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^^^ xlnt advice , one could also access the starter relay and test fuel pump by unplugging connector for fuel pump and applying 12v to that wire, this bypasses the relay and the ballast resistor, pump would run continuously on my 89, the terminal was beside of the large stud at the top of the relay shown on the top left in the image below. this terminal has power applied during the start cycle and drops out after you release the key,

in my case sylvania LED for the 1156 bulb had fitment issues in the stock socket. would insert, but would not twist to secure. tried multiple positions, just would not twist and I ruined one making an attempt..... have no some sylvania 'star' 1156 and will be trying them instead. OP's Amazon link .. on sale seem like a decent deal....

thank you for the additional responses. am aware of techniques with removal, as well as using jumper for pump. sending back to folks i hired out to replace pump recently... did not DYI as I just did not want to lie on gravel to man-handle this thing. I DID years ago replace the tank myself after a rust hole was developed from contact with skid plate insulators, a new tank.... and years ago replaced pump myself... but just not this time. should be able to update next week.

flat ground drips on concrete accumulated drip on bottom of tank but bottom of tank is solid, not rusted out... and it did not leak before first fill-up / nor while driving after pump replacement.

agree, and it did not leak before filling, such are my suspicions of the vent on top that is more difficult to access... ( murphy's law)

long bed, the rear one.... now unsure IF from that vent or fuel sender.... recent fuel pump replacement hired out... believe it is going back to them. was not full of fuel on return, drove it around a bit to see how it worked and get a known position on fuel gauge before filling only rounded off to next tenth gallon or so, did not pack the tank. discovered leak.

Question Can the fuel tank vent hose connections be accessed without completely dropping the tank? Have one hose that mysteriously became disconnected, no problem until I filled the tank, and then... leako...

was going to try some LED, got some fairly expensive sylvania from O.Rei, 1156. two pack they would not fit into the socket (would insert, but could not turn and lock in place) actually messed up one of them trying to twist the original 1156 would simply twist into place. somehow got the second one in the package to 'barely' secure, will see how long before it vibrates loose, then will go back to regular 1156 bulbs...

i posted in the DYI section on an OLD post, a member suggested I link to it here for any 'new' input and responses, as the images in that old post are dead.

was there not a thread about the 'correct' and 'best' O2 sensors available 'now'?

hate dragging this up from the dead, but... as the images are no longer available, is this the front (nearest radiator) port on the valve cover? and feeding to the air box? seems like a potential solution for the non-fitting J hose on the dorman harnesses....

i attempted to insert the used hard hose into the nipple on the air box, it will not insert.... what did you do to make it work? best i can tell the OD of the hard hose on the harness is 'about' 9/16" (probably metric), but the OD of the fitting on the air box is 5/8" went in a rabbit hole searching for bulkhead fittings.... not so fun seems dorman or someone would mold up a hose like the original with larger end at the end of the J to FIT the airbox.... it is not like there are NO vehicles out there in need of these components.. they made a snit ton of harnesses, why not make em 'right'??

Any other input on this ... either J hose or fitment stated above about a small section of old harness to fit up the smaller dorman hose? Maybe a bulkhead connector sized for the dorman j hose relocated to a new hole ??

purchased my 89 pioneer in 1997 with 72k on speedo, a one-owner I drove it on a 27mile one way to work on a regular basis until about 2001, when driven often, it was reliable and would do 23mpg on occasion, consistent 21 I changed jobs, did not drive it as much, still have it, but regulated to 1000mi / year max estimated. just recently had some issues, now sorted out ... with exception of rear main seal @ 169k miles just unsure if a RMS replacement would even work.... would like to have it painted, but that is now even more expensive... probably more than truck value. to me, anytime a vehicle sits more than driven, costs increase to keep em going. and YEP parts are more difficult to find !!!

but.. it looks like there's a clear coat issue on top of the blue... like my dark gray pioneer.

after going back and again checking the items suggested by OHM (thank you!) the only other thing left was a TCU I looked thru evilbay, and finally sourced a unit the seller indicated was working (he also offered a 'cheep' unit but stated "parts only). I communicated with them and he would not indicate 'that one' would be a good unit. Not the 'best' of $$$ deals, but.... (if anyone knows of a decent supplier let me know I may buy a spare) Item arrived 11/27 and today i installed, but before doing so re-checked voltages at C232, pins C8 and C9 I did get voltage per the shift position, and I had backup lights.. so the NSS replacement was also a positive, but now even with voltage at the pin with lever in D, no shift, no start in 1 I R&R the TCU with the sourced unit, buttoned it up and knocked on some wood. hoo ray! Have not given a long drive 'yet' but enough to know the vehicle starts moving in gear 1, and shifts on its own. Road was blocked by utility construction, so my drive was cut short, will give er a go a bit later today to test converter lockup I want to extend a BIG to OHM and others that responded to this thread. Hope to repay the favor one day.

just a bump for any additional ideas....

update now... been busy ... then recovering... Lift repair (replace 20 y.o. hydraulic hoses) it's been years since i have been up and down a 12ft ladder so much.... so today I replaced the Neutral Safety Switch on the AW4, with lift it was not "too" bad of a job. Mixed results... I do NOW have reverse lights, and no-start in 'gears', and start only in N or P ( did not have reverse lights initially) but.......... made zero difference in transmission "still" tries to start in probably 3rd gear with selector in D, and when i manually shift to 1, i get 1 was tired so walked away from it. I think next is to go back a few posts and Key ON C234 not connected to TCU Gearshift "1" position c234 D7-C8 voltage? Gearshift "D" position C234 D7-C9 voltage? tired today... will drop lower dash again tomorrow and test unless something else is suggested... i have since also installed new positive and negative battery leads and cleaned grounds.

once i get to this I will update I send a sincere Thank you for all of your assistance

today's test. Key ON C234 not connected to TCU No, BU lamps not illuminating Gearshift "1" position c234 D7-C8 11.8v (backstab) Gearshift "D" position C234 D7-C9 no voltage would make assumption TCU not getting signal for D position, and running shift logic engine starts only in P or D lever position. I have a NSS here, (new, evilbay procured) also making assumption it is correct (taiwan) noting the 8 cavity female terminal has only 6 terminals active cavity D & F are blank. do not know 'when' i will install it, or go through the 'rebuild' of the original switch. http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoNSSrebuild.htm removal is necessary for either path. thoughts?

i understand where you are going. these are telling the TCU 'what i want to do' will test tomorrow and report question.. C9 and C8 fed from NSS? I will look at diagram while watching tv tonite. thank you!

ok, now maybe something to get out of the rabbit hole, C234 disconnected from TCU, C114 connected under hood. C234 terminal D7 continuity to chassis ground ( door hinge for negative) C234, Backstab D7, C16 = 15 ohms C234, backstab D7, C15 = ~14 ohms C234, backstab D7, C14, 13.5 ohms I still cannot explain 'why' no continuity when checking female side of C114, and of interest C114 cavity B will not check to ground continuity. but i have not backstabbed C114 on any terminal. but at C234, it would seem the solenoids are 'ok' and the harness to the transmission and solenoids is 'ok' what conclusions can be now obtain, or next test ?

thanks again, i believe that is the path forward, but it will have to wait until i get my lift functioning again, to old and fat to work on the ground or concrete. I did just now pull apart C114 and again on female side (to transmission) could not get a read between "B" (ground) or G, F, or E I CAN see the edge of the terminal and have confidence i am contacting the terminals on the face of the connector. it is almost impossible it seems to back probe those on that connector. I do wonder a bit if there's a way to verify @ c234 C16 to D7 for S1, C15 to D7 for S2, C14 to D7 for S3 ? C16 is output from TCU S1 through C114, D7 is ground. Just a wondering how that stationary cable could just go 'bad' from C114 to transmission... Can understand if maybe one of the solenoid wires inside the case deteriorated inside the pan and 'poof' but all 3??

Connector 234, detached from TCU negative to body ground, my probe would not enter on face of connector, so back probed D14 12.6 volts ignition switch ON D16 11.6 volts (fluke meter) also checked D7 continuity to ground. OK. Again, thanks in advance for your troubles. Next?