Boots

:doh: oops

That must have been a nice surprise.

Have you looked at XJ's mabe there close enough to work? :wrench:

2k seems like alot to me. Mine is a 4.0 litre 5-speed 4x4 swb and I got it for 700 plus some DMV fees. and it's rust free. But I guess that it all depends on were your at.

Were you driving on the road? How fast? Glad your okay. you can always get another one.

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=18149 http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=26226

I just did a tranny swap and it looked to me like the CPS reads off another wheel right behind to the fly wheel. Have you tried the O2 sensor? It could be telling the computer that it isn't burning right and that would inturn screw with the air/fuel mixture?

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj5-camper-547707/

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I just all 40 pages!Nice MJ. The doors are lookin pretty good. How long does it take you to swap between the regular doors and the cut doors?

and

I vote restore!

I replaced the alternator on mine not too long ago. It's easier to do it from the bottom. You won't have to remove the battery tray and I don't believe the alternator fits out the top any ways. The belt comes off just like mjMike said except you have to loosen another bolt on the end of the tensioner bolt. It should be pretty straight forward.

Ive thought about doing something like this. I thought that it would be better to cut out the crossmember and put the winch back further. That way it is really hidden. The factory one stuck out 3 inches and only fit a 6,000# winch, an 8,000# winch will stick out even further. Whatever would be built to hold the winch would be stronger than the factory crossmember. I thought about using a hydraulic winch that runs off the power steering pump since they seem to be smaller. Ive read other people's write ups on doing this and one thing to keep in mind is most winches arent designed to pull from their feet, so don't put it so the bottom is were the crossmember would be and have the cable run out the top of the winch. Your plans look pretty good, I would definately tap the holes so you don't have to use nuts on the bumper brackets. :wrench:

Definately pull the carpet and check for rust BEFORE you buy. Otherwise looks like a clean truck from the pics.

My uncle owns a body shop and that is what they use. I use Zylene, its kinda hard to find but works amazing for me. I don't think that it hurts the paint but mine is already messed up so I can't realy tell.

http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/xj_swap.htm Looks pretty clean to me.

Do you have the little hose that goes from the back of the valve cover to the intake manifold? If so, try cleaning it realy good. The plastic string stuff from a weed wacker works pretty good to break up the gunk.

If you don't like the rhino liner, it's not like you can't just put the carpet on top. Then you would have a super rust proof floor! :wrench:

This is the kit I used when I did mine. I'm pretty happy with it and have nothing to complain about except that I should have put sound deadener. With the carpet, the tranny hump definately feels warm but nowhere near hot enough to burn you. http://www.stockinteriors.com/AutoCarpet.asp?Itemid=2720&MakeId=14&ModelId=249

I was going to do something like that but decided not to. The floor has isn't flat, so I thought that I wouldn't look to good. But it would make it alot easier to clean and you would be able to detect leaks before they rot out the floors.

Mine had the duct tape splices in the tail light too! I also found some under the hood.

I know what they look like but I have seen pics of the NV1500 and it looks identical which is why I want to make sure. thanks

I just want to make sure that it is an NV3550. Just because the guy at the jy is saying thats what it came out of doesn't mean that is what it actually came out of, ya know what I mean? When I talked to him on the phone he sounded like kind of an @ss, and I don't want to get riped off. Isn't there a casting number that will tell me if that's what it is for sure? Thanks