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I love how in the first commercial, from 1989, they're offering 0% interest, while the 1986 commercials are really excited about 8.8% interest. The times, they were a-changin'.

Sam, I have to say, that's some good looking spraying. That WJ is looking pretty darn nice.

It's not my cup of tea. However, I've watched some friends do fiberglass work, and I can appreciate the amount of time and effort it must have taken, if that's as nice as it looks.

Try this out... http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/ste ... /1219.html Although you have some green wires that aren't accounted for in their diagram... I think my greens were a rear speaker.

My control arm bushings are getting tired, and I may as well upgrade, rather than just replace what I have. Anyone have a set of WJ Control arms they're not using? I'd take them off your hands.

How's the clutch?

Way to go, man. I left college four years ago, and I'm going back to finish this fall. I've seen how limiting the world can be when you don't have a degree. Even if you know your stuff, you'll still get passed over in favor of someone with letters after their name.

If you can find a D44 out of a Comanche, it will bolt in. A Cherokee axle will require new spring perches to be welded on, as the Cherokee is Spring-over-axle and the Comanche is Spring-under axle.

I bought an A4 used when I was 22. Geico/Progressive wanted $250/month or more per month, but State Farm gave me a rate of $120/mo for better coverage. Pays to shop around.

Find an 8.25 or a D44 at the yard. Pull the cover. Are any of the teeth missing, pitted, or worn? Is there a lot of play? If the answer to either question is yes, that axle will need some work. If not, that's a decent start. The D35 is an ok axle. Some guys have beat the tar out of them, and still got 200k miles. Some guys DD it and need a new one before 100k. The issue, like the Peugeot transmission, is that if you're going to be spending the money anyway, why not upgrade instead of just replacing with another similar piece? My $.02.

Ok, so I've finally had a chance to track down some possibilities. The u-joint where the driveshaft connects to the rear axle has more play in it than I suspect it should. Time to go get a new one - what are the idiot mistakes to avoid when changing the u-joint? Should I be doing the U-joint at the tranny as well? It didn't seem like it had play, but why not change it while the shaft is out, right? Speaking of that... tips on pulling the shaft? It all seems reasonably self-explanatory, but as I'm now in an apartment parking lot, instead of my carport at my old house, I'd like to be able to pull it apart and have it buttoned back up in one day.

This is a vehicle specific advice forum. While lots of guys here know their stuff, it's national, so coming over to your place and helping out in return for some suds is usually not feasible. Local 4x4 clubs? Let me Google that for you. :cheers: http://tinyurl.com/5wzfchn

What are you hoping to accomplish with the rebuild - is there something wrong with the motor now?

I was thinking the same thing. Swap those out for something less chrome-y, and I think you'd have a neat looking little truck. I'd be a little nervous of the suspension - probably all homebrewed.

Buhhhhh... That'll teach me to ignore the "graphic picture warning" at breakfast.

Motor mounts are next on my list - let me know if you come up with any brilliant solutions.

Thanks for the tips, fellas. A Cherokee frame sounds like just the ticket.

So, I just moved from Arizona, where a front plate isn't required, to Idaho, where it is. My bumper has no mounting holes for a front plate - what kind of creative solutions have y'all come up with to mount one?

You're welcome to come replace as many of my 2wd parts with your 4wd parts as you like... I'll even provide the suds for when it's done :brows:

First off, which motor do you have? Second, what is a "long time?" Third, when was the last time a tune-up was done? That'd be my first line of thinking if it's been a while.

I was pulling 20 or 21 with my O2 sensor going out... I was hoping for a nice bump too, but it didn't happen.

If the gas filler door is centered between the cab and rear wheel well, it's a short bed. If not, it's a long bed. Cherokee lifts - I believe all the front pieces will work. Rears are different. Trans... AX-15 on the left, Pukey on the right.

My '89 had a hesitation under acceleration - it would bog down for a second, then go like you wanted it to. It turned out to be the oxygen sensor. Kinda spendy, but it made a world of difference.

CpjPIj1YF0M If we're just doing burnout videos, I think a rig with a little more character is in order. That being said, I've long been a fan of smaller cars/trucks, for the efficiency/ease of daily driving factor, but when I married a girl whose family had a 2500 Ram Diesel, I've taken every opportunity possible to drive that thing. I love it. Nice and high, for a commanding view, torque to spare, and it'll tow anything I'd ever put behind it. Very nice truck.