tbrand

It's a good thing you're bringing that Cherokee badge in the tool kit. Never know when you'll need one of those on the side of the road. :D

Saw this while I was out running around, and sure enough, Craig had it on his list. '88 Olympic Edition Auto 4x4 This is the ad: 1988 Jeep Comanche 4x4 pick-up. 4.0 6 cyl. 163K. No leaks. Includes camper shell. Long time owner. Daily driver. 208-863-1394 http://boise.craigslist.org/cto/2660348249.html

Ha, tried that. My BFH isn't B enough. I'll just grind them down more this weekend.

I found a friend with a nice grinder, and spent a good portion of yesterday afternoon grinding down my WJ LCA's to fit. Got them down to what looked plenty small enough, and today... no fit. Grr. Back to the grind again. This is where I'd really love a beater car to run around in, so I can park the MJ as I work on it. This marks the second time one of the LCA's has come off, only to go back on because of my incompetence.

My truck came with a set of nearly-new Falken Landairs, and they have been terrific for my totally street-driven truck. Quiet, long-wearing, and I'm sure they're not the lowest common denominator on the ride front. If you do a lot of off-roading, I have no idea. Never been on anything scarier than a potholed dirt road.

Did you not get a title when you bought the truck, or have you lost it in the meantime?

When I called my Jeep dealer, he laughed and said it was NLA. Got mine from AutoZone - $30 with a lifetime warranty. It's been in there for almost a year, and works fine.

As I understand it, you can't just bolt a transfer case up to a 2wd transmission. Being an '89, it's a 50/50 shot on the AX-15.

How are your fab skills?

Keep your foot out of it, and the 2.5 should return 20-25 mpg. Plenty of guys get better than that on the highway, and plenty get worse in town. All depends on how you drive.

:agree: If you think you'll want to cut bits off your truck, find a truck that has a body in bad shape. Don't cut up a nice truck, especially if it's rust-free. It's easy to trim, and very hard to get back to stock.

Personally, if it's going to be a DD, keep it as close to stock as possible. Sure, it looks cool on meaty 33's and a lift, but going down the road, all that off-road traction is just whining away. I say, if you must lift it, do the budget boost/Chevy shackles, get a set of 31's and call it a day. You'll still have a sweet truck, but you won't have to deal with the inconveniences of a jacked-up rig.

Your key may not come out without pushing down on a little button/lever near the ignition switch (where the key goes, not the actual switch). Your middle finger should fall right on it when you're turning the truck off. If you like, I'll go take a picture of mine tomorrow when it's light out, so you know what to look for.

It wasn't a stock option. The full-size Wagoneers came with them, I believe, but they're 6-bolt, so you'd have to find a 44 rear out of an Isuzu Rodeo/Honda Passport to match. I have no idea about fab requirements.

So what you're saying is that the driver side tire sticks out more than normal, and the passgener side is negative-camber, similar in theory to this?

The only thing I can think of is the rust-free bit, but my truck has zero rust and I have no illusions that it's worth $5k.

On my 4.0, replacing a bad O2 sensor fixed several drivability issues. If your timing is good, you might check that.

It has some stuff working that's expensive to fix (A/C, etc) but a 2wd with paint in that shape? Yikes. He's probably going off of NADA classic value, which was $7-8k last time I looked. Good for him if he can get it - the more people pay for these trucks, the more all of our trucks are worth! :yes:

Is it stuck on full, or does it start at empty and move towards full as you drive around and use up fuel?

If the fluid is low, it's getting out somewhere. Either your cap wasn't tightened down, or you have a leak somewhere. It could be a very small, one-drop-at-a-time leak that you'd never notice, especially if your truck has an underside coated with oil, like mine. Double check your fuse panel - if that is wet at all, there's a good chance you've got a CMC leak.

It's possible air got into the system, in which case you'd need to bleed it. Not difficult - just find the bleeder valve under the truck, hook up some tubing into a container with ~2 inches of brake fluid in it. Have a friend pump the clutch 10 or 15 times and then hold it while you crack the valve and let the old fluid out, then tighten. Repeat until clutch is firm. If the clutch won't firm up, you've got a leak.

Under the hood, on the firewall, on the driver's side is the clutch master cylinder. Make sure that's full of brake fluid. It's next to the brake master cylinder.

3.54 and 3.55 are essentially the same ratio - you won't have any issues.

Have you checked the level of fluid in your clutch master cylinder? If that's low, it can foul things up.

Yeah, 30 PSI is no good. Normal should be... 120-150ish, I think. The experts over at Wikipedia say that the auto behind the 2.5 was a Chrysler A904, not an AW4. If you read this article over at allpar, it sounds like the 2.5 was carried on for quite a while, albeit with different fuel-delivery systems. http://www.allpar.com/mopar/amc-25.html The problem they may have with diagnosis is that your Jeep uses Renix electronics, which are reasonably simple to diagnose, if one is handy with a multimeter and wiring diagrams. However, if your mechanic's idea of diagnosis is plugging in a machine and replacing the part it tells him to replace, your truck will be a mystery to him. Someone who's done it will chime in with the best idea for your situation, but given the number of vehicles produced with that engine, I can't imagine a rebuild would be worth it.