DirtyComanche

CW, do those 33s clear the LCAs with those rims?

Probably not in the US. The european weight includes a driver and half tank of fuel or something...

Does your's have the upscale sound deadening in the engine bay and everywhere else? Or a bunch of other options?

With my deck, which had to weigh as much as a stock box. It was 2x3x.188 HSS (and not a little of it) and 2x6 tounge and groove. Not exactly light. My truck is a SWB though.

That's scary, because my 4.0/5spd/4wd with a D44 and 'zu axle and 37s only weighed 4000 with a bit of crap in it...

After much searching, I found something, and it seems reasonable, but I'll ask if anybody else knows for sure. 92 LWB - 4.0L - 4WD - 3313lbs 90 LWB - 2.5L - 2WD - 2986lbs. Seems reasonable? I think so...

I'd do it for a j-truck. I helped a friend SAS a toyota truck last weekend. It was about as much work as doing a 2wd-4wd conversion IMHO, and I didn't get no freakin j-truck.

All batteries have some sort of pressure relief mechanism for the event of an internal failure. Well, almost, some don't (mercury batteries). So, yeah, I'd imagine it's having issues...

Even in 4wd it won't be too bad.... Torque steer affects ricers far more than a 4wd truck.

Cruise control junky. I've never had a vehicle that it worked on, so I haven't had a chance to get hooked.

And if you want those tires to work in the rear, you'll need like 2.5" BS on a 15x8. Normally people run spacers on an 8.8 so they can run 3.5" BS 15x8s (or something liek that).

THe ones that allow you to keep the 4x4.5 bolt pattern are garbage. And I don't feel overly high of the other kits either. But that's me. I had selectables on my D44 and got so annoyed with them that I put drive flanges back in.

Yes, build a large bracket on the axle, and not a drop mount on the frame. The problem is that you run into clearance issues. It's a bit of a balancing act.

I don't know how well it will work. The calculator removes the doubt on things like that. But, just looking at it, it should work fine. Or at least acceptable. The 3-link/panhard setup has a few problems in the rear, mostly to do with flex steer. With a panhard, you want it as high as possibly to make the roll axis high (more stability).

Looking back at this, I think the funniest part was what I wrote about front leafs. Ah well.

Ah. If the upper link is less than about 2/3 the length of the lowers, typically the AS will be whack. Along with the roll axis. Not to mention the pinion going all over the place (and hence your driveshaft). With a panhard, no triangulation is necessary. However, it is good if you can as it helps with the roll axis. Is this front or rear? I kinda skimmed through your thread, but didn't really read it (sorry, was getting to it).

It's microsoft product, so it's pretty much a wonder if it actually works at all.

What type of three link is it for? I've never used it because I lack excel, only the 4-link one (on-line). You'll need a panhard in there. (Maybe this is obvious, okay, it probably is, I've never used that oen so I don't know). Wait, the --- is the panhard, no... Sounds more like you have either transposed digits, or have a compatibility problem with excel.

Short answer is nope. Long answer... Maybe if I get back in the mood to do it. But for the most part I enjoy learning new things rather than attempting to compline my thoughts on things I already know (or think I know).

So... :nuts:

Somebody understands me!

Their deficency is like most CVs, they're weak. I don't know if they make parts for them anymore... I'd be tempted to try running them in an AWD street truck, but I doubt they'd work out so well.

You'll have clearance issues between the TR ad DL before you do with the oil pan. At least, that's how my memory works. I've got a waggy drop arm and I hammer the DL at the pitman arm into the TR. I'd probably suggest running the high-steer under the arms before trying to run low steering over the arms. That's how my waggy axle was stock, and it didn't work so hot. I don't think the extra stress on the ball-joints is going to be a huge issue, but that's up to you. But, I might have to look at that again to get you a clearer answer. I have to look at mine again because it's screwed up.

100%. 86s had it optionally. But no D44s then. They showed up in 87.

I don't think anything but that you should get some chevy knuckles and do real high-steer. Waggy pitman arm? The flat one? Hmm..