skidoo_j

I went to schucks and bought a Hayden fan and it worked perfectly. The torqueflo sold by autozone has fins that are made differently which prevent the fan blade from seating on the mounting surface. Oh side note when I told schucks 97 grand cherokee they only showed the max cool and said nothing else was listed in their system. Made no sense as I'd looked it up online to ensure they had it in-stock before I went there and that's how I looked it up, regardless I then told them to look up a '94 cherokee 2.5l and he brought me the clutch and I fit the fan on the counter. So apparently you can use one from Hayden or Napa, I suggest pulling your fan blade and taking it in with you when you purchase the fan clutch so you can ensure they don't change the mold or change to a different supplier and just rebox it as everything else seems to be anymore.. As far as others have posted about the fan moving closer to the radiator etc it is not of concern the difference is in thousandths of inches. I installed the Hayden fan clutch, (comes with new lock washer) I stopped at the hardware store and picked up new bolts to replace the studs 5/16 x 24 and new bolts into the fan clutch 5/16x18. I didn't have to loosen the radiator doing it this way. I then tested the fan clutch and it does move alot of air, but My comparison is to a non-working fan clutch. It's not all that loud, about as loud as when the electric fan turns on and runs. During the test of the fan clutch though I couldn't get it hot enough for the electric fan to turn on. That's with the radiator covered with carpet pad and a towel to prevent air flow. Again I have no comparison if a stock working fan clutch would do the same, but I"m happy to have a new fan clutch. And if this does cool better which it should as it's to lock up to a higher percentage of motor rpm, and faster spin should be more cfm.

Alright I must have missed something... I pulled my fan clutch and fan off, removed the fan from the clutch and that's where I sit. The MJ fan blades will not fit on the ZJ fan clutch unless i flip it backwards... What am i doing wrong... I didnt read anywhere that people swapped the fan blades too. It's because of the increased diameter of the fan clutch. Am I the only one that's had this issue? The fan clutch i purchased was from autozone and is a torqueflo brand. The inside fins keep the mounting plate about an 1/8" off. The inside tips cannot be bent easily as there is a ridge mm's from where it would need to be bent. I don't want to remove any materials because it's balanced. So I'm taking it back to the store. Napa Doesn't have one in stock near me until monday, so I'm going to stop by schucks on the way to return/exchange and see if their hayden brand one is any different in manufacture then the torqueflo.

Day late and a dollar short. I picked one up already. I got the one from the zj. I sat them down on the counter and compared them as they had the oem replacement for the 89 and the one for the 97 grand. The only difference was the diameter of the clutch. The one for the zj looked better built. Are you sure it will end up less efficient, I don't care about longevity.

here's the stuff I was thinking of. http://www.readyseal.com/readyseal-advantage.html had the longest life when i was selling it at depot, and can be reapplied every few years with out striping

:hijack: Just finished a deck out back. Jeff (or anyone else with experience), what product have you found that works the best on a treated wood deck and lasts the longest? I've tried Thompson's and a few others and wasn't satisfied with the results. I'd like to do it once then forget about it. Such a product? Concrete :) I don't think there is any product that will last for ever that's a wood treatment for outside(not that HomeDepot or Ace sells). The longest I remember was 10 years... And that wasn't Thompson's. Rustoleum came out with a deck finish, but if i recall it's only an 8 year finish, and ends up looking like paint, more of a "restore". I always suggested people get one that didnt require stripping prior to reapplication and just reapply every 2-3 years. As some of them require stripping and etching before a re-application. it's also very critical that the wood is going to absorb the treatment. So the wood needs to be dry there's somthing they do with throwing water on it to decide if it's ready or will accept the sealer.

I'll be sure to not get that one then as you said it made no difference. Do you have the part numbers for the 97 98

Well I assume it's in a setup mode, however some older decks had limited display words and had lock out features. It could also have bad buttons or is in a default mode and needs reset. (often a little pin hole) First thing I would do is connect atleast two speakers and make sure no other wires could be crossed or shorted. Don't forget an antenna wire, sony's awhile ago required an antenna to be plugged in to turn on, not sure about pan find the model number and look up the manual if "set" still appears find out if it has an anti-theft code, or a reset button. My stock 98 VW had a turn on password from no power i found out as i changed the battery and a series of buttons have to be pressed to get a three digit number to show up luckily the number was written on the top of the stereo when i pulled it.

What brand / Model is this stereo you're adding? I made my own rear speaker brackets with some thin gauge sheet metal. here's a link to photos and measurements for a stock bracket. It fits behind the rear kick panels. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29058&p=292636&hilit=then+starting+from+the+rear+speaker+then+starting+from+the+#p292636

when comparing parts through autozone they do list the same fan clutch that fits the above and the 97 cherokee. And luckily my autozone has both in stock so i'm going to compare them side by side and decide.

Now I've gone to napaonline.com and part 272310 doesnt list it fits a zj. Here's there fitment list for that part Jeep Cherokee 2.5 L 150 CID L4 AMC Design 1994 - 2000 Jeep TJ 4.0 L 242 CID L6 1997 - 1999 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 L 242 CID L6 1991 - 1995 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 L 242 CID L6 1997 - 1999 Jeep YJ 4.0 L 242 CID L6 1991 - 1995 They show different parts for the zj for 97-97 they show a 272306 for a v8 and 272314 for the i6 no max cool or non max cool.

Thanks. I took that away from your message :) before you put the zj fan clutch was your original working? I found this blurb on xj talk http://www.xjtalk.com/showthread.php?t=1587 "The HD Fan clutch is supposed to turn 70% to 90% of the shaft speed, as opposed to the 60% to 70% of the OEM XJ fan clutch. The one NEGATIVE thing I can say about this is that the clutch SCREAMS past 2800 rpm." So according to that statistic depending on the manufacture it could be equal to stock or upto 30% faster... I'm thinking I'm going to just get which ever they have instock at the parts counter.

well i'm not having over heating issues, and am not running a modified engine. I think that just a functional fan clutch will be enough, but I had read multiple people saying to get this fan clutch from a zj and how it's better. But nobody has stated the why or how it's better even in other forums.

but what is the difference or benefit?

I usually pull up large with kitty litter. sweep it off. Then i'll mix a 50/50 dawn with water and make kind of a moat and let it sit on it. Then wash it off in a few hours. it's important for the water to be 1/2" thick on it kinda hard to accomplish, but works crazy well. after i did all this i sealed the concrete (etched it first) now its really just a quick wipe.

Yes the radio needs constant 12v and the 12v switched/accessory power. and a ground. some require an antenna to be connected aswell. most aftermarket radios will also have a Cont. wire don't connect this to anything. also an amp turn on wire, and an ant power wire. you won't connect that unless you have a power antenna. all other wires are usually speaker wires.

Okay so my fan clutch is bad. I've read in the FSM manual on how to test it. I have determined it's worth replacing. My question is what is the difference between the zj fan for the 97-98. Does it have a different temperature engagement or just a stronger clutch? I guess I'm trying to figure out how it's going to move more air if i'm using the same fan blades and the drive pulley is the same. I've read many people suggest it for use and to avoid the "extreme duty" but really what is the improvement from xj/mj vs zj fan clutch. Thanks in advance. Oh the test to determine if bad: Start truck. Block off air to radiator so it gets hot. Hold idle at 2400 rpm using a timing light.. when it gets to 190 degrees behind the radiator (they drill hole and insert a 8" long temp gauge i used a infrared gun) should take about 10 minutes and you should hear the fan engage and move more air. You can also use the timing light to note a difference in the rpm of the fan and there should be a significant difference.

hahahahaha...

any 4 door up to 1996 with out any modification. 97+ you have to change the strike and reuse your old hinges.

they're for a second license plate vanity light in a bumper. There are two sets of them one on passenger where the plate is intended to go with out a bumper, and the other is on the drivers side more centered.

Depends on desired tire size, lift, and the intensity of your wheeling. You can run 31" tires with a minimal lift w/ minimal off roading. 31" with 4" lift running aftermarket upper and lower control arms in the lift provides decent flex and lift, no trimming. People run upto 33" with out trimming depending on the lift design. with xj's so i assume same with mj much bigger tires than that and you're trimming wider for turning or taller for clearance even if you lift higher. The flip side is you could always go bigger tires and lift and then just adjust your bump stops so that there's no chance to catch a fender and then really only trim for width. All non-oem fender flares require triming; rusty's off road makes some, bushwacker, napierproducts makes some. Each brand has a little different amount to trim. But i've yet to find a set that i'm willing to spend $400 on. Lots of people will trim the front fender flat with the bottom of the head light bevel like the 97's. some do the same on the rear and cut the bed near the fold line. Best suggestion, browse around and find a picture of what you're wanting your's too look like lift wise and find out what they're running.

If autozone carries them they have a 30% off chassis parts coupon on facebook. You have to use it by tomorrow. http://www.facebook.com/autozone

I went through the same thing you've done. bought a set of used tires had issues with one, They "balanced it". and swore the rest were good. still had the issue so i started replacing parts. l replaced all steering joints, ball joints, u-joints, motor mount, trans mount. each was replaced and i'd still have the issue. then i replaced the trac bar. still issues. Keep in mind that between each change in part I would do an alignment, and if my issue happened i would have them check the balance assuming i threw a weight. Turns out they only do a centripetal balance. With bigger off road tires ones they've been beat a few times they need "road force" it's a type of balance that causes them to be out of round when the tire spins on the machine and it measure the force required to keep the arm at a distance from the wheel. it will also determine if your tire is out of round, separating (internally) and if your wheel is bent too. They wanted 20 per tire to test it so I yelled and got them to test one for free and it was double what was consider defective and only got worse as they re-rimed and turned the tire several times. But because i was honest and told them I didn't buy the tires new they wouldn't replace or help. So rather than testing the remaining 3 i swapped wheels/tires w/ a friend. Oh i also tried doing dynamic balancing with air soft bb's some where in my trials, it reduced my issue but was still there. I suggest swapping tires/wheels with someone for an hour of so and see if it keeps happening. It was the last thing i did and my problem went away. and i bought new tires... At best it will cost you a few beers while you and a friend swap tires. Run their good tires on your rig... This way you'll see if the problem is something else, also if the tires are a different size then your current tire/wheel combo run yours on his to see if the problem shows even the slightest. If their tires are smaller or offset is different the torque on the hubs and bearings would be different so you need to eliminate all possibles.

i bought mine of amazon.com. they were the cheapest price I found and free shipping. be sure they're comming from amazon or a solid sub-vendor of theirs..

when running oversized tires and off road yup. it's alot of weight wrenching on that thin metal.

If you were more local so you'd be helping probably. But to be honest i don't have any sort of connection on steel so i have about 325 in steel for front and rear, and all the wire and gas. my guess is i probably paid over 200 per bumper in materials by the time i account for the grinding wheels etc. Freight would probably be expensive too.