acfortier

How rusty is the whole linkage assembly? If it's bad, you can always go with an aftermarket solution (although a little pricey) from http://www.novak-adapt.com/

Where in MA are you located?

That seems a lot easier than fiddling around with it... If I had found that thread before I would have done it that way... :doh:

I'm confused... Did you eliminate the rear height-sensing valve above the rear axle? The front port (the port closest to the front of the truck) should be plugged on the XJ valve, leaving you with one port going to the rear of the truck. http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... prop+valve Follow one of the pictures on that thread. Those are the three ways you can do it.

I thought about that myself, but figured it'd be too risky. But essentially, if you get the angle and everything correctly, it should work. Or just take it to a place where they can switch the whole rods out for a minimal fee. As for picture, there really isn't much to see - nor do I want to undo what I have set up. Basically, on the original brake light switch, there are two outer plastic washer clips, the metal bushing and the plastic bushing that acts as a washer between the open slotted side of the brake light switch. Instead of drilling the hole larger than 9/16", I found another plastic washer comparable to those on the outside, drilled it to 9/16" and used that instead of the plastic bushing. At first, I thought I had it installed correctly, but I found out later that the make-shift plastic washer was not in the right spot and did cause some problem, so make sure everything is in the right spot. As for little shims, I used aluminum foil from the kitchen, cut little rectangle that fit nicely in the switch where the flat part of the push rod should push the brake light switch mechanism, and just tinkered with it until I found the most responsive one.

I think they use bubble flares? And the valve should require some adapters, I know I bought some when I did my '96 swap. Quoting this guide (http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/xj-brake-upgrade-3352/) the sizes that he used are... a 3/16" female to 1/4" male adapter a 3/16" female to 5/16" male adapter a 3/16" female to M12 x 1.0 male bubble end adapter a 3/16" famale to M10 x 1.0 male bubble end adapter

Yeah, 10 - 12 definitely does not sound right for these engines. I get around 19 - 20 from mostly highway driving too. :dunno: Everything is pretty much bone stock...

Took some tinkering on my end, as I did this swap yesterday (took 15 hours to redo all brake lines and get everything properly installed... YIKES). Basically, after shaving off the rod (and figuring out it was too much) I welded little spots back on and just began to test fit it. Got to the point where I used a tin foil wedge in between the flat part of the pedal and the light switch. Works fine now, no problems. Just make sure you have the washers and bushings that hold the brake light switch in the CORRECT spots... Actually, come to think of it, I had to drill out another washer to match the ends as the stock one wouldn't fit through a 9/16" hole. Just put it in the same spot and it works good. It will definitely take some time and tinkering, there is also a certain spot where the nut had to be on the bolt for it to work well. Good luck!

How much of an increase did you see?

+1 to that. Going to get around it tomorrow. On another note, after bleeding my system TWICE the correct way, my brakes are still way weaker than any other car/truck I've driven. Makes me wonder if I bled them correctly...

I don't think its rare, I have that same package as you.

Question/Clarification: Where is the XJ "proportioning valve" located? is it connected to the XJ Booster/Master Cylinder ? Or? A friend has a 96 XJ he's parting out and I'd like to get all the necessary parts/items from him to do this upgrade and also eliminate my rear MJ Proportioning valve as it no longer appears to work. Yes, the proportioning valve for a XJ is connected the to master cylinder/ booster. You can keep the MJ valve in the front and just plug the extra line that goes back to the height-sensoring valve , but you are more prone to locking up the wheels.

It'd be easier for me to eliminate the rear load-sensing valve anyways. Instead of two lines, only have to run one to the back. As per this thread, I planned on eliminating the rear and just using the XJ. But I wasn't sure about the different thread sizes (if the even did differ) or what actual sizes the XJ proportioning valve uses.

After reading over some guides and threads about the '95/'96 brake booster upgrade, decided to go ahead and do it for myself as I plan on re-doing all of my brake lines. Went to the junk yard, picked up the booster, master cylinder and combo valve for $50 from a '96. Referring to the MADXJ guide, it says I will need conversion brake fittings, but if I want to use the 96' valve, does this still hold true? Unluckily, one line going from the M/C to the valve was disconnected, but one is still there. Basically, will I need to still grab those Edelmann fittings as per the guide or will I be able to get away with something else?

Looking for the older style instrument panel with all gauges and tach... Let me know what you have to 01468!

:thumbsup: Now just for lengths and fittings.

Alright. Gonna order a new EGR and see what happens. Thanks!

Yep, got the rear valve under control. Following this thread and the appropriate diagram. Do they make special plugs or do I just get a generic bleeder screw from the parts store?

Want to replace all my brake lines over the next week, couple of ?s. I was thinking about deleting the rear proportioning valve completely, as I'm not sure if it was quite working (my brakes seem waaaay too soft even after I bleed them the RIGHT way...) I bookmarked the other thread that has each of the diagrams, so I was thinking about just plugging the hole in the front valve and deleting that extra line. What do you guys recommend? Also, how much brake line should I get? Is it worth it for me to splurge and buy stainless steel? What do you use to plug the valve up front?

Ah, I assumed that the yellow must have be connected... Perhaps it is bad? If it was bad, would that cause my sputtering/loss of power problems?

Well, after doing my front shocks, I noticed on the drivers side that a vacuum line was unplugged from my EGR valve. Plugged it back in, woke up the next morning and go to drive it, go about 4 miles or so down the road before I start to lose power if my foot is off the gas. I let it sit, opened the hood and there was some smoke (not much, perhaps it was something burning off than actual on-fire?) coming from where the EGR valve connect bolts to the intake manifold. Started up fine, but did the same thing further on down the road. Unplugged the vacuum line again (the one circled in yellow) and haven't had the problem since. My question is, what is the big thing circled in red (connects to the EGR valve circled in green that is right below it)? Most diagrams show just a straight line going to the EGR valve, but even then which place does it plug into, the one circled in green or yellow?

Hell, you could really run 4x4 on pavement if you wanted to, but don't plan on taking sharp turns...

Most cars do it. I had a 2000 Saturn SL2 that did it, same with the 2008 KK we have and the 2005 Dodge Ram. All autos. Nothing out of the ordinary here.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29031 :thumbsup:

I've wondering this myself, I've got a 2-pane slider and it doesn't seem like it is a replacement. I do need a piece of glass for it too, but not sure how to go about it.