BrettM

there is a Toyota that was 3 linked (rear) by a reputable builder that used a big ol' TRE for the point of the wishbone. he wheels it plenty hard, and sounds like it's still working well. Still, I wouldn't do it. You just don't know what that joint can take, and it would really, really suck to have one break. I generally don't like being the guinea pig for new ideas when the result could be really bad. i found a picture, click for larger:

Eagle, I respect your Jeep knowledge very much, but I'm going to have to call BS on this one. The transmission has no electrical input to determine how much the torque convertor slips, and therefore changing the electronics in the TCM combined with the power/comfort switch can not do this directly. Indirectly, the convertor does slip more because in comfort mode all the shift points occur before the stall speed of the torque convertor. Heat does not damage the convertor unless it is excessive heat. We know it's bad to run the 4.0 at 250 degrees, but you could use that same argument to say we should all install huge radiators and 160* thermostats to try and make the 4.0 run at 160*, which would not be beneficial. With reasonable driving, or with agressive driving and a good tranny cooler, the comfort switch will not indirectly create enough heat to damage the transmission or torque convertor. It has been my experience as well that I get a few more city MPG when using the comfort mode.

i did some crude chops a while back of a bobbed bed on mine (and paint change)

the short one is a guy that goes by MJDan, he's not online much, but occasionally pops in over on NAXJA. He bobbed the front of the bed and used and XJ gas tank behind the rear axle. It's a 99" wheelbase.

The twist machine unit looks to be the best solution, and I have it linked off my site for that reason. It uses an RF transmitter to avoid any spinning wires. You'll still need my controller to interface it with the transmission computer though. The Sparco or Momo wheels with buttons would be great also. There are a handful of JeepSpeed guys using my controller and I think they are all using the arcade style joystick. It's very durable and easy to shift when you're bouncing through the desert.

Do you have a D35? If so, this is the perfect opportunity to swap a D44! The pinion is about 1 inch longer and will make the driveshaft fit perfectly. Spend $200 on a better axle, save $200 on a driveshafe, perfect!

that rearward red triangle thing is pointless. If you want to run doors still, make a B-pillar hoop just behind the cab with an X in it, then make an additional downbar on each side that is simply verticle and as close to the door as yo ucan while still allowing it to open.

so much mud in these videos.... blech on rocks:

I would (and have) put used gears in the front, but I wouldn't in the rear. What about just swapping the whole axle? or are you taking gears from a different vehicle?

take a welding class at your local community college. then figure out what you want and fits your budget.

I always try vice-grips first, if the bolt's too stiff I weld a nut on.

I tried an XJ soundbar in my MJ. I'm 5'11" and the speakers were about 1 inch from my head. It was kinda annoying and I soon ditched it.

reverse portal style beam axle? what motor?

I've said it many times before; leafs on a D30 is a waste of time. Main reasons being it's not any easier than radius arms, and there aren't good steering options. With a (not F150 or Bronco) 44 it's easier to do leafs than it is to do radius arms.

the RE drop bracket kit is really good, and WAY better than rough country crap however I strongly disagree with the RE longarm recommendation, it's a terrible design. if you want long-arms, get TnT, Full Traction or maybe Rock Krawler.

Have you ever used OME shocks? any comparison to the SensaTracs? anyone else tried both?

shocks will influence the street "feel" way more than springs, and if the leafs articulate well they are probably plenty soft. get some good shocks on it and go from there.

how much is "affordable"? To do a decent job would cost around $500, a good job would be about $1500. That's just for steel, joints, springs, and shocks.

no offense, but this is one of those "if you have to ask, it's way over your head" kind of issues. once you move the gas tank, 4-linking an MJ is the same as any other vehicle, except the mounts may need a little more reinforcement because of the thinner uni-body/frame.

read up a few posts

3/4-16, not 3/4-18

depends on the MIG. any of the big 3 companies welders in the 175/180amp size will burn 1/4" plate in a single pass. but yes, arc welding (and O/A!) will teach you to weld much better

how do they attach? how many bolts?

at some point I'm going to swap an 8.8 in (still SUA), I know I'll need larger u-bolts, but does anyone know if the stock u-bolt plate has enough room in the slots for the larger diameter u-bolts?

Go AW4 or nv3550, depending whether you want auto or stick.