hgeranium

That's some clean bodywork

That almost rivals the dead 2.5 thread that @eaglescout526has in his sig

So clean! Tow mirrors look great

@neohicWow, thanks for all the new reading material! I never took you for the CC archivist

I'm with eagle on this one. It sounds like the action of pushing on the brake is cutting power somewhere so +1 to checking at and around the pedal.

Yep something that’s funny is I made a thread a little while back asking about the eliminator wheel center caps with the part number. Now when you look up that part number, my specific thread is near the top, even if you don’t use any other words but the part number Edit: I am the proud second result if you even just look up "jeep comanche eliminator wheel center caps", first being an ebay listing for them.

Lol my GMC out of my six cars (two of them being VWs!) has by far given me the most issues. And it was nothing but electrical wiring issues. I love that truck but it was an absolute nightmare. I must’ve just been incredibly unlucky picking the truck that I did. My Comanche is by far the most reliable vehicle I’ve owned in comparison

Maybe try the baking soda trick when flushing to see if you can loosen up any clogs in the passages/rad? That did wonders on my 94 C1500 that had buckets of rust and crud in the radiator and passages. I wonder if just putting in a new rad after flushing it would be worth it, at least for peace of mind.

Thank you! And you will absolutely need to use a box end wrench. There is zero room for any sort of ratchet or breaker bar. I tried the breaker bar from the top and from the bottom before I gave up and went to harbor freight. There's just zero clearance, not to mention how little there becomes as you're loosening it. If you were to somehow get a wrench and socket on there, I bet it would get stuck when you back the bolt out enough. So, break it loose with a 5/8 using the 3/4 for leverage, and then finish the rest with the ratcheting wrench (5/8 or 16mm, if you have a RW). It's a long bolt so the RW makes it a lot easier This is the trick. You need to use a wrench that is about 2 sizes larger than the one you're using to remove the bolt. Getting the orientation is a little strange at least for me especially if the wrenches have a bit of offset (because that will change the direction and orientation of the leverage wrench that you need to have), but I just practiced hooking them up a bunch before I took the bolt off. Holding the 5/8 on the bolt while squirming to get the 3/4 hooked on was kind of annoying but once its on there it won't come loose at all. Even though I know how to do it, I still end up having to practice and watch a video sometimes to do it lol. If that makes me a newbie, so be it. I just tend to overthink little things like this Yes, I used the FP 70301 for the big boy, then used an o ring kit that used AS568 sizes. 117 for the little o ring on the bolt, and 219 for the intermediate size o ring on the OFA that mates up with the bolt. There was a tiny bit of clearance on the 117 o ring but it didn't seem to be a problem, just in case you notice it when doing the job yourself.

I assume you're not losing any coolant? If it's the head gasket again I would imagine it won't be long until your radiator runs low and you start having chocolate milk. What kind of 4.0 do you have? Renix?

I was just in for a major scare after my drive! All seemed well until I pulled back into the complex to park and that's when I smelled the burning oil smell again. Not nearly as potent as last time but I felt my PTSD kick in. I quickly parked and checked under to still see no leaks! This is the first time I've driven the truck since I brought it home after the whole leak fiasco on Sunday so in hindsight it's pretty stupid of me not to take that into account To confirm that things are OK and the residual oil just needs to burn off, my OFA is still clean as a whistle. I can at least confidently say that I installed the o rings correctly and I don't have any more leaks coming from that area specifically. I need to do a good powerwashing and degreasing like somebody recommended to see how much damage my RMS and/or VCG is causing. It's kind of unfortunate that I will have to give it a few days for the oil to burn off to really be able to smell test if there's any external oil burning on the exhaust again but at least I didn't make anything worse doing this repair

A leader exhibiting true benevolence! We love you Pete

@AnotherOldJeepGuyI just finished the job on my truck with success! (So far) I ended up needing to buy regular box end SAE wrenches for it because I only had metric AND they were all ratcheting wrenches. You are correct in saying that it is a 5/8 or a 16mm. I had to do the double wrench trick with a 5/8 and a 3/4 to break it loose, then swapped to my 16mm ratcheting wrench to get it off completely. The only actual difficult part of this job was getting that bolt loose, which was only exacerbated by the fact that I needed to make a trip to Harbor freight in the middle. this was the condition of the o rings. Completely flat and hard as a rock. I couldn’t even see the smallest o ring on the bolt itself, I just happened to know that it was there from doing my research. If I didn’t do research I would’ve had more issues finding it. It totally blended in with the gunk and oil. I impulse bought a set of picks at HF and thank God that I did. They were so difficult to remove even with the picks. The smallest one I ended up just having to cut a piece of it to pull it out. this is what it looks like after. Good as new. Getting the O-rings in with a bit of the oil that came out was very simple. I also wiped it down more after taking the pictures, just in case some of y’all thought I put it back on dirty. I idled it for a few minutes and I didn’t see a drop of oil which was a far cry from Sunday. It’s not confirmed to be fixed yet because I still need to drive it around for a while and see if the pressure lets any oil leak out. I cleaned the area around the adapter so I can see if any new seepage forms. All in all this is a very easy fix. Even if it doesn’t fully solve my problem, it was definitely a huge part of it and it’s something I’ll never have to worry about changing again. Thank you to @Eagle_SX4for pointing me towards this. I honestly didn’t even know the 4.0 had an oil filter adapter and O-rings within it to begin with until he told me lol. Learn something new everyday. It was so dirty down there everything just looks like one part of the block. @AnotherOldJeepGuythe only sort of annoying/inconvenient part is getting the adapter aligned. There’s a little rod that sticks out from the block that keeps it oriented a specific way. I just tightened the main bolt without worrying about the adapter until it was snug and you can kind of twist and feel it set in the place, then you can fully tighten it. I would imagine that, if misaligned, quite a bit of oil would come out at startup and shouldn’t be too difficult of a fix to tweak it. sorry if this is super long and/or has weird formatting issues. I’m typing this on my phone outside before I clean up and put away my tools and it’s hard to gauge how much I’ve written on the phone compared to my computer

That’s interesting! I never would’ve thought it would be different based on what bolt you had, but I guess it makes sense that they’re separate parts with slightly different o rings.

Well said and very true. I definitely didn’t want my question to come off that way, I was just interested in some more interesting bits of the forums history

Nice. It’ll be good to get an official answer for science! And for the good of 4.0 owners everywhere

Maybe if he talked about it he’d feel a lot better…

Awwww come on. Enlighten us newbies Edit: I’ll buy your set of Bosch fogs and a passenger sun visor (charcoal) in a few months if you tell us!

Yeah I guess that’s what people were talking about having varying luck with them. How hard could it possibly be, fel-pro? Instead of making kits for each application (Renix and HO) they cut costs and make an all in one kit that fits neither of them lmao. Are you still going to try the kit? My o ring assortment comes in today so I will keep you posted this evening on my luck with that

@derfSo unrelated but I just noticed what your signature is from ALL I WANTED WAS A PEPSI, AND SHE WOULDNT GIVE IT TO ME!!

This forum has been around for a long time. It’s pretty quiet nowadays but I’m wondering if, in the past, there were any major infighting or some troublesome members? I feel like there has to have been a fair share of trolls and bad actors that have found their way into the forum throughout the decades.

I didn’t even know an XJ or MJ could hit 120 lol. I’ve never even been able to get my speedometer pegged as it is with the stock gearing and ratios

https://www.ksuspensionfab.com/store/p8/Remanufactured%3A_4_Port_Upgraded_Fuel_Injectors_XJ%2FMJ.html#/ I was planning on picking these up until I found out PO already put on 746s

Still need access on my end