DirtyComanche

How many gauges do you need? I figure a tachometer, speedo, voltage, temp, oil pressure and fuel quantity is all that's needed? Which is all the factory stuff. I guess if you have an auto, you might want tranny temp. But what else could a guy need? Air pressure if you had OBA I guess, seems kinda unneeded though.

I like my autometers in the MJ. They ain't exactly cheap though. And to fit them to a somewhat factory appearance would take some work. I seem to recall at some point seeing a thread where a guy had made a new instrument panel to mimic the stock one (probably not on this board). Was a lot of work as the stock peice has a printed circuit board on it that also has the turn signal indicators and a bunch of other jazz, including the warning lights and such to the left.

F-bomb metric. I'll order some 1/4" quick pins. Thanks for measuring, deziped...

Take out a loan or whatever is needed. If you don't fix it, it'll get worse, and besides the risk of death (which is at least a minor inconvenience) the surgery price will go up the worse it gets.

Most guys eff it up. They look at the gauge and assume A)It's actually accurate B)That's the temperature of the entire head C)It's a problem that it's warmer than the typical 1970s carburated chevy runs. Time and time again I see people swap in 160* (or pull) tstats to fix their 'running hot' problem, only to find that the engine runs like a pile of $#!& and fuel economy goes to half. If you screw it up bad enough, the computer will never come out of closed loop (warm up mode), and it'll run pig rich 100% of the time. Or, if you screw it up a little it'll take longer to come out of closed loop, and settle at a temperature that is not optimal for combustion. The ECM and fuel injection was designed and programmed with the intention of it running fairly warm. The OEMs figured it out long ago that they could eek more power and milage that way.

230 is a little hot. But you should run a 198* stat and you should see about 210-215* at the head... The factory gauge is not accurate typically, so you may not actually have any issues. Swapping in a lower stat is not right. The EFI is supposed to run warm/hot or it will have more issues.

Chesseburger in a can. Yes. You heard right. Chesseburger in a can. Where you get 'em: http://www.trekking-mahlzeiten.de/trekk ... _4641.html Review: http://gizmodo.com/351304/cheeseburger- ... n-reviewed

That last pic is pretty ugly, that'll need a bunch or surgery. For the lean, drive/wheel it a bunch and see what happens. Might all work out...

That's awesome! But so horrible at the same time!

He'd had it for a couple months and was waiting for surgery. But it 'ruptured' on him 3 nights ago. Hopefully the wonder of our universal healthcare can get it fixed for him within a month. If he's lucky :roll:

So, one of my co-workers got a hernia. We were all sitting around drinking and BSing tonight, and I decided I wanted to see what it looked like. Ugh, ugh, ugh. I'm not lifting heavy objects ever again. That is all.

the alternator should boil the water out from the heat its absorbing from the motor. but it sounds good in theory. Water isn't the issue. Dirt/sand/crap is. It takes very little to score up the brushes and the surface they ride on, which will cause your field voltage to drop to almost nothing and the alternator won't make no juice. The idea is that if it can drain out it will prevent damage...

I want to put the 12V cummins out of my dodge into a J10 or J20 at some point. Unfortunatly, there's a lot of 'if's for that project. Basically I need a reliable daily for the mean time, a good j-truck donor, and something bad to happen to my dodge. Yeah. My plate is already too full.

Cool. I should do that to the engines at work.

You can buy the tent canvas, it's better than a tarp... This guy made a killer roof tent http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/s ... php?t=4802

I have to admit I'd never even thought about using that flexible exhaust tubing to make a header.

If I remember tomorrow I'll copy the pages out of the FSM for you.

Wow, that'd have pissed me off.

The first time I took the passenger side one off, I dropped it and bent the seam on the bottom, I had to fix it with pliers so I could close the door when I put it back on. They're pigs. Try doing the install and alignment by yourself.

I'm thinking it's like 3/16? But some type of metric (oh, that'd be an 4.6mm)? Anyways, these guys sell 1/4" quick release pins. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/524,4_1 ... -Pins.html I think they might make it easier to remove the doors. I have cut hinges, but it's a pig to put a 2dr XJ door back on as the alignment is kinda finickery and they're heavy. I'd leave the roll pin in the top hinge like it is, and one of these (but in a more suitable diameter if I could find it) in the bottom. Then I can just align the top roll pin and support the door with it easily enough, then mess around with the alignment for the bottom one. Thoughts? Off-base? Might work? Never pulled a 2dr XJ door so you have no idea what I mean by 'heavy'?

Lock-right, lock-wrong... So, have you rolled it yet? That cage came out cool. Kinda makes me want to cage my cherry. Maybe I should...

Do it. Cherries are fun.

I've never seen it in a 12 here. Just 4 bottles in a little carboard thing. Maybe if a guy knew a wholesaler they could get it by the case. And it's definatly got vodka in it. It says 'An excellent source of vodka' right on the label... I used to drink it, but haven't bothered in a long time. It's regarded as a cooler here - IE b*@$£ beer. So, no macho guy can drink it. And Ontario has different liqour laws than the other provinces (they're provincal laws... yeah...), so I can buy it at any government liquor store or independant cold beer/wine store (which is a liquor store, but it's cold, yeah...) I honestly can't even think of what it'd taste like if it's not vodka based.

They sell plastic radiator repair kits... Kinda hard to find, but if you look at plastic gas tank repair kits they often say they'll work on plastic radiators. Anyways, all they are is a peice of a plastic like reinforcement with a epoxy like substance on them. It's not epoxy though. It's something that dissolves the plastic for a short period of time, which seals up the problem, then the reinforcement gets bonded on at the same time. I think. They work better than JB.

Aren't JK axles 63" wide?