Boots

So I'm thinking about doing the 99-04 WJ booster and master cylinder upgrade. I understand how the brake light switch and the spacer need to go and all that. But should I do anything to the proportioning valve or the rear height sensing thing? Last time I bled my brakes I tried to use the special technique to bleed the by pass line or what ever it's called. I opened one of the bleeder screws on one of the front calipers and tried to bleed the rear brakes, the front one shot fluid every were. From what I understand, the proportioning valve was supposed to cut off supply to the fronts so it wouldn't spray fluid every were. Does this mean there is something wrong with my proportioning valve? Should I get rid of the rear height sensing thing? I like the idea of it adjusting the brakes but it's also one more thing that could go wrong... If it's even working right now. If I get a JY booster/master cylinder is there a way to test it before I put it in?

nice camper shell :rotf:

The only non caustic hand cleaner I've had good luck with is GOOP Hand Cleaner. It can also be used as a spot cleaner on fabric. If all else fails, use gasoline or paint thinner or something like that. Will most likely dry out your hands tho.

:agree: clean the hole it goes in really good, they like to stick.

I think he just wants a temporary fix for winter to keep stuff from going inside the cab.

So I can hear a hissing noise when ever it's running, and for a couple seconds after I turn it off. I disconnected the vacuum hose from the booster and capped it off, no more hissing noise. So i'm pretty sure it's in the booster... Now that I kinda understand how it works, thanks to Jeepcoma, I see no reason to get rid of the booster. I'm all for upgrading things to make them better if I'm already replacing them, that's why I have a dana44 and an nv3550. But I'm still not sure about the bigger booster uprgade, gonna do some more research on that. Thanks :wrench: Chad

Thanks for the info. I'm thinking I'm probably just going to replace with a factory booster, but I'm still open to other options. Keep the comments coming... I'm asking for a reason... Thanks Chad

Are the connectors the fuse goes into clean? Mine were all corroded. Not fun trying to drive without a defroster...

Simplicity is another reason I am considering them. But will they ever be as powerful as the factory brakes?

I thought that the only difference between the newer ones and the older ones was that the pumps ran at different pressures. Couldn't an older pump be put in to achieve more pressure and easier steering? Maybe it's not the pump but some sort of regulator that could be changed out? Just thinking out loud...

Seriously, does that work?

So my brake booster is dying... http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=32834 I'm wondering what my options are. There is the obvious factory replacement, the bigger booster upgrade from a liberty or WJ or something like that, or possibly manual brakes. I don't really want to go with the bigger booster since it is bigger and heavier... My mind is already set on not going that route. So I'm wondering about manual brakes. My dad has an 83 CJ-5 with factory brakes and 33" tires and the brakes don't seem all that bad and the fluid hasn't been bled in around 10 years either. I'm only running 31" tires and I'm figuring that I could get an aftermarket system from somewhere that would work better than his factory setup from 83 if I were to go that route. How do you guys feel about this idea? Has any one already tried this? I'm thinking about the manual brakes for a couple reasons, First off there would be no booster taking up room under the hood, second there would be less weight, and third the brakes would work weather the engine is running or not. I have been is a couple situations were I was off road going up a steep hill and I managed to kill the engine. Right before It died, I mashed the clutch to try and save it which didn't work... So of course I'm rolling down a steep hill backwards while pushing the brake petal with all the strength I have and not even coming close to stopping. I should have let go of the clutch since it was already in gear but as I'm panicking, releasing the clutch is the last thing I'm going to think of. See why I would want my brakes to work with the engine off? Sorry for such a long post.. Thanks for any input :wrench: Chad

Pulled the drums and found a bunch of mud... cleaned them out real good. pads looked good.... Took the front passenger tire off and found some dirt/rocks wedged in between the dust shield and rotor... Got them out and no more squealing... Cleaned drivers side too.. Thanks Chad P.S. I OFFICIALLY HATE MUD

:eek: gonna go check...

My sister has a 2000 xj and the steering is definately harder than my 88 MJ. And my mj has 31" tires on it while the xj has stock tires.

So on saturday my friend and I were playing in the mud, nothin serious. I cleaned all the mud off the MJ sunday morning/afternoon. Drove to school today, on the way home I noticed the brake petal felt a little funny and there was a loud squealing noise. I'm guessing one of the calipers is stuck or something, any body got any ideas? Thanks Chad

Who ever originally bought it from the dealer must have been color blind because that interior is hideous! :eek: The diesel more than makes up for it though. :yes: Your probably gonna get all kinds of weird looks driving it around too.

That looks like an NV3550 shifter to me.... :hmm:

It's usually some one who works at a dealer ship and has access to all that stuff.

My brake petal makes a hissing noise when the truck is running and the petal is NOT pressed. If I press the petal a tiny bit, it stops. I haven't even looked at it besides just making sure I wasn't leaking fluid. I noticed It a few weeks ago. Any body have any ideas before I mess with it tomorrow? Thanks :wrench: Chad

How else could you be driving it?

You should be able to pull/push enough of the speedo cable through the fire wall to unclip it from the back of the gauge cluster... May have to push from underneath too... :wrench:

The track bar is the one that goes from the drivers side unibody to the passenger side of the axle. NOT the steering linkage. On mine, the TRE (tie rod end) on the end of the track bar wasn't so easy to remove. But getting the nut/ cotter pin out is the easy part. I always ended up using a 7 foot breaker bar to get the TRE out of the bracket. It's not that hard, you just gotta work at it.

Sway bar bushing? mine fell out one time.... :wrench:

Looks like some one beat me to it...