danbyrambler

http://stlouis.craig...3361264751.html

Wrong time of the year for cheap/bargain rifle prices - - - Anyway, nay on both - - - 7,62X39 SKS chambering is a little light for Missouri deer IMO - - It'll do, but strictly a short range number - - The deer population-density or whatever in the river hills south of St Louis has been huge forever & I've filled my farm tags every season for well over 40 years using commonly available rounds from 30 carbine to 30-06 - - Never did enjoy tracking & no/scant blood trail because of no exit wound makes for extra tough going - - - The Mosin sights, trigger, stock & heft all add up to making it ok for still/stand hunting - - -bullet wts of 165 & up will insure complete penetration from any angle out to about 200 yds - - - Missouri requires soft/hollow point ammo for deer hunting & that's about as logical as it gets anymore - - - Air rifles, spears, crossbows, the removal of minimum chamberings & a few other bone heads guarantee lots of lost/wounded deer. If home defense is a concern better off with a shotgun & FWIW if you've never experienced anything concerning you/bad guys - it aint like on tv - still, it's better to be prepared - good luck.

SHAME ON ME FOR LAUGHING - - - Anyway, take a little of your oil & water coolant & put it in your refridges freezer compartment & you'll see - - - FWIW - Cheap means of making brandy - - Freeze wine - decant I LEFT MY HOME THE WORLD TO ROAM WHEN I WAS JUST A LAD AND SOME WOULD SAY THAT IN MY DAY I OVER DID IT JUST A TAD I LEARNED TO DRINK AND DIDN'T SHRINK FROM GOING AT IT FULL EAT 'TWAS ANCHORS AWEIGH AND WHAT THE HEY! NO BIGGER THIRST IN THE FLEET i'D HIT THE SHORE, READY TO SOAR TIL CLOSING TIME WAS CALLED THEN TIGHT AS A LOON, MAYBE HOWL AT THE MOON OR TAKE A LADY HOME TO GET - - BREAKFAST! SPENT A FULL TON INDULGING IN FUN, PAID FOR IN CASH, SOMETIMES BARTER BUT I DON'T THUNK, I EVER GOT SO DRUNK, I TRIED MIXING OIL WITH WATER

Used advance search options - - - - yeah, nothing for Jeeps on EB from them but lots of stuff for other makes - - I'd select one of their eBay listings for like a Ram truck 2" spacer & use the "ask a question" feature to inquire about XJ / MJ

The box below contains the User IDs that this member has used on eBay. User ID Effective Date End Date supreme.suspensions Oct-04-11 Present blacktunaroll Jan-30-06 Oct-04-11

:agree: Kind of - - - Set the toe to Factory - - Zero - - - Now there's gotta be/gonna be a little slop in every system; Make 1/16 r less toe-in your max error limit unless some one can come up with a real world way for identical coefficient of friction for the front tires, then you could probably get away with a little more - Another reason for zero toe being so important is the track bar - - Going up 3-3.5 inches will mean a stock TB is gonna put the axle about 3/8" to the Driver side - No biggie with ZT - Camber doesn't apply unless you're dialed in at over 8-9* caster - - That's when bumps/uneven pavement can make the tire want to steer like a motorcycle - - - tire imbalance, bent rims, loose/worn steering box - - - - all the little things are cumulative - - - ZT can tolerate a fair amount, but a little Toe in/out & a little more wear here & there & Death Wobble is gonna happen - - - - - - My 89 MJ's pretty stock - - Wheels/Tires very close to stock - PO did a 3" lift with a spring swap - 3" confirmed by direct compare with my bone stock 87 MJ - UCAs, LCAs, TB & all other suspension stock - - Caster was 10 - - removed two point 9s & one 4mm from each LCA & caster back to indicated 7.5 on my protractor - - - - No DW with 10* until idiots at alignment shop ignored me & set things to their liking - - - Big time DW afterwards for a few until I got things sorted out & back to zero - Used 2 straight edges secured with rubber straps for alignment & ball joint thing for caster - - removed shims by loosening rear LCA bolt, the 2 shim bolts & undoing TB at the knuckle mount - - - Then started truck, put in reverse, backed a few feet, stompa da brakes, shut off, get out & pick up shims. 2nd pic is how I measured the toe - Two panel hangers from Home Depot electrical dept - two identical rubber straps - carton isn't necessary - once both ends are connected there's plenty of tension to hold them to the tires - 1st time I did this the axle was on stands & tires deflated so the panel hangers rested against the rims - inflated tires for a dbl ck & alignment was same.

Might be the Missouri 12K GVW model

Rubber series if St louis makes it - SF was down 2-0 to the reds - - - - Cardinals lost to the tigers in 7 back in '68 - - SL seemed in control at home with Bob Gibson pitching well (so was Lolich) when Harry Caray put the whammy on them - - - - Commenting on a play by the Cards right fielder, Harry told Jack Buck there were 3 things certain in life; Death, Taxes & Curt Flood under a fly ball - - - - a few moments later with 2 men on & 2 out, Flood ran in on a line drive, couldn't recover & over his head - 2 runs scoring - - - - would've been #10 for Roger Maris - 8 with the Yanks & 1 the year before with the Cards - - - - - Maris retired after the '68 WS & Harry got run over by a cab in downtown SL. :cheers:

Sure - - - - How do you add a PDF file to a PM?

Just got an 89 XJ FSM on a CD - Looks to be ok - PDF files - Don't know how to put it on the forum - Some one tell how & I'll share - - - Here's the eBay listing http://www.ebay.com/itm/1989-Jeep-Cherokee-Shop-Service-Repair-Manual-CD-Engine-Drivetrain-Electrical-OE-/360469985178?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item53edaf779a&vxp=mtr

Best if U enjoy scrubbing 22LR lead from the bore - - - - Anyway, Think my previous was a little vague about cost - U can have ALL 3 - PPS, MG34/42 & a Clone for less $ than one S&W - - - - Also, the PPS pic doesn't show that it has a drum mag - U can find drum/snail mags for the MG too - If U can live without a round mag U can add an M1 kit & have all 4 for about the same $ as the S&W

Here's what U can use at a home depot; Their truck! - - - - It's a flat bed rental with a 3200 lb wt limit - no hitch - has ramps - home depot calls it a "Load N Go" - is supposed to be for customers to get their larger purchases home, BUT the typical poorly trained person doing the rental isn't going to ask if you're buying anything - If you are buying, fine - just make a FREE rental a condition of the purchase - Free rental will be automatic unless U ask at a busy time/day, like a Sat afternoon - - - - - Rental rates are $19 1st 75min - $69 all day - Store mgrs go PFG if U tell 'em it;s an all day so say nothing - the others could care less but still best to say nada about all day - Also, the truck is supposed to have a full tank of gas when it;s rented - HAH! - They have a 40 Gal tank & usually it's filled by the previous renter just enough to get the needle to register full - NOT THAT ANYONE'S GONNA CHECK IT - Odds are a different person will handle the return - IF you're told about being responsible for gas used & to have a receipt upon return just do as most and have the Mrs or someone behind U at the closest gas station on the return trip & put the fuel in that vehicle - give that receipt to whomever If that person should ask for it & that's a big IF. - - - - I was a THD tool rental Mgr & service tech at the end of my working career - Was an eye opener. :eek:

Consider selling one of the clocks?

Been meaning to reply & keep getting distracted/interupted/forgetfull - sorry - - Anyway you've probably found it - The thermister monitors evap temp-I goofed when I said cabin temp - - - You'll lose the charge changing the LPS maybe - Have your AC buddy look at your set up - - If your compressor has shut off valves then while system is running - - 1st - close high pressure valve - 2nd - after 2-3 min close suction/Low P valve - - All freon should now be in comp/condenser - - Now change LPS - Evac the lines/evap & then open comp valves - may/may not have to add freon - Your AC pall will understand - Really not difficult when U go at it & U seem to be doing pretty good with the troubleshooting.

Yep & near zero draw is important - Things like radio - clock & anything with memory are gonna show. :agree:

S&W MP15 - - Overpriced IMO - - But, if $s are no concern I'd choose the Colt M16--22 mostly for the historical connection - Pair it with the 1911-22 if you're into the Rambo thing - - - Just wanting military style? - Both a Mitchell Arms PPS50/22 & a Ruger 10-22 with MG34/42 kit can be had for less with $ left over for one of many M16-22 clones. - - - - - Got my FFL close to 40 yrs ago - Licensed as a 'Smith - Not Looking for/wanting new business. - - - - - Images - Colt - Mitchel - Ruger.

Cut through the top - - - Then install a sun roof - - - Win/Win :banana:

A guy goes to a psyciatrist & says "Doc, you gotta help me! I've had the song, SHE'S A LADY stuck in my head for weeks & it's driving me nuts" - - - "Hmmm", says the shrink, "I believe you have TJS - Tom Jones Syndrome" - - - "TJS?" the guy says "Never heard of it - Is it a rare disease?" - - "No" says the Doctor "IT'S NOT UNUSUAL"

Been doing this for 20yrs or so - mostly on Chrysler mini vans & Toyota 4x4s - - - - - What works for me: 1) The pads a pain - I don't remove - - Easy to damage if wands too close. 2) The car wash soaps do a fine job - I use compressed air before taking to the CW - also before I vac the interior, but that's just me - - - - Most CWs have holders for floor mats - much better than washing flat on the bay floor - - - - Oil/Grease stains can be tough if old since the carpet is plastic - - Nylon, Polyester,PVC or whatever - I've used plastic/fabric dye like Krylon on stubborn spots & then scuffed the area with a scotch pad, sprayed some more & scuffed & usually good results - - - Don't recall rust ever being a problem - - I'd try CLR or the like before the car wash cleaning - - - - - - Good Luck - Share the results.

Image Not Found This might be of use as a double check Image Not Found

FWIW - SPRINGFIELD! - GFG - Maybe my wife is right about early stages of CRS syndrome - - - - - - - - - Here's a bit from 88 Cherokee FSM - - - Looks identical to what was on my 87 - - - - - - -My canister had/has the blind terminal/port/boss as well - - Think I still have it will post a pic tomorrowImage Not Found

The c canister is basically a big filter - - - Input is a vent from the gas tank - Output to intake eventually - - - - - Plugging the out is OK, but leaving the vent open is asking for Murphys Law to strike ASAP - - - - Plugging the vent line can cause problems both obvious & sinister - - - - - - Capped the vent line on my Dodge Rampage a few back - - mistook it for a vac line - - - Short trips B&F to town & such no trouble - - Started losing power on 1st long trip when the f pump pulled enough gas from the tank & then started struggling against the vacuum created by the capped vent & no vent gas cap - - - Let off throttle to pull off road & tank vac was relieved through carb bowl vent - - - Twice more & then abort trip & back to home b4 things got worse - - - - -Quickly found the answer on a Dodge forum & didn't feel quite so dumb after seeing lots of others had done the same - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - FWIW is For What It's Worth - - - Usually a casual way of saying here's some unsolicited info that may be of use or here's my unasked for opinion or here 'tis or - - - - -Also a great song by Jefferson Airplane.

Frost is not good - Could be a number of probs, but frost would make these 2 my 1st to ck - Low on freon & faulty low P switch can cause evap freeze up - - - - - - The thermister monitors cab temps & cycles the compressor - Thermister is a pain to go after - Try to get a 91 FSM so you can follow the AC troubleshooting section - I Can send the 87 info - dunno if it's same for anything beyond/before 1987 - - - - - Be nice to your AC buddy.

AND? - - - - -If the blend air door is positioned-allowing flow mostly through the heater core then slightly cooler air until the engine comes up in temp & then warm - - - The plastic cable clips, both ends are known to break & cause probs on Chrysler blend air systems - PITA on some like FWD L body - - Wish I didn't know - - - - - - "Defrost/floor/vent are vacuum controlled" as is the HEATER CONTROL VALVE - - - Here's the AC operation chart from a 87 FSM - 91 info may be the same - 87 FSM was from pirate4x4 IIRC - Think it's on this site also - U should/might be able to find 91 FSM here or Pirate - Good luckImage Not Found

Year? - - - - - Engine? - - - - Transmission? FWIW - - -The charcoal cannister on my 87 4.0 AW4 has been removed - A regular type fuel filter was used to connect the 2 lines - Works fine.