JeffN

There is nothing to adjust on the rear of an MJ, but, they still have to put all 4 sensors on regardless if it is a 2 or 4 wheel alignment. Almost every shop now quotes every alignment as a 4 wheel just because the majority of cars now have rear caster/camber/toe settings.

Check for moisture inside the distributor cap and also look for arc lines in there, they aren't expensive to replace

http://columbus.craigslist.org/pts/2213146140.html

Love it, you can go many different directions, just look at the Samuel Adams brew, he started out with a homemade beer kit and now it is a huge company. Just because you can go the quick route and go to the store to buy doesn't mean you should, great satisfaction can be had by doing it yourself.

I once bought a toyota celica supra off a guy and didn't get the title right away, fixed the engine and he called the police afterwards and managed to get the vehicle back. If you want to keep it as a driver make sure you get a clean title in hand first.

Thank you very much :banana:

Is the MJ wheel bolt pattern the same for 2 and 4WD applications?

well we talk about thermostat housing not waterpump? I don't understand what you are saying, this thread was about changing a water pump and getting the thermostat to open properly after. The reason you should fill the metal pipe coming from the water pump is that the water pump will just be sitting there in a pocket of air unable to move fluids needed to cool the engine. If you get a small funnel and pour antifreeze into the tube coming from the water pump until it flows out, you get rid of that pocket of air that the water pump impeller is sitting in.

the engine should be cold, also pour antifreeze down the steel pipe from the water pump, i just did one yesterday on my brother's MJ and it worked perfectly

sounds like you may have a cluster ground problem

generally when a tilt wheel wobbles, it is just the knuckle that has come loose, go to harbor freight and get a steering wheel pulling set and some inverted torx bits in 1/4" drive with an extension, it really is a pretty simple fix

if the cat was plugged it would probably be glowing red. check vacuum lines to your map sensor and well, change the fuel filter anyways it is always a good idea to change that.

The 5.0 injectors give a much better spray pattern that can help with some extra power and better fuel economy. some people report up to 5mpg gained

my 2wd required me to trop the downpipe and the starter, that was it, you could possibly do it without dropping the downpipe though

my trick to that is to take the hose off the metal pipe coming out of the water pump and fill it until antifreeze starts coming out, it will get rid of most of the air pockets and the t-stat should open at the proper time.

These are napa brand new ones

Lol, i'm ready to put a zipper on the trans to make it easier to change

Ok, i am on my 4th "new" internal slave cylinder in 4 months. Does anyone know anyone that makes a metal unit? These plastic ones have taxed my patience as far as I can go.

the threads are shot, luckily i have an extra exhaust manifold to put on that is perfect. helicoil kit is expensive and i would have to remove the manifold anyways for room to drill and tap it for a helicoil repair

So, i bring my 90 Eliminator into the shop to find out why it was all the sudden so floaty on turns. Find the front sway bar links had broken, no problem............................ While i had the truck on the rack i decided to go ahead and change out the O2 sensor as it was original and has 114k miles on it and I have been experiencing some throttle related issues................................................... Noticed the water pump had started seeping.................................................. Sway bar links were easy enough to change out once I got the torches out and freed up the rusted sleeves, now the real fun begins: On to the O2 sensor, put a wrench on it, won't budge. Get the heat on it to loosen the rust, get it to turn, and turn and turn, stripped O2 sensor :fs2: Took the downpipe loose so I could get a hammer handle on the inside of the O2 sensor to give pressure to work it out of the downpipe, sensor is finally ready to come out of the header so I take the hammer handle out of the header and at that instance the 02 sensor decides to fall out of the header and straight into the downpipe :fs2: Water pump, OK it's an easy enough repair............ So far 3 broken bolts in the engine block, at this point I am going to walk away from it for a day before i take a hammer to my precious truck.

On my 87 4.0 I just put a mechanical gauge in it, i put the gauge on the right side of the instrument cluster below where the factory clock goes. $20 and a holesaw was all i needed to get an accurate measure of the oil pressure.

The head would have to be magnafluxed to check for cracks, it would show a crack that you would not be able to see with the human eye

If the fuel pressure regulator is bad my fuel pressure would not be spot on.

no, it just unscrews and a new one screws in

Truck takes +/- 8 seconds of cranking to start. (I believe an injector is bleeding off pressure) It pulses on acceleration and really feels sluggish, this is a 90 Eliminator automatic 2WD my 87 4.0 5 speed has neither problem. The 87 holds pressure, the 90 loses pressure (fuel) It has a new fuel filter and pressure is perfect. Feedback on the issue would be gladly accepted.