. And a control setup for a motor. And a motor. The correct valve is a shuttle valve. 1 pressure in line, 1 return, 2 outputs for each side of the ram. Which I new before I asked. But totally had forgotten about. Been a long time since I took any hydraulic theory.

It says that one 30-40 trucks were made in 86 with the 2.5L... In which case, I ruined a rare truck. And it says the TF 904 was only used with the 2.8L. It came behind the 2.5L too. It was a POS in either case. The article could use some work.

That's how you build the axle, but no electric motor would give enough force to push the knuckles to steer. You need hydraulic force. A single ram on the tie-rod works. Wait, I see what you mean. Use the motor to turn the steering box. Would be interesting but highly complicated. I'd be better off buying an orbital valve than doing that.

I looked at a quadra-steer truck quickly a couple times. It looekd like a compromised setup to me, after all it was built for a street-driven truck. They used a double ended ram, IIRC. I don't have money like that. You'd think that hose explansion would be minimal. It is quite a distance. But, hydraulic hose is tough stuff. Especially if it's rated for 4000psi and my pump tops out at about 1400psi. One way or another I doubt it would be an issue as I do not forsee using it at any speed. The truck drives WEIRD enough as it is. Probably something to do with zero caster and leaf springs. A lock-out would be a novel concept. But I know I'd just leave it unlocked anyways. If I crab walk it at 100, I'll just have to put some faith in the exo cage.

AFAIK, the t-stat located temp sensor is for the gauge, same as the one in the head on a renix motor. There should be another sensor in the block for the EFI. But I don't know much about the HO motors.

Outta the blue on this one... But I was looking at a total pile of a suzuki that has rear steer. And I started to think. Which is bad. Normally I'd go read pirate until I get bored with the concept, but instead I posted here. So, can you get a simple hydraulic valve that would allow you to cycle an actuator in and out, yet offer some sort of automatic return to centre? Do you think P/S pump output would be able to drive a second ram? I don't see any reason why not, since I would only use rear steer when I'm moving slow, and fast steering isn't a huge deal. And it drives the ram I have without any hiccups what-so-ever. Comments? Maybe I should go read pirate until I realize this is immensly complicated and lose interest.

Hmm, I got quoted about $600 for one from the stealer. And I was pissed! Well, guess I have no right to be mad.

A big enough wrench, and the tranny in neutral, works.

Don't think I didn't try that. I've done gears before. Somebody left this third out in the rain and she just plain didn't want to do anything for me. I used an 8lb sledge and wound up mushrooming the old pinion so it was about 50% wider than it used to be. That was doing over-head blows.

Not as per the manual. However, it does say to do it that way for a YJ, IIRC. What the manual says is to throw the shifter into 4lo. Undo the linkage adjuster (there's a bolt on the linkage beside the tcase). Then shift the case into 4lo if it isn't - just yard on the linkage, you'll know when it's in. Maybe. Then you put a 1/8" or so spacer between the tcase shift handle and the bracket it is in, so that the handle is 1/8" from the rear stop when in the 4lo position. Then tighten up the adjuster nut. Then remove the spacer and verify it shifts right.

??. Did he mean "pull the axle" out as in prep to change the ring/pinion, or "pull the axle" as in swap the rear end? He said 'drop' which to me means taking the entire assembly off the truck. It gets vauge once I start using the same term for multiple things. Anyways, in summation, do gears with axle not in truck. Unless you hate yourself.

You don't need to pull the axle. But unless you have a lift, you're going to hate life for not doing it. Getting another axle to set-up is the best bet.

I don't think so... All evidence that I ever saw that was 'official' was that they changed at a very specific time. One day they were putting the BA10/5s in and the next AX-15s.

Regarding gear setups: I wouldn't call it horrible. I did a toyota one last weekend. Okay, it was a big PITA and consumed a lot of time. Had the diff been bare it would have been way easier since most of the time was wasted trying to get the old pinion out without a press... Anyways, the only trick to a gear setup is buying extra bearings or pulling off the old ones to make setup bearings. Then having the time to play with it. You can get a good guess for the first pinion depth, then quickly determine if it is right or wrong. You do need special tools though. A couple bearing pullers, a dial indicator for gear lash and a base for it, a couple brass drifts and bearing drivers, and a torque wrench or 2.

I have to agree. I never understood the 'I can't use 5th gear' guys. When I DD'd my MJ, I used it all the time. That's where the engine LIKES to run.

Yes, it refers to the peugeot BA10/5

Dana axles are easy. Normally there's a tag on the cover, it's say something random but have clearly a 3 55, 3 07, 4 10, or something on it. If the tag cover is missing, or you aren't sure, pull the cover off. On the ring gear there will be two numbers stamped 41:10 or 41 10, or something, dividing them will give the gear ratio (in that case, 4.10). And occasionally they will even say somehting like '3.55' on them.

Yeah, they plug in and work. They'll even flow more fuel. But, there won't be any 'real' gains. Apparently they have a slightly better spray pattern which might give you a tiny bit of power and milage increase. However, the stock injectors already flow enough fuel. This isn't a turbo-diesel where you get more power by just throwing more fuel at it. If you're to do a few other mods (TB, intake, exhaust, port head, etc) then the HO injectors would probably be a good idea. Or even some larger stang injectors.

I like that bed cover.