DirtyComanche

The falling down seatbelt thing annoyed me enough that I ditched the centre console. I'd like to see people look for better seats than the XJ ones... I've seen ZJ seats swapped in.

There's nothing wrong with the renix EFI as long as you're willing to listen to it... However, typically vehicles with it at this point in their life (they're all about 20 years old now) have fallen slightly into disrepair, so it might seem problematic until you change a few parts and clean some things up.

Wait, a rear D44, sorry, I was thinkin front. The 5x4.5 pattern will work easily with that. If you change the bolt pattern, the brake parts won't work. Sometimes it can be worked around (different rotors), but not always. However, an XJ/MJ rear D44 will have 5x4.5 bolt pattern and AFAIK the ZJ brakes can go on it.

Bolt pattern is the lug/stud pattern for the wheels. A D44 front won't reasonably work as a 5x4.5 pattern. 5x5.5 and 6x5.5 and 8x5.5 can be had easily wirth sock parts, and I think with a bit of machine work a guy can make 5x5 work on a D44. A unitized hub D44 can be made to work as 5x4.5, and in fact there's a factory one that is thaty way - but they aren't srong.

I think there's too much crap in the engine bay to pull it off. (at least for a 4.0) Mine only has about 5 visible wires, and the plug wires... But I cheat.

Did you stop drill that crack before welding? Then put a doubler on it or something? Curious.

Yup. Good for that, if that's what you need. Doesn't help the hubs to live long and prosper, though. No, not exactly. But they'd survive street use and mild wheeling for a long time. Anything else and a guy should consider something different anyways. D30 wheel bearings aren't exactly awesome. They're a cheap option for the junkyard lover.

I don't think the 19-spline shafts are very big... Also, the 30 spline ones are only D44 sized. Whoopy. An axle that weighs twice what a D44 does and is only as strong. Sure, you can fix that... Most of the full-float ones are reasonably easily upgraded by use of D70 shafts and boring out the spindles. Which is actually quite the PITA unless you're willing to pay a machine shop to chuck the housing on a lathe. There's semi-float ones with 35 splines from the factory I think, out of chevy vans. Lots of guys run them as they're a lighter and less complicated than a full floater, and avaliable. Narrowing a rear housing is a little more complicated, but as long as you have an alignment bar you can do a full-floater easily enough.

No first-hand knowledge. Verify backspacing, it's probably wrong. I had van rims on my old XJ. They were 15x7 with 3.5" BS. So yes, wrong, but they worked good for kicking the tires out of the LCAs.

Crown victorias... And a lot of other stuff. Cary tape measure.

We had to try 4 computers before it worked. And wow, it livened up the already lively dorm life. So much that I had to go mix myself a couple double long islands. Now to only see that in person.

I have nothing against the eaton 20. The ones offered in jeeps typically had weak tubes and crappy carriers. All are fixable. But they aren't 1-ton. Eaton made real 1-ton diffs for chevy back in the 60's... Personally I think the H1 is a pile. It RTIs about 300. Awesome.

The lengths between them is within .5" IIRC. The NV242AMG (hummer H1) case is a heavy duty version, but it offers no 2wd provisions. How heavy duty it is, I don't know. It lives behind a 6.5 turbo diesel, and those things are damn slow. Not to mention that we're talking 'heavy duty'as in a truck that uses AMC 20s for diffs. Not that there's anything wrong with the eaton 20, but it's not exacty 1-ton strength. The chevy NV242HD I do not know anything about.

I've seen 231 parts scattered before... The problem with the 242 is that you can't upgrade the rear output. Which is actually a pretty easy thing to break on a stock 231, and the stock 242 one is the same size.

The difference between the cases is the 242 offers an "AWD" mode (Full time) and has a central differential. It has limitatons.

I think some of the FSJ stuff was 5-lug, but maybe not. I don't think there's anything really close. There's some stuff that's 62 or 64" wide. And the car stuff (mopar) which is hard to find and maybe good, maybe bad... Dunno.

Are those seats comfortable?

I guess a base vehicle would have the 2.5L? A 4.0 weighs about 525 turnkey, but I don't know what a 2.5L weighs?

For headers, I think you'd be far ahead if you build your own. I was watching musclecar (or something) and they did it by buying the flanges and a box full o tubing that was bnt 180*. They just cut it, tacked it, and once it all fit right took it out and welded it. Easy? No, not really. But then you could make them to build power how you want.

According to his build thread, they clear.

CW, do those 33s clear the LCAs with those rims?

Probably not in the US. The european weight includes a driver and half tank of fuel or something...

Does your's have the upscale sound deadening in the engine bay and everywhere else? Or a bunch of other options?

With my deck, which had to weigh as much as a stock box. It was 2x3x.188 HSS (and not a little of it) and 2x6 tounge and groove. Not exactly light. My truck is a SWB though.

That's scary, because my 4.0/5spd/4wd with a D44 and 'zu axle and 37s only weighed 4000 with a bit of crap in it...