hgeranium

What the heck is an ISA?

I think we have a certain electrical guru on this very site that could help with this captcha..

Yep, that's actually where I'm moving back to. I bought a starter house there that I'll get to move back into this summer. Thank y'all! Philosophy but I'm planning on using it like any non-specialized business degree. Plus that aggie network should get me pretty far in itself lol

Luckily the state of Texas and Texas A&M hooked me up. No loans and all I’ve needed to do this whole time was pay for books. It pays to be a transfer student!

So is the truck still running rough right now? Also how do the EGR vac lines look? You may have done this already but if it’s still running poorly, you can try to find the source with brake cleaner

This old truck did a great job getting me through college

Since the vac line just kind of sticks into the hole in the throttle body, enough vibrations and enough bad luck can cause it to come loose and leak vacuum or come out entirely. The former and the latter have both personally happened to me. Worth a check

How does the MAP sensor to throttle body vac line look? If you haven't done cruiser's fix to install a threaded tap then the vac connection is a bit dicey

What 89MJ said. The Renix one is what you're looking for

I need a few more days of consistent evidence but I believe I have found the culprit of a problem that has been plaguing me since I bought this truck four years ago. Since it was something intermittent and idle related, it mostly made sense for it to be the IACV. I’ve never been able to find any vacuum leaks. I would replace the IACV and the truck would go back to normal for a little bit. however, the IACV pigtail has always been missing its retaining clip. It just slides in and friction holds it together. I never thought it was an issue because since the connector was pointing down, I figured gravity was also holding it in place. After wiggling around that connector, the high rev starts vanished immediately. I have started the truck eight or 10 times since then and it has started perfectly. So, I bought a replacement pigtail that has a retaining clip and hopefully this should be it. I guess it makes sense that the engine vibrations would move the connector and pins around just enough to ‘unplug’ the IACV. I’m assuming the plug would move out of place after driving, cause issues on startup, then the vibrations would potentially reestablish a connection until the process repeated on the road. I’m also willing to bet that a new IACV seemed to fix the problem temporarily because I would unplug and re-plug the connector more snugly. Hopefully I’m not coming back in a few days to report that the problem has returned, but I absolutely have no vacuum leaks and the CTS looks OK. Plus, this sort of occurrence is the only thing that would explain the intermittence of this whole problem I should’ve used Occam’s razor to check the simplest solutions first, but this sort of thing never occurred to me. Maybe if I had mentioned that the connector didn’t have a clip, somebody would’ve told me way earlier lol.

How’s fuel pressure?

This is a very dumb question, but are you recommending I should unplug the sensor and probe the connectors with the engine running all the way through cold start to warm idle? Or are you saying to check the resistances at varying temperatures with the engine off (like check it when it's cold, let it warm up then turn it off and check it etc.)? I just would be worried about running the engine for an extended period of time with the thing unplugged. As you can probably tell, electrical diagnostics are not my strong suit, so what may seem obvious to most people is certainly not for me.

No REM on hand but I do have a spare CTS that I have yet to install. The one that supplies the ECU specifically. I could throw it on for good measure since I already have one. I still have the issue even when it’s warmed up. Does that make the CTS any more or less likely?

Mini bump. Problem is continuing to get worse so I would appreciate some feedback on if the IACV/man gasket hypothesis sounds OK, or some other cause/sensor

Wow, I've made I think 3 separate posts on this same issue. It's come back again so I'll just necro this thread instead of starting another. After putting in my third IACV last November, this issue seemed to have subsided (coincidentally or not). I sort of forgot about it and it was running and starting fine. Sometimes on the first or second crank and very smooth which was unheard of. Anyways, as of a week or two ago, the thing has returned. I finally had enough wisdom to get a video of it: This is a mild case because the needle came back down quite fast. In the past it would stick for minutes or entire trips at a time, driving like the throttle is partially open. Brakes while in drive were barely enough to keep it still. The problem hasn't gotten to that point in this cycle just yet but it's getting there. I had the idle stick at 2100-2200 for 15-20 seconds a few days ago. I've noticed that this issue will creep up in severity, get so bad that the truck is nearly undriveable, then go away again for a few weeks or months. Putting it in reverse/drive usually always fixes the idle RPMs too, which is strange (except in the cases where the throttle sticks). This specifically really makes me think it's the crappy IACV failing me intermittently I'm on my third IACV, with that being said it is a standard ignition unit and three duds in a row is not unheard of. I can get a mopar sensor but it will surely cost me quite a bit of coin, so I don't want to shell out for it if I don't have to. Manifold bolts are all tight, but I still have not replaced the gasket. I have the tip on getting the remflex already. The gasket looks decent from what sticks out from the corners but I know that doesn't mean much for what's actually doing gasket stuff. Throttle position sensor is new as of a few years ago and voltage is set correctly. I haven't checked the voltage recently so I may double check it soon just to make sure. I have a very simplified vacuum system. HO air box with the EGR delete. PCV to intake is fine (new PCV hose and grommet), MAP to TB is sort of sketchy because I have yet to do cruiser's fix on it but I don't think it's leaking at all. Spraying brake clean directly on the hole doesn't mess with the idle at all. FPR to intake is also in perfect shape. I still have the EGR itself on there but I have a brand new gasket and it's all capped off accordingly. When I have some spare coin I'm planning on getting boxyjeep's EGR plate. Brand new TB gasket With all this being said, I'm thinking it either has to be another failed IACV or the manifold gasket. The cyclical nature of this problem is what confuses me, though. Could it be another sensor like the MAP going bad? I wouldn't think so because other than the startup, it drives and idles perfectly (until it doesn't). It really does feel like a vacuum issue or the IACV getting stuck and letting a ton of air in, mimicking a slightly open throttle. At this point I think I may just have to bite the bullet and get a new intake gasket to at least cross that off the list. I just wanted some final opinions before I order the remflex.

Update: I went and double checked the truck and I am a quart low from the time I did the job to now. There is definitely quite a big leak coming from somewhere, it’s just not as obvious like getting dripped on the exhaust made it previously

I don't see why it wouldn't, right? The CPS itself is a pretty simple sensor

From what I can tell, if it's leaking it's certainly not from the same area. The fix definitely did some good as that whole area around the OFA is as clean as when I put it back on. I am still getting a slight oil burning smell (not near what it was a few weeks ago) that I have yet to track down, but at this point it has to be from the valve cover gasket which is an easy enough fix that I just need to find the time for.

only $173 extra to receive your parts a whole two days earlier!

My links and bushings look just as crusty as yours lol. And I agree with dirtycomanche. If you're going through all the work to take em off you might as well replace the whole link. They're not too expensive and I'd bet it'll be the last time it would ever have to be done for the life of the truck.

My friend. I like the way you think lol. Saves me from having to get JB weld and the correct drill bits lol. Honestly sounds like it will be very effective for the amount of effort and cost.

Good idea! Thank you.

As title says. I’ve mysteriously lost my side marker lens twice now. I think there’s something wrong with the headlight bezel trim because that side doesn’t feel right when I’m putting the retaining screws in. Right side is completely fine and I use the same size and thread screws. I don’t want to have to keep getting lenses. Should I just bite the bullet and get a new bezel? Or can somebody give me the dimensions of the screws that they’re using to hold their side marker?