hgeranium

Will absolutely do this. Have you done cruiser's VC mod along with this?

I would go through and check/clean all the grounds but I’m at work. I wanted to post this so I had a starting point for when I got off today and see what people say. If it’s not the starter itself, the most likely culprit I would imagine would be the ground cable on the starter itself. I’ve got a lot of oil leaking in the back, and the starter has plenty of gunk and oil on it. I also have not refreshed the dipstick tube ground yet, but I think that’s unlikely for this specific issue considering everything in the truck works perfectly other than the starter intermittently

Battery is 8 months old. No idea on the starter but I’ve never personally replaced it. Over the past week the truck has been intermittently, but becoming more frequent, cranking very slow. It’s cranking like the battery is out of juice, but I know it’s not. I tested it with the meter and it’s a perfect 12.4. I’m worried it’s the starter itself because it’s going to take me a couple of days to source one. Could it be some grounding or resistance issue? Both battery terminals are tight and free of corrosion. The truck will always end up starting up though. Sometimes it will go away and start up normally

I see exactly what you're talking about now. Great idea! I will try that next time I'm in a place to get some tubing

I think it depends on the speakers you put in there, or especially if you put a subwoofer. My money is you probably don't need an amp if you're running modest (aka not huge loud powerful) speakers with a factory HU

Do you have a picture of this plastic orifice? I have the rubber grommet that the PCV hose plugs into that goes between there and the intake. Is the plastic orifice you’re mentioning a part of the hose? Or do you have an HO or newer VC?

Mirroring what the other guys said, heat may be your best option. Out of all the parts on the engine, the manifold is what deals with the most heat so I think you’re in little danger of messing anything up applying heat

I think I’ve seen what you’re talking about with the breather on the forum before. I do wonder if it’s worth it to keep the CCV attached to the airbox to cut down on the smell. The dripping doesn’t bother me but letting it vent into the atmosphere is a smell I’m not a huge fan of. I imagine having the breather would stop the oil but still cause the crank case smell to come out.

Probably a dumb question but you need to upgrade to a new VC to run the 97+ PCV setup? Does it just allow for more vacuum like pizzaman’s solution is doing?

That’s what I thought at first too but I definitely do have vacuum. I’ve got a brand new grommet and hose on there. Like llhat said: you’re saying you drilled out the rear PCV grommet’s hole? And doing that the CCV hose going to the air filter is no longer dripping oil?

Set up normally, the CCV to airbox in renix 4.0s almost always lead to tons of oil in the air box. Cruiser made a fix in the book here regarding it but I've heard it's not a bulletproof solution, so I'd rather do the catch can and not worry about it. I was having to replace my air filter every month or two because of it when I first got the truck. Especially being at 190k my blowby is surely higher than normal

I have a quick question for those with catch cans installed or with knowledge on how they should fit. I'm wanting to hook up a catch can to my CCV hose to eliminate any possibility of oil dripping on the air filter. I have the hose disconnected and letting it vent and drip wherever. Better it smell bad then replace the air filter. I am thinking of going with a catch can like this: Question 1: What will be the best way to route this? Should I go from a) CCV -> inlet side then outlet side -> airbox? Or should I just have it b) go from CCV -> inlet? This particular kit has a little breather filter that goes on the top. I'm not sure which would be more efficacious to my goal or if the former option would still lead to oil coming through the air box but more slowly. There are also other kits that have the option to place steel wool inside the baffle to better hold the debris. This kit in particular doesn't seem to have that so I'm wondering if I can still put in steel wool or it's just a baffle. I'd rather spend a little extra money than save a little for the option to replace the filter element myself. The more expensive ones usually have a petcock to drain the fluid which would certainly justify the price in itself anyways. Question 2: If I go with the latter routing option, what is the best way to deal with the outlet port? Since it's already breathing up top, can I just put in a threaded plug? Or do I need to put in a tap and filter on that as well? It feels redundant at that point but I have no experience with these and would rather be sure.

That looks great. Do you have any weird electrical issues having LEDs in? I used to have LED bulbs in the taillights but they would intermittently go out or not blink when I used my blinkers. I switched back to halogens and my tails work perfectly again.

Thanks! It's a vinyl decal

That is an exact worry of mine! I wanted to clean up the lenses because I noticed how dismally dim they are during the day. I feel the same about the front side marker/turn signal bulbs. Good to see another Oracle supporter. Can you attach any pictures? I also worry about how the taillights actually look. I'm subconsciously worried that they will look too out of place and modern on the truck.

Looking for the chrome 4.0 badge that goes on the tailgate. I know I can find them on eBay but I’d rather support a member, especially if they have extra that they’re trying to get rid of. I’ll even take a 3-D print if anybody does those

Left/right before and after. I did everything by hand because I didn’t want to put that much effort into these old tail lights. They’re already cracked so I knew there’s only so much I can do for them. They certainly look a lot better though. At some point I’m sure I’ll pull the trigger on those key parts repops

It’s raining right now so my normally very faded tail lights look brand new. Knowing what they could look like really makes me want to restore them. Does anyone have any good experiences doing so? Or is it more worth it to buy one of those aftermarket OE sets? Or maybe the Oracle lights?

She's a beaut! Congratulations man

I think its an HO from the PCV but just to confirm is your 4.0 a Renix or HO? How does the vacuum line from the MAP sensor to the throttle body look? I can't tell 100% from the picture but I don't think I even see one. I'm not well versed in the HO vs Renix differences on vacuum but check out the EGR vac lines (should be 2-3? I have mine capped off so I don't remember), fuel pressure reg to manifold, and PCV on the rear of the VC (renix has a vac line for this but I don't know about HO)

Never turn down the opportunity to learn! I'm in the same boat as you with many of these intermediate-to-advanced automotive things but if you have the time (and money) then why not throw your hat in the ring?

Thank you so much! I will DM you with my shipping details

Finally, Jenga with REAL consequences

Good looks! I'll add that to my infinitely increasing internal inventory of acronyms